I don't know what the laws are where you are, but where I live you are not allowed to channel water to someone else's property. It must exit your own property to the street. I agree with Yardvaark. It sounds like you need to research where the city planners designed the water to go and find out why its not going there. Its not hard to find that info. The city should be able to give you the development plan for your subdivision. Our city worked with us to help us solve the problem we had. I was told that just after the subdivision was built some neighbors further up the hill from us had similar issues to you. The city had to come in and build a storm drain through at least 2 of the lots to solve the issue for them. If you were not having these issues before your neighbor built his pool and garage then it sounds like you need to bring the issue up and demand it be solved. If it had happened to us and the city and homeowner weren't helpful in solving the problem we'd be suing both of them for not addressing the issue of drainage and recouping the cost of having to pump all that water out. In my son's old neighborhood the one house on the corner that was the lowest and kept getting flooded year after year was finally purchased by the city, torn down and a small park sits there now. But it took a long time for that to happen. I don't know for a fact, but I suspect law suits were involved. - In the link below I show how we solved our problem. But we really didn't have much issue with neighbors' lots draining into ours it was that our lot wasn't graded correctly in the first place and the water had no outlet to exit our property. Good Luck and please report back what happens. Here is a link that might be useful: Back yard drainage

Our conditions in MI were prolly the same as yours, JaG. I had great container plantings right up 'til frost when the material was not too temperature sensitive, but noticed the same thing with my tomatoes & peppers - lots of late fruit that never ripened. I also use a lot of tropical perennials in the floral display containers, and they took a long time to take off this year. We had regular frosts 2 weeks beyond our last frost date, and (garden) soil temperatures remained well below 55* until after the first week of June. Sorry for the cross-talk, HBG. I hope I'm close enough to being on-topic. ;o) I had thought about the possibility of an N deficiency - especially if you were using fresh bark/small pieces, but that wouldn't explain why one plant did well & another didn't. Still, I would put genetics well down on the list of probable causes. Remember this for next year: "By habit now, I literally rip the bottom half of the roots off every plant I use in containers. I then remove a healthy additional portion of the soil they come in before transplanting or potting." For plantings with many different plants (mixed containers) I save the old soil and roots in a pile, and after the plants are situated as I like them in the container, I use it to pack around the remaining roots to secure the newly planted plants. It's usually a much more water retentive soil than what's below it and works well to help keep good amounts of moisture near the roots until the plants are established. It's an example of how being familiar with the rules of how water behaves in containers can allow you to break the rule (of not using dissimilar soils in the same container) and make it work to your advantage. ;o) It may make you shudder to think of it, but I nearly always remove all blooms & buds from the plants I am newly planting. It hastens establishment & allows the plant to build a strong root system quickly, which ends up paying dividends over the long haul. You may have to go bloomless for an extra week or so, but I've always found it to be well worth it in the end. Good luck!! Al

"If someone has recommended doing half the driveway only and not urged us to do the whole thing, is that another red flag?" In my mind, it's a red flag. Look at the flat cross-section profile of the front portion of the drive. Imagine the heaviest rainstorm you can--one that goes on for hours with a heavy downpour. As flow piles up, it's impossible that water will not infiltrate the building ... unless the entire cross-section slopes away from the building. But it doesn't. Pls8xx makes the point that contractors often propose that which is the easiest/most profitable. Unless their work is very well known to the client, that places their recommendations into question. I'm not saying that the recommendations are automatically not good ... just that they must be looked at with a suspicious eye. The recommendations of a landscape architect WHO IS ALSO A CONTRACTOR must be looked at in the same regard. And JUST because a person is an LA does not mean they are well qualified in all aspects of that work. (I was trained to design a highway, but I couldn't design one to save my life!) ... or that they don't have a profit motive ... or even a lazy streak. Astphard, as I mentioned your property is similar to one I once owned. So similar in fact that it's eery ... not just the narrow drive at the left, but even the paint and trim colors! We had a garage that was too small to be a real garage in the same position. We had a slope (a MUCH more substantial one!) coming straight at the back of the house. There was an existing concrete patio at the back of the house and fortunately, it was swaled and sloped to carry water toward the drive. I swaled the drive to allow the flow to continue. That everyone who has come out to look at the situation has advised installing a drain and piping makes me the lone dissenter. In spite of that fact, I cannot stress enough how much more trouble-free drainage at the surface of the ground is compared to that which is buried. Though I haven't seen a close-enough view of the back of the house yet to render an opinion, my gut reaction remains the same as it was earlier: this can probably be handled with surface grading and drainage for a much more trouble-free, long term solution. Especially, if you're going to be re-grading anyway. Marcinde, you'll see that nowhere am I advising the OP NOT to get a local solution. I'm only advising him on what he should be looking out for while doing it. As well, I agree with pls8xx ... if the proper information could be gathered, there's no reason a drainage/grading solution couldn't be done from afar. But no one here has offered to do one. What's happening here is helping someone to look out for their self.

I feel your pain, living in the same general area and surrounded by rice fields and mosquitoes. The soil is a thick red clay, gumbo in the wet season and like concrete in the summer. About 32" down is a layer of blue clay that is nearly impenetrable. I am not much of a gardener, although have tried my hand at some vegetables over the years without much success. Anything I plant in the ground will drown if I water it, and dry out if I don't. Bamboo seems to do well, and I do have some Callas that have managed to survive for several years without any intervention. There is some sort of bulb with white flowers that comes back every year. They are common around here, and can be seen delineating old homesteads as they sprout up in neat rows or rectangles this time of year. I also had some sort of onions volunteering in rows for several years. It's hard telling what the old-timers had planted around here, but I am sure they knew a lot more about it than I do. If you have any commercial rice drying operations nearby, you may be able to obtain rice hulls at no cost to use as an amendment to improve drainage. I tilled in a couple of pickup loads one year, and it helped, but would need to be done yearly, as the clay swallows everything you put into it.