Hey Heather- Per $1 spent, ONE THIRD of it will be wasted as propellant! Main reason against "Spray-paint": >>> Your coat-thickness will be impossible to keep even. Acceptable spray-paint coats are too thin to be of much use on cabinets. It's just too big a job for spray-cans. 1 cabinet.........Yes. A whole kitchen...NO. The film-build of brush-on products is much thicker, relative to a "Krylon" coat! Plus...if you get a run on a spray-can-coat, you're screwed. Faron

Oooooh, I was hoping you folks would chime in! So to answer (and ask more questions)... to the west of the espresso nook is the living room; it is in fact our "living" room, with large TV, etc. Here is a wider shot of the first floor: The door north of the kitchen is the one we will use; it's just off of the driveway. We are on a corner property; friends tend to come to both front and side doors equally. Re: the windows, a bump-out wouldn't even be necessary because the walls are a foot thick (wished these stone walls insulated better, though!) I would *love* a prep sink but am reluctant to give up the counter and underneath storage space for it. Re: the hood and space around it, we could make it wider but would have to shift the range west a little so that the hood didn't overlap the window. We could also go with an under-cabinet hood and fill in the space adjacent to the west of it with a cabinet-would that look too cluttered? The 24" cabinet to the east of the freezer was intended for the trash. We had seen a four-triangular-bin arrangement for that space, enough to house plastic bags and recyclables. I also might make it narrower (18"?) and make the pullout on the other side of the freezer wider, ideally to have baskets for potatoes and such. I'm, um, petite (vertically challenged?), so it might bug me to have to walk around the island to clean. I like your idea to make the aisles a tad wider and the island a tad narrower. Currently, there are 9"-wide pullouts on the east and west ends of the island which could be narrowed (by how much?) Re: the fridge, I checked the Thermador (and Bosch) column at the store. The door can either open ~120 degrees, or one can stick a pin in the hinge to stop it at 90 degrees. The hinge opens upon itself, so that the only necessary extra clearance on the side is for the thickness of the panel, about .75 inch. We had planned to leave ~3 inches to play with around the fridge and DW, just in case. Now forgive me, but I'm a newbie with regard to super/lazy susans. How does the geometry work, exactly? For the base cabinet, would I need to give up the pullout to the left of the sink to fit in the susan? Could you possibly superimpose it on my diagram? The "CBNT" cabinet is only about 11" deep. If it's made too narrow or too short, it starts to lose its usefulness for storage. Could you please explain what "flat-framing" is? Not to further complicate this thread, but could you give me ideas for a color scheme? The floors will remain a natural stain 3"-wide plank oak floor throughout LR, DR, and K. Our dining table is a medium-tone wood. I tend to prefer simpler styles and neutral colors. The software for the diagram is AutoCAD, drawn by my architect. I had a copy of it but it expired--I haven't renewed it because it's pricey! Not hard to learn, though. Thanks! ...

If it was for my kitchen, I'd be cleaning, filling chips and lightly sanding the whole unit, and then priming it all before putting on paint. Painting cabinets is a pain, and I'd do that bit of extra work to give my end results the best chance of turning out good. BTW - the sanding is LIGHT - only meant to rough up the paint good to help get a better bond with the primer. I am so sick of painting cabinets - and I've still got a lot to do!

I actually only use 123 for wall priming only and will use the 046 Fresh Start for trim priming. The main reason you want to use what the manufacturer recommends is so that when something goes wrong, you can at least maintain that you did everything the way they recommended. Plus, don't forget they do a lot of testing and Advance is a special paint since it's a hybrid, I have dedicated lines for spraying oil and latex, since cleaning the sprayer completely is a real pain, plus as the others have said oil based primer is really not needed for this application.