Mike, I guess nobody has the same plant who comes on here. I don't think I own it, but I have a similar species. Look at the left of the pic (posted somewhere else on here for the Ademium). This is a also a cane begonia, and they tend to get leggy. But if yours are are not growing to the full size before falling off, there is something wrong. Are you giving them any plant food? Some is good, but I don't feed every time. Also, I let it get pretty dry because it is hard to reach the pot to water it. Western exposure, 8 inch pot, canes about 30 inches tall.

All the dissolved solids flushed from the soil are in the effluent - you don't want them making their way back into the soil, else why bother to water correctly in the first place? This is especially true when using fertilizers that have NPK %s significantly different than the ratio at which nutrients are used because nutrient concentrations in the soil solution and effluent quickly become badly skewed and create problems related to EC/TDS and antagonisms. And now the 'extra holes' are good for gas exchange? That's a switch from improved drainage. If we focus on providing plants with media that supports very little perched water, gas exchange won't be a problem. Gas exchange issues become significantly more limiting as water retention increases and air porosity decreases. Plants sitting in puddles, no matter how many holes in the container, is not conducive to good gas exchange or a well oxygenated rhizosphere. Something I wrote about using hydrogen peroxide several years ago: H2O2 has an extra O atom (compared to H2O) in an unstable arrangement. It's the extra atom that makes it useful in horticultural applications. Generally, we're not concerned with aerobic forms of bacteria normally occurring in container media or on roots. Since H2O2 is an unstable molecule, it breaks down easily. When it does, a single O- atom and a molecule of water is released. This O- atom is extremely reactive and will quickly attach itself to either another O- atom forming stable O2, or attack the nearest organic molecule. Reduced O levels and high temperatures encourage both anaerobic bacteria and fungi. Many disease causing organisms and spores are killed by O, and the free O- H2O2 releases is very effective at this. Additionally, when plants growing in water-retentive media are treated with H2O2 it will break down and release O into the area around the roots. This helps stop the O from being depleted in the water filled air soil air spaces until air can get back into them. High O levels in the rhizosphere can encourage rapid healthy root growth and discourage unwanted bacteria/fungi. . I know H2O2 comes in several different strengths, the most common of which are 3% and 35% solutions. Least expensive is the 35% product which you dilute (to an approximate 3% solution) by mixing 1:11 with water. I have used the 3% solution at 1-½ to 2 tbsp per gallon as a cutting dip/soak, and have mixed it into irrigation water for plants in extremely water retentive soils at up to 3 tbsp per gallon, both with good results and nothing adverse apparent. H2O2 in high concentration is a powerful oxidant and quickly oxidizes almost anything it contacts, so be careful with it if you use it. A solution that is too strong can destroy any organic molecule it contacts. I’ve seen this chart posted several times as suggested strength solutions for use in watering plants. You may wish to start at a lower concentration , such as I’ve used, and experiment. TO THIS AMOUNT OF WATER ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 3% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE --OR-- ADD THIS AMOUNT OF 35% HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 1 cup, 3% - add 1-1/2 teaspoons … 35% - 7 to 10 drops 1 quart, 3% - add 2 tablespoons … 35% - 1/2 teaspoon 1 gallon, 3% - add 1/2 cup … 35% - 2 teaspoons 5 gallons, 3% - add 2-1/2 cups … 35% - 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon 10 gallons, 3% - add 5 cups … 35% - 6 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons 20 gallons, 3% - add 10 cups … 35% - 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Al

Thanks FrozeBudd. It is a big job moving everything outside for summer and back indoors for winter. My basement runneth over as I try to organize them into their cubby holes just to keep them alive. I still have about 20 extra large pots to move indoors before Monday (our first freeze). The plants get bigger, new plants come in faster than old ones check out, propagation makes things worse as space is limited, and I am another year older. UGH! This is from last December Confetti on left, Hugh McLaughlin on right. Not sure what is in the back. Amelia blooming, Cowardly Lion (striped rhizo), and it looks like Big Mac (glossy green) Helen Teupel (purple with silver edges) and some unknown silver curl. Flirty Girl (a seedling from Ozzie Johnson who is a member of our begonia club) Jack Black with a cluster of blooms My Special Angel (polka dot cane), Taconite (large dark green leaves), and U450 or U540 (seems like the tag was mislabeled) is the silver leaf with dark veins. rexes from Walmart or Lowe's (Exotic Angel nursery) Proud Mary various begonias I propagated for fun.

The node with the bud will not grow a new leaf but rather a new branch BUT only when the top growing point is removed. The nodes that had blooms will not grow any new branches so you are correct on this aspect. I would remove any leaves you do not like, trim slightly misshapen leaves if that is what you want to do. Usually starting new plants from cuttings is a way to rejuvenate the plant as new stems should come up from the ground from the mother plant. I often remove every leaf off a plant if the leaves are torn, infected, or just downright ugly - hydrangeas, begonias, and most recently a Chionanthus. The plant will respond with a new flush of growth if it wants to live and most plants want to continue living. My maculata seed grown plant had a massive outbreak of mildew this winter so a lot of leaf drop on their own, some branch die back, and I removed the worst of the leaves. I sprayed the entire plant twice during winter with Orchard Spray (a combo fungicide/pesticide but I use it mainly for mildew control). The plant now is outdoors for summer and starting to bloom. It is probably 3 feet tall now. PS - I wouldn't use a humidifier as this can help spread mildew. Here is one of my seed grown maculata plants with blooms just starting. I had to cut off a few dead branches due to mildew attack. Last September, a seed grown hybrid with maculata as the mother plant. Dec 30, 2019 in front a window in the basement.