Electrician cut right through wood to run wiring?
Jim Bo
3 years ago
I hired a licensed electrician to install a microwave receptacle and run a wire. It seems the guy did a real hack job and he left me with some concerns. He cut three big holes in the dry wall and then cut right through three pieces of wood in the wall. I questioned him when he started cutting through the wood and he told me this wood is simply to hold the dry wall and not structural. This wall is on the exterior of the home and is load bearing. Can anyone confirm based on this image that this is okay? He also mentioned there are metal beams there but I certainly can't see any from the three large holes.
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Comments (16)
Jim Bo
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Wiring through walls and attic
Comments (11)cobraguy says: "I'll make another off subject suggestion...use CAT6. May as well be ready to take advantage of it's capabilities when you want." It wouldn't hurt. It doesn't cost much more. But do you need it? Will you ever need it? The thing is, most people aren't even fully utilizing CAT5e right now. How many people have gigabit ethernet in their home? CAT3 handles 10Mbits/sec. CAT5 handles 100Mbits/sec. CAT5e handles 1Gbits/sec. CAT6 is expected to handle 10GBits/sec, but probably won't. As a rule of thumb, divide the bits/sec by 10, and 75% of that is about the practical data transfer rate in bytes you can expect. YMMV. Using the appropriate network interfaces, that makes CAT3/10BT good for 750Kbytes sec, CAT5/100BT for 7.5Mbytes/sec, CAT5e/1GBT good for 75Mbytes/sec and CAT6/10GBT good for 750Mbytes/sec. If you're mainly using your home network for internet access then it really doesn't need to be any faster than your provider speed. Depending on your broadband provider, you could be getting 500-600Kbytes/sec right now. A 10BT network would be marginally sufficient, and a typical 100BT network is several times more than enough. Even if your computers are talking to each other, then 100BT is plenty and 1GBT is luxury. It'll be a long time before you see 10GBT in consumer hardware. cobraguy says: "Noffo...why not use a stud bay with house wiring? I've had more than one person tell me it won't cause a problem (if you're talking about noise on the line) Are they wrong?" Its a general rule. You probably wouldn't be able to detect a problem. But there could still be a problem. For example, checksum errors will cause packet retransmits. You'll have a loss in performance even though things will work. http://web.anixter.com/anixter/anixter.nsf/StandardsGuides/ElectromagneticInterference...See MoreNeed Help Sizing Wire to Run from Outdoor Submain to a Building
Comments (8)Ron, thanks for the dose of reality on pulling the wires. I sort of figure I'll end up digging out both ends and cutting the sweep L's out so I have a straight pull through. Any advice would on pulling it would be appreciated. I thought about offsetting the wires by about 12" to 14" to try to get through the L's. Not sure if that would help or not. Would electrical taping the wires every 3 to 5 foot help it pull easier or am I asking for trouble bundling the wire with electrical tape when pulling it?...See MoreRun plumbing through or under (toekick area) cabinets?
Comments (5)I suggest you look at articles on how to run pipes for an island sink or a peninsula sink. For island sinks you need to use special venting because you can't vent directly upward, but you may be able to work something different with your peninsula arrangement (e.g., run the vent horizontally within the cabinet and then up). A loop vent under the cabinet would be difficult if you are on a slab, but an air admittance valve would not be a problem. Running supply lines directly up under the sink should not be an issue. Any good plumber should have workable solutions, but use caution with a handyman-type, since most don't really understand the nuances of getting the venting to work right. Bruce...See MoreCan I run romex through buried conduit from garage to house?
Comments (27)I've only looked into flying feeders a bit, but I don't think that any kind of cable (including sunlight resistant UF) is approved for flying overhead by itself. It might be OK if you used an approved messenger cable to support it. Others may know more about that. I do know that it has to be at least 10' above ground at every point, 12' over the driveway. Keep in mind that your feeder will sag some in hot weather. Overhead wiring to an outbuilding used to be pretty common, especially on farms. Today I don't see any advantage to it. IMO, burial is better in every way, including appearance and lightning protection. Others may have different opinions. For a multiwire circuit, you need a double pole breaker, not two separate breakers. For 12" buried UF, it would have to be a 20 amp double pole GFI breaker. Make sure you're sitting down when you look at the price for it. OTOH, burial that shallow might mean that you could trench with a shovel and avoid trencher rental or contract expense. Trench to 24" and you don't need the GFI breaker, but you'll still need GFI protection in the garage. Don't forget to screen the backfill. Rocks will damage your cable as the ground shifts and heaves with frost. I say bite the bullet and use AWG 12 for your lighting circuit. It's not that much harder to work with....See More
mama goose_gw zn6OH
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoJim Bo
3 years agoJim Bo
3 years ago
ulisdone
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
lucky998877
3 years agochispa
3 years ago
millworkman
17 days agomalba2366
17 days agomillworkman
16 days ago
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