lehua13, Thank you for your response. Correct, the valves don't turn on when I try the manual override from the old (now currently installed) controller. I will fix up the solenoid connections and report back on that. As far as checking the voltage/amperage, should I be looking for a specific reading, or simply the presence or lack of a reading? I've never used a volt/amp meter, so I'm looking forward to learning something new. :) If I need to change the solenoids, are there generic solenoids for residential sprinkler systems or will I need to replace the faulty solenoids with the same model? When you say "common line", would that also be considered the master valve control line? On my controller, there are connections for the wires for each zone, and then there is a connection labeled "Master", which I believe is a white cable. Thanks again! Eric

not the foil bubble foil wrap! instead when you undertake this job in the crawlspace (not basement..crawlspace..right?) go armed with buckets of mastic and paint brushes to apply rolls of hardcast brand 1420 mastic tape R-8 ductwrap (fsk foil scrim kraft paper with fg insulation) fsk tape same material as ductwrap but tape fastner duct stapler & staples cordless drill & sheet metal screws duct strap switch unit to from fan on auto to on position to keep ducts dry so that materials will stick & dry. then when you finish the job..go back to auto fan setting. unwrap duct remove duct tape screw sections of duct to fittings 90 degree ells, supply boxes duct take offs to plenum mastic seal all joints & fittings mastic seal plenum connections to equipment use duct strap to support ducts. try to keep ducts 6" off ground. re-wrap with R-8 ductwrap staple seams with double row of staples use fsk tape on top of seams. staple tape. use duct wrap to externally insulate supply & return plenums. it will take several days, depending on size of house & amount of ducts. adding external insulation to supply plenum will solve condensation issues that arise from putting all this in humid crawlspace. take plastic to help you slide around in there and good lights to see to work by. foil bubble foil for ductwork is easy..but it doesn't work. best of luck.

If a ball valve has a problem it's usually at install. Either a defective ball valve or more likely the installer applied too much heat or took too long when soldering it in. The reason I recommend a three ball bypass along with the OEM bypass is that most dealers want to install just the OEM bypass and the redundancy of the additional three ball bypass, at it's modest cost during installation, is a good idea. With no Kinetico bypass what you have will serve you once the ball valves that leak are taken care of. Understand before you speak with the dealer that the water at the float valve is under system water pressure and all that is between correct operation and failure is the float. The tank drain elbow is provided so that if the float fails the overflow will be directed to a drain cause if it fails when no one is around it will be pumping water into the brine tank at house pressure. If there is no floor drain handy then it is common to drill a hole through an exterior wall and run a PE tube from the brine tank elbow through the wall to the outside. The elbow is a gravity drain and will not run water up. Many softeners are installed disregarding the brine tank drain and as long as the float never fails or leaks it's OK. I've seen quite a few where the float failed and there is substantial water damage. Do not let the dealer minimize the importance of the brine tank drain or say it can be ignored because you're betting a lot on that float mechanism... an awful lot. If something does happen and there is no line to drain there's a chance your homeowner's insurance won't cover the damage. With a washing machine I'd think that one of the Gap-It airgaps from airgap.com will do nicely. Pick the one that accommodates both the washer drain hose and the softener drain hose.

Will this be on City water or Well water? If on a well, you can slightly adjust the pressure switch higher. If on city water call the water department and ask what is the delivery pressure at the sight. You are not changing the elevation of the termination point so there would be no additional pressure loss due to elevation. The pressure loss you would be concerned about is the dynamic pressure loss due to resistance in the small diameter tubing to the icemaker. Keeping the tubing length from the filter to the icemaker to a minimum would help. The RO filter data sheet will tell you what the pressure loss is through the system. Hope That Helps, Dan Martyn