Or, if that's a pantry to the left, set the whole thing back far enough for the doors to clear. BTW, you're not alone--a few years ago there was a thread posted by someone whose fridge wouldn't open against a longer stub wall. His solution was to cut out a recess between the studs, to allow the door handle to clear the wallboard. I don't recall if he completed the project or purchased another fridge.

You need a single door left hinge 33” fridge. Do you mean hinge on the right?

Thanks for all the input everyone. I'll start looking for a smaller refrigerator. Was really hoping to have ice/water on the outside, but its hard to find that on a single-hinge model. That corner is definitely an unfortunate design flaw in the home for sure.

This 30” fridge might work better. https://www.homedepot.com/p/LG-Electronics-21-8-cu-ft-French-Door-Refrigerator-with-External-Water-Dispenser-in-Stainless-Steel-LFDS22520S/304416120?mtc=Shopping-VF-F_D29A-G-D29A-29_13_REFRIGERATION-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-MajorAppl&cm_mmc=Shopping-VF-F_D29A-G-D29A-29_13_REFRIGERATION-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-MajorAppl-71700000059090936-58700005416012897-92700049340207775&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInNW87KOy6gIVkIbACh1bCwkLEAQYAiABEgJoHvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Wait, why can’t you change that corner as @mama goose_gw zn6OH recommends? It looks like a closet or pantry, why not replace it with cabinets?

The closet is unfortunately an HVAC and hot water heater utility closet.

Thank you LWO, for clarifying. That, and N Dobos' post, gives me an idea. If a 30" fridge is used, a narrow pull-out for canned goods could be built to fill in the gap and provide extra storage.

Is that fridge 36" wide? If so, why not just get a 33" wide one?

https://www.homedepot.com/b/Appliances-Refrigerators/33-Inch-Wide/N-5yc1vZc3piZ1z197ey

Thanks again guys. I'm going to order this refrigerator: https://www.sears.com/ge-gye18jslss-17.5-cu-ft-counter-depth-french/p-A018702688 It's 33" wide, counter depth, would have 3 extra inches of space on the left side (by the wall) and the handle would also clear that left wall when open.

Wouldn't a CD model put the fridge front deeper into the cavity, therefore the door wouldn't have as much clearance to open, as a full-depth model?

If you get a 33" top- or bottom-freezer model, you'll have to make sure that you can open the door(s) wide enough to be able to remove the shelves - generally wider than 90 degrees. Ideally, the hinges will be on the left but the wall may block the door from opening sufficiently wide in which case you'll have to reverse the door(s) so the hinges are on the right.

Good catch, mama goose! I looked at the specs and with doors open at 90 degrees, the total width goes from 32.75" to 40.5" meaning each handle is 3.875" which is more than the 3" the OP is gaining by going from a 36" width to a 33" width. Since the handle will hit the wall and stop with a counter depth model and would swing past the end of the wall with a regular depth model, he/she might've just created a BIGGER issue for themselves. It's going to be tight for sure!

I probably would've gone for a model like this:

https://www.sears.com/ge-appliances-gde25eskss-24.9-cu-ft-single-door/p-04607313000P

Thank you, shead, but looking more closely at the middle pic, of the fridge against the adjacent counter, I'm thinking the existing fridge might be a CD model. We've all been concentrating on the left side. ;)

Hi Ray: do you have enough room for a single door to open without hitting the island?

Thanks guys. Yes, the counter depth would push it back further (its a very tight corner), but based on my measurements, the wall cavity on the left would only extend 3 inches past the front of the refrigerator. Therefore, when the door swings open, the handle would swing past the edge of that wall. The handle would never touch the wall. And then there would be a 3" gap on the left side of the refrigerator as well to allow that hinge clearance. Just like the attached photo below, EXCEPT I would gain a 3" gap between the refrigerator and the left all - to allow that door to swing open. Does that make sense? Again, so grateful for all the help and insight. You guys rock.

And yes, the existing model (as photo'd) is a counter depth model. It's such a tight corner. I'm afraid a standard depth would stick out too far and not allow the oven to open. What a disaster!! Hahaha. I do think this model will be the winner: https://www.sears.com/ge-gye18jslss-17.5-cu-ft-counter-depth-french/p-A018702688 It will have the 3" gap on the left, it will end at the counter edge on the right side, and only have a 3" wall blocking the left side, but the handle will still clear the wall, given the extra gap for the hinge to swing open. The door would go past 90 degrees before touching the wall.

Perfect!

Awesome! Maybe put some clear bumpers on the wall because those doors generally swing to 125 degrees and you won't want your new door dinged by the wall or the wall chipped by the door :)

1. The GE GYE18JSLSS refrigerator is 33" wide.
2. The width of the left half of the refrigerator is 33" / 2 = 16-1/2"
3. The distance between the center-line of the refrigerator and the wall is 16-1/2" + 3" = 19-1/2"
4. Opening the refrigerator doors 90 degrees requires 40-1/2"
5. The handles are 2" deep.
6. Opening the left-hand door 90 degrees requires ( 40-1/2" / 2 ) - 2" = 18-1/4"
7. So you have only 19-1/2" - 18-1/4" = 1-1/4" inches between the wall and the left-hand door when the door is open 90 degrees. You may not be able to open the door wide enough -- beyond 90 degrees -- to adjust or remove the shelves.