Frameless was why I wanted Barker. I thought long and hard about Ikea but the ability to get custom sizes pushed us over to Barker. Also have you compared the quality of things like hinges and drawer glides to be sure your pricing is apples to apples? The measuring by ourselves and getting the order right scared me as well. I won't know till they come if I got it right but what helped me was the following:. 1. Download and install the 30 day trial of Cabinet Vision that he talks about on his web site. You can then add his catalog of cabinets to the software to do your design. It wasn't too hard to learn and way less brain-dead than the Ikea planner and any of the other free ones I tried. This is real software, hence only the 30 day trial. 2. Draw it out in the software, then make a spreadsheet of all the cabinets, types, sizes, how many you need, etc. 3. Then get your spouse or another neutral party to go over the drawing and make sure it makes sense, that you have the right cabs in the right places. 4. Think and double check all the things you have learned here and from the Barker web site. Do you have at least 2" fillers on each wall? Do you have finished ends where you need them? Did you remember toe kick trim, molding etc. where you need them. 5. Check the spreadsheet against the drawing with another person, one looks at the software, one cross references the spreadsheet. 6. Take a break for a few days or a week. 7. Repeat steps 2-5 until you are comfortable. 8. Create an account on the barker website and put your items in the cart. It will save them, so don't order yet. 9. Print the contents of the cart. Double triple check the cart printout against your spreadsheet. Take a deep breath, put in your credit card number and submit the order. Tell yourself, well if one of them is wrong, we'll use it in the garage and order another one. Go have a drink and don't go over the order again :-) Last word, don't rush it, take your time. Hope that helps!

If your price is double, I have doubts if there is an apples to apples comparison happening. First, is the quote in the Full Access line? Omega Custom Framed cabinets will not be price comparable to Full Access. That is the fully custom division, with a price to match he possibilities. Second, did you just have them do a box to box comparison, via a list of components, or were they free to design the space with all of the needed side cover panels, molding pieces, and other required finishing touches? If they gave you a COMPLETE designed quote, and your Barker quote is lacking in the needed accessory parts, then that is not a true comparison. Accessory parts and pieces can easily add 30% to a quote from either company. Third, are you comparing the single color available finished cabinet to the multiple choices of standard finished cabinet? Not unfinished to finished. Or standard finish color to an upgraded finish color, like with a glaze or distressing. Comparing unfinished and unassembled to finished and assembled is no where near apples to apples. Although I no longer work with the line, I still find them an incredible value for someone who wants frameless cabinets but doesn't want the price of the Euro imports. Not to say that they are cheap, as no quality frameless line will be. Frameless is usually more expensive in the US than framed, simply because it is not readily available or "standard".

I don't have Barker cabinets (ours are DeWils), but they are cherry with no stain-just a clearcoat. They've been in since July 2010 and you can see how they've changed here - note the darker "stripe" in the middle between the drawers: Here they are closed, but they are getting a lot of light so it's a little deceiving: We also have a walnut china cabinet that had been built into the wall in the dining room. When we remodeled we removed that wall but were able to save the china cabinet (I love walnut). I had no idea the wood had lightened until we removed it. At the top inside edge you can see (hopefully) a small darker stripe where the doors cover the wood: HTH

@jdesign_gw and anyone else wanting to tackle hinge drilling affordable. While the 3-in-1 Blum drill is great, it's not diy affordable. One extra step, but not bad if you're not doing this everyday. I did this and painted 100+ doors in my house. For the 35mm bore hole. https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-Tool-Company-KHI-HINGE-Concealed/dp/B01JQ74FMQ/ref=asc_df_B01JQ74FMQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309763090755&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11433647920691291326&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026411&hvtargid=pla-423472884902&psc=1 For the 8mm alignment hole. This is used after drilling the 35mm hole. INSERTA Boring Template Blum 65059A https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/hinge-accessories-inserta-boring-template-0-type-inserta-boring-template.html Both can be used with a hand drill if desired. No adjusting out errors. That was taken out of context.