Best soil amendment for heavy clay soil?
dojutsu
3 years ago
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mindshift
3 years agoEmbothrium
3 years agoRelated Discussions
To amend or not to amend? Clay soil...
Comments (22)"It seems that it is highly recommended to plant peach trees in raised beds from the experience on this board. Does anyone have a good link or more detailed directions as far as how to do that? What type of soil do I need? How deep do I dig the hole? How high should the bed be?" For my peach trees I use mounds and terraces. It doesn't seem to make a difference how tall the mound is. Some of my mounds are 1' tall, others started out 4' tall (before settling). The peach trees do about the same either way. Some people enclose their raised beds with a raised border of some kind. I think that's fine too. I don't think it makes much difference what soil you use for the raised beds/mounds. Several years ago, I installed drain tiles in the orchard area (The drainage was horrid and I was tired of losing peach trees.) In places we had to excavate to a depth of 4' to install the tile. What we dug out was pure clay. I used this material for some of the mounds. The peach trees have done fine in the clay mounds. Per the above posts, I would only use mounds if the drainage is poor. But since you mention puddling, I strongly suspect you could benefit from raised beds/mounds. Mounds not only provide good drainage, they also loosen the dirt so there is minimal resistance for the roots to spread. Mulching on top keeps the soil moist longer into the growing season, further encouraging root growth. It's hard for peaches not to succeed when they have moist (but not overly wet) loose soil with no weed competition and plenty of sunshine. Here's a picture that's a couple years old. You can see some tall and shorter mounds. Some of the older trees aren't in mounds. The drainage tile helped them. Here's a pic of some terraces I built last fall for planting peaches this spring. By the way, I don't bother with mounds for more water tolerant trees like apple, pear and plum, unless the drainage is really bad....See MoreBahia- soil amendments, clay tolerant succulents?
Comments (8)Aloe thraskii might be a bit too cold sensitive for El Sobrante, as parts of your town get significantly colder than Berkeley/Oakland, and this species isn't amongst the most freeze tolerant of the tree aloes; better to stick with Aloe marlothii or A. ferox or A. arborescens. In general, it is always better to mound the soil if you have this option to give better drainage with heavy clay soils on a flat lot. Just creating mounds that are 12 to 18 inches above the flat parts is often all that is required to improve your drainage. There are lots of succulents that will tolerate straight clay soils if they slope to drain, but adding and mixing in at least 2 to 6 inches of soil amendments won't hurt, and American Soil Products multi-purpose or general landscape mixes work well. If you have your heart set on species that are more demanding, then add some perlite and pumice to the mix at individual planting holes, and make sure more sensitive plants are planted higher up on mounds rather than in low points. Full sun during winter and good air exposure also help to make plants more tolerant of winter wet and clay soils. In general, succulents that come from winter rainfall habitats will be more broadly tolerant of poor soil conditions, and your best clues will be observing which succulents do well in your neighborhood....See MoreBest choices for alkaline, heavy clay soil and dry climate?
Comments (8)I have the same conditions only a little further north than you. I would never let the Hoopsii be the only blue spruce. Scatter some others around and tie the color theme together. I have 9 different cultivars of P. pungens in my yard and it isn't much bigger than yours. I have a 1/2 acre lot but that includes the horse barn and corral out back. Use one or two globes and perhaps a columnar blue spruce. I love 'St. Mary's Broom'. I have Picea pungens 'The Blues' and love it's weeping form. It will never get too big. I have a pendula out front and a little P. pungens 'Blue Pearl' in the same bed echoing the color theme as an accent. There are also a number of cultivars of P. omorika that won't get too big for your yard. Check out Coenosium Gardens web site for a wealth of ideas for the smaller yard. Much of what you find there will not be found locally though. You should be able to find what I mentioned above except perhaps 'Blue Pearl' or 'The Blues' Picea abies has an almost endless range of sizes and forms. I too covet the Skylands but have been afraid to give it a try with our dry heat in the summer and burning sun. If you try it I would certainly put it in an area where it isn't going to get full sun at least while getting established. I have put a P. abies 'Gold Drift' under a globe willow that will eventually come out -in hopes that it can get established in the shade and then show off it's gold color after the willow comes out. There are also some golden junipers that would work for you. The northern Utah nursery that I have found to have the best selection of the less common conifers is Alpine Gardens in Perry (south of Brigham City) but that is also a little hit and miss....See MoreHeavy Clay Soil Amendment - Garden Soil?
Comments (16)I guess if you purport to speak with more authority on the subject than those who spend all their time researching and studying these issues, Embothrium, then feel free to call that false. OTOH, I tend to give more weight to opinions of actual horticultural scientists : "Let's say you have incorporated the recommended 25-50% organic matter to your backfill. (Remember that an ideal soil contains 5% organic matter by volume.) The initial results are positive; roots grow vigorously in this ideal environment as long as irrigation is provided. But what happens when these roots encounter the interface between the planting hole and the native soil? Native soil contains fewer available nutrients, is more finely textured and is less aerated. Roots react much in the same way as they do in containers: they circle the edge of the interface and grow back into that more hospitable environment of the planting hole. The roots do not establish in the native soil, eventually resulting in reduced growth rates and hazard status as crown growth exceeds root ball diameter" The Myth of Soil Amendments, Linda Chalker-Scott, PhD...See MoreS Rodriguez
2 years agodavidrt28 (zone 7)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoUser
2 years ago
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davidrt28 (zone 7)