Turning a kitchen from OK to FABULOUS
4 years ago
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- 4 years ago
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Comments (28)Ok, we're done for the day. We're all exhausted! My uncle left this morning to head home and the four of us finished up. Took about 6 hours to cut out and polish the sink cutout, but the guys persevered yesterday and even cut out and polished all the backsplash pieces. Today we finished all the plumbing for the sink, dishwasher and refrigerator, put in a new door, put up the crown, scribe, base and casing (not quite done, we have to figure out a different base for around the cabinets). We also finished installing the appliances, the undercabinet lights and cleaned up a bit. Still to do: finish the base, putty and caulk all the trim, paint trim and the door and install the jewelry (aka hardware). Little stuff, nothing huge. Now I have to get the house cleaned up and back in order! But for now, sitting down feels really good. Oh, and while we were at it, we replaced the (horrid) laminate countertop in the bathroom and put in a new sink and faucet. We'll have to do the rest of the bathroom at some point, but this is a good start!...See MoreWant to gel stain kitchen cabs. Look ok?
Comments (89)Technicolor - After reading your original post again, I never thought about porch and floor paint but that would make sense. What brand (Ace?) were you talking about? Oh, and wouldn't you still need to sand - at least scuff sand and use a (bonding) primer like Zinsser first? *NOTE - Just a general heads up, I don't recommend anyone using SW Porch and Floor paint. Total crap. I supposedly got a 'bad batch' (it never got past tacky and I went above and beyond to do that job right.) and had to redo my stair project which was MISERABLE. They gave me a new gallon of paint and threw in some tape and sandpaper but that still didn't fix my stairs. I was told they were discontinuing the product but I believe it's still available. Your kitchen sounds really pretty. And I like red - have a bathroom painted BM Moroccan Red. You think bb around my DR side too? "My senses tell me it is the dining room that is making this so difficult for you. I know you don't want to change it, but the styles are clashing regardless of color." I almost hate to ask, but can you be more specific? I look at it everyday and I'm sure can't 'see' it like someone else. I'm assuming it's too formal/stuffy for the kitchen side? I've been trying to get away from that a bit, tho the rug didn't bother me enough to make it a replacing priority right now. I figured I'd have a better chance of stumbling across art I liked first. Even if I had more money, I don't know what I'd pick or replace first. Ha, it's a little tough to change anything if you don't have a clear game plan. It's interesting, in the past when I had a project, I'd throw ideas out and go back and forth, back and forth with what I wanted to do and I always have to WAIT, sometimes months, until I figure out what's going to work for me. I wish I knew how to speed the process up. I'll post a photo with the new hardware on when it comes....See MoreIs this kitchen/breakfast room floor plan ok?
Comments (17)" is the breakfast room REALLY too small to eat in? " On the eating area ... check out the picture and the description for Rule #8 ... http://starcraftcustombuilders.com/kitchen.design.rules.htm Basically, Here are dining table clearance rules ... Allow 24" for a seated diner with no obstruction (wall, furniture, counter, etc) behind. Allow 32" from table edge to wall or obstruction for a seated diner with NO TRAFFIC passing behind diner. Allow minimum 36" to allow someone to slide behind / edge past a seated diner when traffic passes behind a seated diner between the table and an obstruction, Or, a minimum 42-44" to allow traffic to walk behind a seated diner. Allow 60" from table edge for a wheelchair to pass behind. To allow for a dining table right next to an island or peninsula with barstools, add approx 18", assuming a fairly modest sized barstool. So ... you would need minimum 42 + 18 = 60" between the edge of the dining table and the counter edge of the island or peninsula to allow traffic to walk in between (not "slide past"). Understand, these are minimums and depend on the size of the furniture, a couple more inches could feel more spacious. We have about 36" (maybe an inch or so more than that, no more than 38" for sure) between the table edge and the wall for a 13 foot long dining table that seats 14 (6 on each side and 1 on each end) and it is fairly comfortable even sliding past to get to the seats in the middle. Our chairs are normal size, not overly large and you don't have to "hug the wall" to get by. Also, be sure to use the measurements from the counter overhang edge (the cabinets may be 24", but have a 1-2" overhang) and know your table measurements. Our table is 40" wide, but tables can vary GREATLY from about 32" wide to about 48" wide. If you are unsure, try to plan for a wider width. These dimensions above are for regular chairs. Banquet seat dimensions would be a little different. On a round table, you can fudge the above numbers a little because the table curves away from you almost immediately. Not so much on an oval table. The curve on an oval is only on the corners, where there will already be plenty of space anyway. One thing that does help you is the doorway opening on 2 sides of the table which makes the traffic passing area feel more generous. There is no wall or obstruction behind the table there. WIDTH NEEDED for dining ... Ideally, you need 24-28" of width for each seated person at a dinner table or for bar seating. 30" would be Very graciously spacious. At a bare minimum, you need about 21" width for bar seating. KNEE SPACE: If putting stools or chairs on perpendicular sides of a table/island/peninsula, be sure the knee space is not shared by 2 seats. For 30" high tables (table height) you need 18" table overhang / knee space For 36" high counters (counter height) you need 15" counter overhang / knee space For 42" high counters (bar height) you need 12" counter overhang / knee space Some people do get by with less overhang at their bar or island. I actually have 18.5" wide for each of my 4 barstools, which are just round so not very large stools (Acme Furniture 07258). I would not do a dining table with personal space this narrow at 18-21", but you can get away with it a little more easily at a bar. We have 15" overhang on the long side of our counter height (36" tall) peninsula. When we are sitting at our peninsula, we normally pull one of the stools around to the end which has an 8" overhang. The 8" counter overhang is not ideal by any means, but it is workable for occasional use. This gives each of the 3 stools on the long side 24.5" wide per person . When it's kids sitting there, the decreased space works ok for them and they all 4 stay side by side with 18.5" each...See MoreStarting from scratch - appliances ok?
Comments (28)Hi Pie! I am sorry to know that all is not as you had visualized. All I can offer is to say don't be discouraged! I am sure it will be wonderful. We built a significant addition to this house 12 years ago (2 storey 28 x 32) and I remember thinking exactly the same way...oh no...this is not nearly large enough! Well, of course, for us it is. Our home is now 4200 sq ft...for 2 people...that's ok! We are not finished our kitchen reno yet. The cabinet maker lives an hour away from us and does not like to drive in winter weather ...that makes life difficult. However, he is absolutely fabulous at matching new stain to existing cabinets so that is why I have stayed with him. I fired our K.D. in early November...that is a long story and I should have done so weeks previous. We are no farther along than the last posting. Our tile man "Sonny" will be coming the end of the week to do the backsplash. Our cabinet maker should be here also at the end of the week. So, fingers crossed...it will all be done in the next week or so Hooray! I will definitely subit some photos...See MoreRelated Professionals
Whitman Interior Designers & Decorators · Fort Lewis Architects & Building Designers · Memphis Architects & Building Designers · North Chicago Architects & Building Designers · Portage Architects & Building Designers · Riverside Architects & Building Designers · Newnan Furniture & Accessories · Salem General Contractors · Green Bay General Contractors · Melville General Contractors · Port Washington General Contractors · Riverdale General Contractors · Maywood Cabinets & Cabinetry · Turlock Tile and Stone Contractors · Mililani Town Design-Build Firms- 4 years ago
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