I know this may not be practical for most, but here is what I did for snails: My property use to be very heavily infested with snails. Huge snails. They took a toll on some of the plants. Two years ago here in San Diego, we had fairly frequent and spaced out light showers. I live on a cul-de-sac and own the two empty lots next door. I also live on a hillside. Consequently, I have a lot of succulent groundcover. Everytime it sprinkled, the snails would come out, so I'd just go out and pick 'em and smash them in the middle of the street. I did this for about three months--everytime it rained or sprinkled. The street looked pretty yucky. Well, that was two years ago and now I ALMOST NEVER see a snail. Once in a blue moon I'll see a small one and I'll pick it, but that's about it. -Ron-

tmunson: No idea if they will come back but since one is trying you have a shot. The NH4 has killed the new water absorbing roots. So it's all a matter of whether the plants can put out new roots.

Insect Control: Soaps and Detergents by W.S. Cranshaw 1 Quick Facts... Soaps can be used to control a wide range of plant pests. Small, soft-bodied arthropods such as aphids, mealybugs, psyllids and spider mites are most susceptible to soaps. The ease of use, safety and selective action of soaps appeal to many people. Limitations of soaps include the need to wet the insect during application, absence of any residual effectiveness, and potential to damage some plants. Soaps or detergents used for control of insects are applied as dilute sprays, mixed with water to produce a concentration of about 2 percent. Soaps have been used to control insects for more than 200 years. Recently, there has been increased interest in and use of these products. This change is due to a better understanding of how to use soaps most effectively and a desire to try insecticides that are easier and safer to use than many currently available alternatives. How soaps and detergents kill insects is still poorly understood. In most cases, control results from disruption of the cell membranes of the insect. Soaps and detergents may also remove the protective waxes that cover the insect, causing death through excess loss of water. Soap-Detergent Sprays Soaps and detergents act strictly as contact insecticides, with no residual effect. To be effective, sprays must be applied directly to and thoroughly cover the insect. Several insecticidal soaps are distributed for control of insects and mites. Available under a variety of trade names, the active ingredient of all is potassium salt of fatty acids. Soaps are chemically similar to liquid hand soaps. However, there are many features of commercial insecticidal soap products that distinguish them from the dishwashing liquids or soaps that are sometimes substituted. Insecticidal soaps sold for control of insects: are selected to control insects; are selected to minimize potential plant injury; and are of consistent manufacture. Some household soaps and detergents also make effective insecticides. In particular, certain brands of hand soaps and liquid dishwashing detergents can be effective for this purpose. They are also substantially less expensive. However, there is increased risk of plant injury with these products. They are not designed for use on plants. Dry dish soaps and all clothes-washing detergents are too harsh to be used on plants. Also, many soaps and detergents are poor insecticides. Identifying safe and effective soap-detergent combinations for insect control requires experimentation. Regardless of what product is used, soap-detergent sprays are always applied diluted with water, typically at a concentration of around 2 to 3 percent (Table 1). Susceptible Insects Most research with insecticidal soaps and detergents has involved control of plant pests. In general, these sprays are effective against most small, soft-bodied arthropods, such as aphids, young scales, whiteflies, psyllids, mealybugs, and spider mites. Larger insects, such as caterpillars, sawflies and beetle larvae, generally are immune to soap sprays. However, a few large insects, including boxelder bugs and Japanese beetles, are susceptible. Insecticidal soaps are considered selective insecticides because of their minimal adverse effects on other organisms. Lady beetles, green lacewings, pollinating bees and most other beneficial insects are not very susceptible to soap sprays. Predatory mites, often important in control of spider mites, are an exception: a beneficial group of organisms easily killed by soaps. Application One of the most serious potential drawbacks to the use of soap-detergent sprays is their potential to cause plant injury -- their phytotoxicity. Certain plants are sensitive to these sprays and may be seriously injured. For example, most commercial insecticidal soaps list plants such as hawthorn, sweet pea, cherries and plum as being sensitive to soaps. Portulaca and certain tomato varieties also are sometimes damaged by insecticidal soaps. The risk of plant damage is greater with homemade preparations of household soaps or detergents. When in doubt, test soap-detergent sprays for phytotoxicity problems on a small area a day or two before an extensive area is treated. Plant injury can be reduced by using sprays that are diluted more than the 2 to 3 percent suggested on label instructions. To reduce leaf injury, wash plants within a couple of hours after the application. Limiting the number of soap applications can also be important, as leaf damage can accumulate with repeated exposure. However, because of the short residual action, repeat applications may be needed at relatively short intervals (four to seven days) to control certain pests, such as spider mites and scale crawlers. Also, application must be thorough and completely wet the pest. This usually means spraying undersides of leaves and other protected sites. Insects that cannot be completely wetted, such as aphids within curled leaves, will not be controlled. Environmental factors also can affect use of soaps. In particular, soaps (but not synthetic detergents) are affected by the presence of minerals found in hard water, which results in chemical changes producing insoluble soaps (soap scum). Control decreases if hard-water sources are used. Insecticidal soaps may also be more effective if drying is not overly rapid, such as early or late in the day. Soaps and detergents can offer a relatively safe and easy means to control many insect pests. As with all pesticides, however, there are limitations and hazards associated with their use. Understand these limitations, and carefully follow all label instructions. Table 1: Approximate mix to produce various dilute soap sprays. Percent dilution desired Approximate amount of soap to add to water to produce: Gallon Quart Pint 1 2 1/2 Tbsp (-) 2 tsp (+) 1 tsp (+) 2 5 Tbsp (-) 4 tsp (+) 2 tsp (+) 3 8 Tbsp (+) 2 Tbsp (+) 1 Tbsp (+) 4 10 Tbsp (-) 2 1/2 Tbsp (+) 4 tsp (+) (+) Will produce a solution of slightly higher concentration than indicated. (-) Will produce a solution of slightly lower concentration than indicated. 1Colorado State University Extension entomologist and professor, bioagricultural sciences and pest management. 12/96. Reviewed 3/08. Colorado State University, U.S. Department of Agriculture and Colorado counties cooperating. CSU Extension programs are available to all without discrimination. No endorsement of products mentioned is intended nor is criticism implied of products not mentioned. Go to top of this page. Updated Friday, August 03, 2012

Oakleafs are notorious for needing excellent drainage, bagsmom. They will tolerate wet conditions up to a point and then will quickly succumb to root rot within a week, more or less. If your hydrangea is now dead-looking stems, I am not sure how to tell if that was the case. Consider the suggestion a possibility. I had this problem two years ago when North Texas had a lot of period from March through June. Lost one Alice Hydrangea even though it was protected under a tree, had plenty of mulch to absorb moisture and the sprinkler system was not turned on until July. My soil, however, is part clay and clay absorbs water and releases it slowly. Lack of water can also result in browning of leaves as well. If your watering system was not delivering enough moisture then this would be a problem. If your watering system was delivering too much water too often, then that too would be a problem as the roots could be sitting on wet soil for too long and develop root rot. I am talking about watering often here though, say daily or almost daily. If a finger inserted into the soil feels wet at a depth of 4" then you should not water. You should aim for soil that feels moist instead and should water when it feels almost dry or dry. The symptoms for root rot resemble those of lack of water because the plant leaves are not getting enough moisture from rotted roots. The plant may wilt and/or the leaves eventually brown out from the leaf edges. No matter how much extra water you provide, the plants does not recuperate. A "normal" wilting episode (assuming the soil is moist) would be over between sun down & the next morning. Controlling soil moisture might help on a few plants with root rot but many do not make it. I do not think the Bayer did anything but, in the future, I would recommend against using it at times like this. Plants that are already stressed by transplant shock like yours or by plant injuries, drought or too much water, etc will recover faster than when they are not given fertilizers. Fertilizers, especially those with a high nitrogen content, will force them to grow green at times when the energy may be well spent doing something else like developing a healthy root system or fighting off an infection. Since hydrangeas require very little fertilizer, apply 1 cup of cottonseed meal or manure in May and July to a new shrub (more on older hydrangeas) and you are good to go for the whole year. A slow-release chemical fertilizer can also be used (ck the label directions). Feel free to add coffee grounds during the growth season if you want but, stop all fertilizing in August-September in order to force the plant to go dormant and to protect tender new growth from early frosts. I left my sticks on the ground until the next spring and pulled the plant around mid-to-late May. Hydrangeas -that are alive- should leaf out by that time in the South (a month later in the North). I did not replant another oakleaf there. Luis