James Galway for 6 ft fence
sd2102 (8b PNW)
3 years ago
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dianela7analabama
3 years agosd2102 (8b PNW)
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Teas for a 50 ft Wall
Comments (11)Good advice from both Hoov and Jackie. We have a long, 14-ft-tall concrete block retaining wall (long ago painted creme). The wall faces South, so even here in our cool coastal area, it grabs every bit of heat, and reflects it back. We found that to make roses work here, we needed to break that heat, which regularly cooked canes to death. Adding some latticework panels along the wall, behind the roses helped quite a lot, but even so, the site required roses that were well-foliaged up, and lighter colors did better than dark ones, for the most part. One lower section of wall doomed three different cultivars in a row. Finally, we replaced the last victim with 'Louis Philippe,' which has absolutely flourished there. Left un-pruned, it has grown up and bushed out to the point that it covers almost all of the offending bit of wall. It's never sun-burned, never had any disease, and is never completely out of bloom. We've grown all of the cultivars you've named, on our hillside, tho not against the wall. All have done well, except Mrs. B.R. Cant, which has been laggardly. Lady Hillingdon and Mons. Tillier have a certain amount of bare cane, which could have problems up against the wall. (You could plant dwarf lavender to protect those areas.) Niles Cochet, in particular, is tough as nails, and I think will be a joy to you. (Have you considered the other Cochets? They're all great, tho I agree that Niles is somewhat superior.) Maman Cochet: White Maman Cochet: Niles Cochet: Jeri...See MoreJames Galway?
Comments (7)Hi Pattie, James Galway is a little stiff in my experience for using it as a climber to cover an arch. 'The Generous Gardener' is a better choice, it has slender canes and a much more luxuriant growth, so it would be easier for you to cover the arch and to have a dense plant in flower from the base to the top. St. Swithun is one of my favorite DA, also very good as a climber, but shorter than the Gardener ;o) Ciao! Maurizio...See MoreHow to grow climbers without fences, walls, or arbors?
Comments (23)Olga: I would agree that in your zone this structure could be overgrown.... in Zone 4 maybe not...it's really tough in my zone (3) to get year after year incremental vertical growth with most Canadian bred roses unless your winter protection is somewhat elaborate. Does anyone have a photo of a mature Quadra in Zone 4 that illustrates it's growth potential? Perhaps Ramblin Red would be a better candidate although it isn't as hardy. I posted this photo because my experience with typical support structures purchased in local nurseries is that they usually aren't strong enough to deal with larger roses in the wind...this one will...and you can change the width and height to accomodate the rose(s). I'm in the same situation as Gardenerzone4...I've run out of walls and fences to support my climbers...quite a dilemma...so the roses have to go out in the open and how do you support them?...I also like the effect of mass plantings...it gives me a bit of insurance to get the desired effect...so in my climate, away from the walls and fences, I know I should establish more plants than a rose grower in warmer climates...i.e. to get a similar desired effect....See MoreWinter performance of David Austin roses in Zone 6a
Comments (96)@Ann Marie, I have a few climbers and ramblers on a trellis and my best advice is to make sure your rose is hardy for your climate by choosing ones that are atleast one or two hardiness zones below yours. That’s the best way to ensure cane survival through winter (right plant, right place). If the rose is near a wall that retains and reflect heat, then I do zone push and have had success with climbers my zone or one zone above. For example, I’m in zone 4b and I have no problems with New Dawn and James Galway surviving winter without protection on a northwest and southwest wall, respectively. As for training the rose, my approach is to tie the canes tight against the support so that it is secure and doesn’t whip around or rub. I do this in the late winter / early spring when the rose is dormant along with pruning so that I can see the rose’s framework. It also means that I’m working with only hardened canes (I never tie soft or semi-hard canes). I use simple garden twine and tie tight double knots. I don’t skimp and make sure the final rose frame work absolutely does not move. I tie the largest, most established canes to the support first, then the rest. I may even tie smaller canes to the bigger ones. Yes, it’s “crossing branches” but so long as they are tied tight and not rubbing, I find it’s totally fine. Key is no movement of any of those framework canes. I intentionally use twine because it blends in, is cheap, and will eventually degrade (since I do this all over again every winter/spring). If the rose cane is really old and has a tough bark and I know it’s not going to expand, then I tie into the support with black zip ties (gasp!). I’ll also mention that optimal blooms form on canes that are positioned between horizontal and 45 degrees. Here’s a pic of my William Baffin climber last year on a wooden trellis....See Moredianela7analabama
3 years agodianela7analabama
3 years agosd2102 (8b PNW)
3 years agosd2102 (8b PNW)
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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