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Appliances Design Dilemma Kitchens

peninsula slide in range, venting solutions

3 years ago

Hi! I installed a slide in range with what will be a 16 inch extend butcher block counter top on the other side. I have an exposed wood beam above the peninsula and was forgoing the vent, but after doing more research I wanted to see if we could install one over the range. I've read the pros and cons of downdraft vents, but the house has a crawl space and exterior wall would be 8 feet away. An island vent is also doable as its a single level house with access to attic space. The tricky part is the range is directly under the beam. I would love to get thoughts! Thanks!

The image above is an example of a possible solution.

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Comments (5)

PRO
Joseph Corlett, LLC
3 years ago
You might talk a tin knocker into making a custom hood.
wendy davis thanked Joseph Corlett, LLC
PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
3 years ago
The inspiration pic is working becuase the beam is not directly above the cooktop I think in your case this will need to be custom hood made exactly for your situation and could be expensive. I have a question why did you not take the cabinets to the ceiling in such a small space?You are fortunate in that you can go up but that beam will create some issues. and the counter is not deep enough to add a down draft.
wendy davis thanked Patricia Colwell Consulting
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Ahem. I believe flex aluminum ducting, as the above image appears to show, is prohibited for grease contaminated ducts. They have to be steel to resist fire penetration. Even if one chooses to ignore code, for safety's sake please routinely inspect and replace if build-up is detected. Alternatively, if the ducting were surrounded by steel in both cavities -- such as metal on all the cabinet surfaces -- it might be passible.
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Any decent sheet metal shop can bend up what you want. I stopped [purchasing the stainles splash plates to go behind stoves from the manufacturers years ago. The sheet metal shop I use can usually make one for no more than half the price. You might consider having a small shelf with three turned down edges and one turned over edge (folded back 180 degrees under the length). You could then attach to the back of the stove and a ledger strip on the wall to match the turned over edge height for support. If mounted so the top is just below the back if the stove it will not show much. just on each side from the counter up and from the back of the stove to the wall. I have had items like this made multiple times now. Don't forget to tell the shop the scratch pattern ('grain') direction for brushed stainless you want .. the long way looks best.
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Agree that we could be more useful with more info. But to me, what jumps out is that terrible wasted space marked "false corner cabinet"! I think you could do as Patricia suggests and move the range where you have the sink -- then get rid of the spice pull-out and you could probably fit another lazy susan or other corner cabinet in that corner. The peninsula would fit a sink and dishwasher, and your drawers, etc., could be on the range side. If you stick with a 30" sink base, you might even be able to get a trash pull-out over there -- no idea where your trash is now. With this space, I'd put a vented microwave over the stove, so that you free up more of your counter space. As long as you can get a short vent run, they do a decent job.
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Comments (12)
I think there are two separate "issues". The most critical is how the down draft and slide in are installed. I would suggest contacting someone at KA or purchasing from a very good appliance store. When I was shopping for appliances there were some appliance stores where there were professional salespeople who really knew the products and could offer genuine advice. The second issue which is one you didn't ask about is that at least on houzz there is general disdain for down drafts in lieu of a overhead hood. They don't work as well as an overhead vent because heat and steam travel up and so the down draft will have limited effectiveness. However it is all that is possible in some kitchens and I know people who have them who are reasonably satisfied with their performance. However they also don't tend to cook a lot of bacon or do deep fat frying and so they don't necessarily need the highest performing hood.
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kaseki
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
Guessing that the ceiling (attic floor) joists are transverse to the beam and are supported on it, one would have to tear into the ceiling and attic timber layout and build a box beam setup in the attic such that the transverse joists are hung from the appropriate member of the beam pair with Simpson hangers. Then there would be room within the box for your, say, 8-inch duct and no lonely beam in the kitchen. I think the box structure would have to extend from the beam support posts in the two walls depending on whether the joists are full width or separate on each side of the existing beam. I would use Microlam for the beams in the attic to improve stiffness, and a few cross ties between the two new beams would make the structure extremely resistant to bending moments.

In other words, the parts and materials you need exist, but installing them will be messy. Partial ceiling removal will be needed just to get the new beams into the attic. The wall posts may need to be uncovered at the top for any needed modifications. If the attic is served by a scuttle and not stairs, then a ceiling hole is the only practical way for a carpenter to operate.

You likely will be hanging the hood extension from the new beams, or wood tied to the new beams, so all the necessary requirements and architectural details need to be worked out before ravaging the area. A complete initial plan beats an on-going evolving plan.
wendy davis thanked kaseki
wdccruise
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
How about something like this? Install an island hood with a cutout in the chimney for the beam. The part of the chimney that extends to the ceiling and contains the duct would be on the kitchen side. The duct inside the chimney would be rectangular. The side of the chimney opposite the kitchen would be flush with the side of the beam.

-- amateur
wendy davis thanked wdccruise
elizabethskirk
last year
Hi Wendy

I am wondering what you ended up doing here as we are dealing with the same issue now. Thank you!

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