Thanks for the tip! Actually, all my roses are in pots, and I wondered if that was making it harder for the plants to stay fully hydrated. But I water every day, occasionally morning AND evening. Maybe the pots can be an advantage too. My backyard has no roses as it is dappled shade most of the day, but my neighbor from virginia was just commenting on how the New Orleans sun seems so much more intense that she sunburns more than twice as fast here. Maybe dappled shade here will be roughly equivalent to 3/4 direct sun most places. Worth a try, anyway. I had previously had roses in direct shade for all but 3-4 hours of sun per day depending on the season (at another home a few years ago), and they grew leggier with fewer blooms. But maybe the combination of dappled shade and only using it part of the year will make a positive difference. But I have still noticed some of my roses don't seem to mind the sauna at all. Linville, a white mini-flora, Winsome, a magenta mini, orange blend Hot Tamale, and red Miss Flippins are still doing quite well. Salute's dark red flowers are not lasting as long in this heat but still look good for a wile. Same for lavender Vista and yellow Bees Knees. But my pinks and my striped rose Pinstripe are all faded and runty of bloom. Do any medium to light pinks actually thrive in the heat?

I agree that the red is Chrysler Imperial. I had it, Mirandy, and Mr Lincoln in the same garden in WA. Mirandy is a different red, Mr Lincoln a different form. I think your last one is either Peace or Chicago Peace. Blossom color on both varies with temperature & acidity of soil. Even the spring & fall bloom colors will be different. I have a climbing Peace that never manages a spring bloom due to winter die-back but this year produced a fall bloom and the color was exactly like that of the rose in your picture. Sorry, no pix of it.

Jennifer —-(Spraying with Neem Oil and or and other mixtures to eradicate the insects organically could still harm those beneficial insects. Some people will just let those pest stay on the tree because they dont want to harm them. Its a difficlt choice to make for some and you need to understand that some bad infestations that might get out of hand and could cause your trees to become weak and allow other diseses to slowly kill your tree. i always try and let Mother Nature work on the right balance of the pest verses the beneficial insets to keep everything in check. But sometimes i will have to step in and use more than organic to combact the problem. its up to you to decide what is best for your tree. Laura Even those that eat leaves ___ Katydids 🌺

I am located in northern California, just south of the Bay in San Francisco. Our weather is usually mild & fairly consistent. Temps during the day have been 75-85 give or take. The temps do have a tendency to drop quite a bit come nightfall as the coastal fog starts coming inland bringing the temps down to the low 60s, at times in the upper 50s. My soIL has a PH of about 6-6.5. I used chicken manure, some sulfur to bring down the ph, it was at 9, so had to make adjustments. I also added peat moss, as my soIL is a bit on the clay side, it held water & wasnt the best at draining. Its much much better now. I initially had the soil tested & was given recommendations as to how to improve it, I made the corrections prior to planting. The strange color that is seen is not the soil but is mulch, gorilla hair, it's shredded redwood bark. It was what was recomended to me by my local nursery. A side note; All my other tomato plants that I planted at the same time are doing great, it's just the one. I water every 2-3 days dependent on the temperatures & according to the moisture levels that I test frequently. My soIL holds onto water a bit so I'm careful at being consistent. Initially I did have aphids but have eradicated them with use of compost tea which was really effective, there has been no sign of them in almost 2 weeks. There's been no sign of any other pest at all.