The Delta in2ition shower heads offer the best of both worlds. When both the handheld and the ring are flowing, it's a big wide pattern like a rainfall head, yet you can switch either of them off for mucho flexibility. We've been using the in2ition heads for about four years now, and love 'em. Perhaps they aren't "sexy"-looking enough for some, but it's hard to beat their utility and performance.

Very sorry to hear that. Well, you have a bigger issue to concern yourself with now. Repairing pan and then connecting old/new waterproofing together with proper 2" laps and corner details into the walls at change of plane . likely Impossible to do it proper at this point. You will end up with a compromised patch repair. that will not meet new install approvals and may plague you for the longterm.. Id call schluter for a field rep visit to give yourself peace of mind in the future and an 3rd party industry set of eyes on youre repair.. My free industry advice to you if it helps..-best

I'd rather go vertical than across three walls and through two framed corners. If this is soldered copper and a remodel, soldering unions in a 3-stud framed corner can be a pain. It can be easier if the framing is open in new construction, or if the walls are lightweight construction, a partition end stud and drywall clips. If this is hard pipe, my overall goal would be to minimize the number of turns the plumbing has to make from the supply valve to the shower head. Secondary would be the shortest run of tubing. My own shower, I went across the ceiling. That gave me the fewest turns and shortest route.

I agree w above comment! Your photo from here thru this laptop shows tell tale signs of preslope/grading issues. Your drain tells me you likely have a weep hole type build or possibly a divot method.(doubtful of the latter) this means there is likely a pan liner that requires a PERFECT preslope underneath it. What does the detailed SCOPE in your contract say about flood testing ? whats it say about Tile standards to be met and followed? If you come to find no Flood test was approved by the plumbing inspector via your permits.? Best course of action ? Your best bet is to hire a seperate /different licensed plumber who has the proper flood insurance. Have them install an INFLATEABLE test plug down BELOW the clamp drain riser and fill it up to the curb and leave it (While closely monitoring it.) if after 48 hrs the water level has not dropped. Id say its then up to you to decide to live with it or youll know quickly if it all needs to be torn out. If no leaks you should continue to see these pools repeat in the same area after each use ILLSAY IT AGAIN Homeowners if you dont want to be a statistic get yourself an enforceable contract replete with a Detailed TILE scope. In that scope make sure it references : "All MFG instructions, TCNA, ANSI., IRC, UPC IAMPO standards are to be met and followed." get A guarantee in writing and youll have recourse when things fail. This will send 75% of the prospectable hires running out your door and YES it will cost more than the half price crew. If yoou hired a GC you DOUBLE DANG sure want to get that in writing as MANY NOT ALL GC's sub out based on price and gamble with your money. You want the tile crew that Puts the TCNA method number they intend to employ into your estimate. The crew that starts the conversation with the TCNA book in hand. It is always best to hire a Tile contractor thats qualified directly if you have any doubt of your GC.