What is confusing about this post is that in the US FRT sheathing has no fire-resistance rating only a flame spread and smoke contribution classification and it does not improve the fire endurance of a fire-rated assembly such as a one-hour exterior wall to any significant extent. Why it would be specified or required inside of a wall assembly that might be exposed to a fire in an adjacent building is puzzling. The only time I have needed to use FRT wood framing was in a non-combustible multi-family structure and it would not have been acceptable in many others states. In a wood framed building typical US codes are concerned with limiting the temperature of a wall surface on the opposite side of a fire for a specific amount of time and for the assembly to still be intact after a hose stream test. If I were the architect I would not be concerned with FRT sheathing where not required but the construction of the wall to provide adequate fire protection which so far appears to be missing. The use of a wood fiber and concrete composite siding would have little or no effect on the time inhabitants or the fire service will have to do what they need to do. If the goal is to save property a sprinkler system should be installed. This post was edited by Renovator8 on Fri, Sep 19, 14 at 13:11

On the door frame or the actual door? The ones on the frame can be pulled out usually (unless they are stapled in, then it's not worth it). The ones on the door itself can probably not be removed. If you grab an end of it and pull a little, you should be able to tell if it can come out....it will have a stiff tongue on the backside that fits in the groove of the wood.

I am no expert about your HVAC system, but I will share my thoughts based on the information provided. The boiler is generating the heating BTUs. It is independent of the domestic hot water supply. Installing a bigger boiler is not going to improve your hot water flow in the winter. I suggest you ask the condo manager what can be done to get more hot water. The upper floor being 3 -5 degrees warmer in the summer than the lower floor is probably a duct issue. The duct work may not be providing enough air flow. Increasing the size to 2 or 2.5 ton is not a good solution. I think you are properly sized at 1.5 tons for 1250 sq feet in Rhode Island. I find it interesting that someone decided to install this hydronic system with a boiler and no hot water heater. What you have is not common and you may be limited in finding a replacement. Hot water boilers can have long lives if they are properly maintained. So from a cost point of view it makes sense to leave it and find a new air handler. But you could tear it all out and simplify it. Have any of the other condo owners replaced their HVAC systems? They would be a could source of information.

A commercial door/hardware vendor. They typically don't advertise to the public so you'll have to search for them.