I think your best bet would be to contact a window/door/glass company and get their advise. I've installed vinyl sliders where the fixed panel was friction fit with no clips or fasteners, but there are many types out there that install differently. You also might try looking up the mfgr and contact via their website or by phone.

366 glass is LowE3, and is the most efficient in blocking unwanted UV but letting in light. There are various grades of glass that anyone you deal with will be able to explain and apply to your needs. In vinyl products, I have seen the most service issues in patio doors. At one time I thought they were wonderful, but over the years I have seen so many vinyl doors that haven't lasted very long at all. You seem interested in a wood interior, though. My opinion is that vinyl and wood don't go together well - different expansion and contraction rates. But look around and see what you like, and get a good warranty. When you do a project like this on your home, you want to do it one time. You want to enjoy it and love it. You want it to last. While you don't need to get a gold plated patio door, you need to understand that if you shop price to just get by, you will end up with an inferior product and workmanship, and ultimately be unsatisfied. I encourage you to get a quality product and have it installed by someone that will do an excellent professional job. I encourage you to not buy from a big box store. They are notorious for rushed hack installations and mid-grade products. You don't want to spend a significant amount of money and end up wishing you had never done the project at all. Quality product, and an installation company that is committed to quality and 100% customer satisfaction, with warranty guarantees and a good service record.

True. Spacers are still needed to attach the Miele side screws as well as block a possible noise path. There is one other factor to consider with Miele, at least true for my Optima. The Optima was designed to have a one piece panel mounted to a thin frame that attaches to the door. If the panel is intended to simulate the other cabinets with doors and drawers, the fake drawer part and the fake door part of the panel will be connected by a fairly thin piece of wood (metal backed would be better). If this panel spends any time sitting around unmounted to the dishwasher, warping of the thin wood can occur, and some effort "training" it flat without breaking it will be needed.

Hi Ed, I posted on another thread that I'm currently helping a family member move, so I have even fewer working brain cells than normal (uh oh!) for the next week or so. But to do a quick post: I don't know of anyone who has fitted the HF frame with glass wall panels, but it seems to me (?) they should be able to sit in the side wall openings like the polycarbonate panels, and could possibly be secured with the Harbor Freight spring clips. I'm not sure if that would be secure enough fastening in itself or not (I haven't ever worked with glass. ) Possibly, if you used generous numbers of clips? The poly panels in the HF frame are only secured with clips on the sides, not at the top and the bottom of the panels. I'm guessing the the frames of the HF greenhouses are not as strongly built as those intended to be used with glass panels; the 4mm polycarbonate panels are extremely lightweight, so don't need the support that glass does. The HF aluminum seems pretty soft to us, compared with aluminum bar stock purchased locally. (Just a heads up.) I'm a big advocate of installing the poly panels with a screw or two in the middle of the panel, right into the aluminum frame, in addition to the supplied spring clips, but I know you can't do that with the glass panels. In the other thread you posted: "It would be more insulative behind the rocket stove and leave me with panels in case of damage or deterioration." I could be misunderstanding, but I think a single sheet of glass has a lower insulative value (greater heat loss potential) than even the rather stingy 4mm thickness of the Harbor Freight polycarbonate...according to this website's heat calculator: http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/heat-calc.shtml I do understand the desire, though, to save polycarbonate panels, to use for future replacement needs, as well as being able to use the materials you have on hand for your previously planned project. (Sure sorry your previous plan fell through!) Hopefully someone with experience in installing glass panels can provide some better input for you...I'm not much help in that department! Also, watch out for the problem that Randee faced in the other thread about Joining Two HFGHs. Beware the two different versions of the HF 10x12 greenhouse kits still being distributed by HF. They have two different model numbers, and the panel sizes are a bit different too, so you may want to shop the two models carefully to determine which one is a better fit for your existing glass panels, should you decide to try using glass on the north wall.