All check out a blog called Tomatoville. It has lots of advice. If you have mildew or mold spray with 5 ounces of bleach to 1 gallon of water at dusk or dawn. Then 5 days later spray copper mix, then 5 days later spray Daconil Mix. Keep this schedule and never spray during hot or sunny periods. You do this combined with using resistant varieties and you will not have a problem. This also works on most all vegetables. Note while sulfur will help tomatoes it is poison to cucurbits so be careful. BTW Bayer Advanced has a great concentrate product that you add to a early spring watering and it absorbs through the roots. If any insects eat the leaves (leaf miners, white fly, etc) they die but it does not harm bees or butterfly’s. https://m.lowes.com/pd/BAYER-ADVANCED-32-fl-oz-Fruit-Citrus-and-Vegetable-Insect-Control/3170999?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA--LawnGarden--OutdoorPesticide-_-3170999:BAYER_ADVANCED&CAWELAID=&kpid=3170999&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=2371&k_clickID=5e2496f1-b1ff-4a7a-94ae-12538511d6a1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj7-krLnL2gIVlrrACh2cQAn5EAQYASABEgJ1zPD_BwE On Tomatoville search for a thread called Mite Mix. There are some good creations for fighting spider mites.

Back To Fertilizing: In the past I have used MG blue water soluble (24-8-16) during the grwing time. I usually have used it at ~~ 1/2 strength but more often. Now I hear some arguing that perhaps a 3-1-2 ratio of NPK is too rich in N and too poor in P. So to cope with that I have bought a quart of Alaska fish fert with 0-10-10 ratio. A Gardener's Master Brew: I want to mix the MG 24-8-16 and Alaska 0-10-10 such that I get a 10-10-15 ratio. A little bit messing with the numbers I came up with a pretty good brew: === TAKE 7 PORTIONS OF 0-10-10 SOLUTION , ( made as recommended.) === TAKE 4 PORTIONS OF 24-8- 16 SOLUTION (made as recommended) What I get is pretty close to an equivalent of 10-10-14 (NPK).solution I have reduced N and increased P. Now my tomato plants should have no excuse for not to fruiting aplenty . LOL Of course, I make a much concentrated mix , such the I take just a cup of it for 2 gallons of watering can. An it lasts for a few application. The 1st app was delivered on 6/5/15. To further spice it up, I also add a pinch of Epsom salt and some calcium acetate as supplement. The best brew ever. hahaha Sey

I didn't think it was possible, but I have a Caspian Pink, grown from seed, that has overwhelmed and bent a TTC. It is growing on the site of last year's compost pile. I staked it when it went in the ground as well as pushing-in the cage around it. I removed the lower down- facing branches and pinched out a few suckers. Last week on a windy day I noticed the plant listing to one side. At first I thought the plant had just pushed off the top extension, but no, the legs are bent. I tried to support it by driving in poles around the rings to almost no effect. It's going over. I plan to park some old lawn furniture under it so it doesn't touch the ground while ripening its fruit. Maybe I shouldn't have sited it where compost was made. I think I should have pruned more aggressively. Do you guys push in the legs all the way to the first ring? Has this happened to anyone else? -Judy

Re: the nutrient issue-- there are folks who post here who grow hydro who may see your post, but I would also ask the hydroponics forum in the meantime. The pale leaves with still-green veins looks like an early nitrogen and/or mag deficiency, but hydroponics is a whole different deal than growing in soil, As for the lesions... It doesn't look like spray damage to me, and it doesn't look much like Septoria. It might be the start of the concentric/target pattern in other diseases like EB or target spot, and botrytis is also a possibility, especially considering the paleness of the lesions. I did spray with a fungacide to kill aphids. Is it possible the fungacide spray caused this? Aphids are not fungus. I guess some fungicides may be somewhat toxic to aphids, and the simple physical action of liquid being sprayed and running off is good at knocking back aphids because it washes them off. A lot of people use just plain water and squirt off the aphids with a vigorous spray. That approach tends to work best outdoors, though, where there are beneficial predators to clean up many of the straggler aphids. If you continue to have aphid problems, you'll need to get something like insecticidal soap to more directly and efficiently address the aphids. Fungicide is an inefficient way to kill insects if it is effective at all. EDIT: if you're using neem, it can work on aphids AND fungus. That said, you apparently needed a fungicide anyway, so it worked out for the best. Are the spots limited to just the leaves in the photo or has it spread to other places on the plant? If only on the leaves in the photo or just a few leaves here and there, I would document well with photos in case you need to refer to them later, prune off the affected foliage, and repeat fungicide application in a week or so. What fungicide are you using?