Fixing a water damaged cabinet base underneath kitchen sink
HU-327779125
3 years ago
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Comments (6)
GN Builders L.L.C
3 years agoci_lantro
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Water Damage: Fixing? Service Master?
Comments (3)So sorry to hear of your experience, red_lover. I hope that you have been able to fully recover from the house fire and move on with your lives. I have Service Master out this morning. The price was reasonable for removal of some damaged wood and thorough cleaning of the area. Thankfully I live in a dry climate which seems to have helped. My insurance company will not cover the damage because it was not "sudden". (Even though the pipe break was accidental and I reported it immediately upon discovery, the leak was small enough that it had been going on for months.) Thank you for the feedback. Hopefully within a few weeks I can have this problem thoroughly resolved and report back with my experiences in the event others are in the same situation in the future....See MoreIkea butcherblock countertop, anyone had water damage near sink?
Comments (9)FWIW, Pugler, we used Waterlox, a much more durable and water-resistant finish, and, since the sink area is "temporary" counter, set the undermount on top for now. As it is, though, we should have put additional coats in the hole for the faucet. There is a thin discolored ring around its edge that would make me uneasy about what we'd have if we had undermounted the sink. Certainly, I doubt mineral oil would have cut it long term without exceptional care. FWIW, our really noticeable problem is where the soap dispenser rises directly from the wood. The soap chemicals from occasional drips and drops not wiped up (DH the big culprit) started penetrating the finish fairly early on. Note that this is mostly a maintenance problem and could have been avoided, or greatly minimized, with greater care, the kind someone using mineral oil might do as a matter of course. Plus, mineral oil can be reapplied very quickly and easily, unlike Waterlox, whose fumes require relocating for a couple days and can't be kept stored for touchups for any length of time. Other options would have been a metal base plate (yuck), or, better choice for us, waiting to build one in because we've always planned to wrap this high-maintenance area with stainless steel eventually anyway. Also BTW, Waterlox has been beautiful and durable on all our non-soap/water counter areas....See MoreHelp with sink base cabinet, please.....X-posted on Kitchen forum
Comments (12)Lass, when I lived for a year in a friend's old Riverhouse, the kitchen had a huge sink very similar to that one, with the faucet mounted on the wall beneath the window. I never took a picture of that side of the kitchen showing those details, I don't think. But, I'll look. Seems I did snap a pic of a parrot sitting on the faucet....... That side of the kitchen was mostly the sink and had base cabs at either side. The middle span was cabinet also, but had 2 doors opening to reveal the plumbing and just "stuff" for cleaning kept down there. I could ask the friend to take a picture of it for me. It was a really heavy sink, enamel over cast iron. What MamaGoose says makes good sense. Even a tension rod in the middle would hold a curtain across the open area between two base cabs supporting it....just don't make the span too open....See MoreHow to seal Ikea Akurum cabinet doors to prevent water damage?
Comments (11)Depending on your kitchen's style, you could install the Blankett or similar handle. They span the width of the door or drawer fronts. Or you could look for any stainless steel corner profile, cut it to the desired length, sand and smooth the edges and attach it from the inside of the cab. Blankett handle: Link to images of stainless corner profiles: https://www.google.com/search?q=stainless+steel+corner+profile&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi6nrzatPnYAhXrxYMKHdDRBMsQ_AUICygC&biw=1364&bih=604...See MoreJoseph Corlett, LLC
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agowoodbutcher_ca
3 years agoci_lantro
3 years ago
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