I too vote stain. Just had our place re-stained (solid latex stain)after 15 years. I'd use a high quality or you may regret it. Latex stain will flake, but it doesn't peel like paint. Oil stain is different, you won't get either. However, I had oil on mine at one time, and I did get algae from where the sun doesn't hit on the siding (north side). Someone explained to me of why it happens with oil stain. If I wasn't so lazy, I could look it up! :) I'm not real crazy about the idea of power washing any wood. Real easy to force water into the fibers and destroy the wood. I don't believe paint will keep carpenter bees away. A relative has painted cedar, and there are bees galore. I spray my place down every year with an insecticide, but you have to be careful around flowers, don't want to kill those bees. I have no problem with carpenter bees.

I think I would like to split up the wall creating a top border at least 18" left as is. Then I'd like a reddish warmer color to the lower portion of the wall of bricks. (usual standard red brick color). I think it needs to be broken up with contrast colors. It will ground the home and bring some life to the neutrals. This will break up the height covering so much of the lower half of the home. Or..maybe BETTER yet.... .. remove 12" H in rows of brick, off the top and replace with a 'deeper depth' wood facing (compared to brick depth) .... to create a band of color above the lower brick. Maybe match the wood facing with the vinyl beige or a contrast color for the wood trim added ..... to create a larger space above the brick. Lower brick in a natural red brick color. The windows will not feel so cramped above the brick top edge if you match the beige vinyl color.. I think it will fool the eye. This will give you a needed dimension to a rather flat facade of the home. Adds some architecture and a visual interest.

Thanks RES2. I want the elegance of sawn shingles and not the rustic look of split shakes. My neighbors all have sawn shingles. I have ordered five samples, Nantucket grade, which I think is the best grade but I don’t know how it compares to the red/blue grading system. Have you used Malbec shingles on a project? What do you think of the durability of the finish on the factory-stained singles? I posted a photo of the house when its brown shingles, I don’t find it appealing at all. Since we’re biting the bullet and putting in all Bea windows, I think it makes sense to put up all new shingles. I need to know how they’re going to wrap the house for moisture shedding. The devil is on the details, it seems to me.

Remember that once it’s painted or stained, there’s no going back. Your house is beautiful and unique. As for making it “more modern,” it’s plenty modern as is! Was it designed by an architect? If I were you, I’d find out the history of the house just in case it was designed by someone notable in your area. If so, you would devalue it by making such a significant alteration to the architect’s design and vision. I am always of the opinion that if something is real, quality wood (as opposed to something like replaceable veneered plywood), then it’s worth letting the wood be wood. Refinishing it, rather than painting it, would bring out the beauty of the cedar. There are good products available nowadays for refinishing exterior wood. If the white is cement (and not stucco) then you would be painting a surface that is rarely seen in houses (white cement – which adds to the modern character of the house). The white contrasting with the wood emphasizes the angular design. Painting the cement gray will just make it plain old gray cement. I could go on and on, but I think you get my point. You have a unique house, with an interesting and attractive design – if you refinish the wood in its natural state, it will be even more stunning.