Removing load bearing wall advice

3 years ago

last modified: 3 years ago

We had a structural engineer come out today, and he will be writing up some plans for us. The idea I’m most keen to is placing the beam above the ceiling through a ventilation hole on the side of the house. The purpose of removing this load-bearing wall is to be able to add a kitchen island and open the space up.

If I’m able to go with this plan, I’m trying to decide what to do with the sides of the wall. On the left side, there is about a foot and a half wall before an opening. Then, on the right side there is a maybe three inch “wall.” the structural engineer let me know removing the tiny wall would mean losing closet space. I’d rather not do this.

I’m thinking about leaving the left side wall as-is, the header along the top part of the wall as-is, and making the right side wall the same size as the left.

Any opinions, or different ideas? Any kind replies are welcomed!

Wall from living room

Wall from kitchen

Left side of wall and header shot

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Patricia Colwell Consulting

3 years ago

I rarely like kitchens opened to LR if you post a floor plan of the kitchen and DR you might get some help. That drawing needs to be to scale all windows and doors marked and all measurements clearly marked. All your LR and kitchen flooring will need to match the rest of the flooring so be prepared for that . IMO you might already have space for something once you remove that weird cabinet desk area and that pony wall.

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Comments (8)

tozmo1
3 years ago
I'm confused with left side, right side. If the wall is removed, there are no sides.

Maybe a floor plan sketch would be helpful to show what is being removed.
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With a 2 story structure, removing load bearing walls gets to be infinitely more difficult than in a one story. There's also snow loads, and seismic and high wind stability with resistance to shearing to consider in creating the support for what you are thinking of removing. If this is to be a DIY project, you need to have a pretty well experienced friend list in the trades that are willing to give you a couple of weekends for a heck of a lot of pizza and beer, and you'd better be well experienced as well. Might be cheaper (and safer!) to just call a licensed contractor who already has the burly guys on his payroll and can do this a bit quicker. And that IS after a consult with a structural engineer who will create the support plan! That's how you know for sure that your house won't fall down in the next high wind. :-)
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The structural engineer can tell a lot even without open walls. He'll look in the attic to see how the roof structure is supported. When he know which way the joists and rafters run, he can make a few educated assumptions that will go a long way to relieving your anxiety. If there isn't any sagging of the opening and adjacent walls, cracking of drywall or plaster, the chances are they properly supported it. Get a licensed structural engineer to conduct an inspection.
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If I were to take a swag at the "what would it take" question, I'd guess that you'd need to run full-length joists (rafters) along these 2 planes (yellow highlight). They would need to span from outside wall to outside wall. The process of removing existing and installing new isn't rocket science, but it is painstaking. Support roof on either side of the LB wall with temporary stud walls 2. Carefully cut out existing joist (remove existing joist hangers, drop or cut rafter out) Install new, full-length joist (make sure you have it engineered for the needed load). 4. Re-attach rafters to the joist with joist hangers. 5. Remove temporary wall We DIY-ed something similar in the 2nd floor ceiling of our last house with a flush laminate beam. The trickiest part might be that the roof sheathing is likely nailed into the joist. You can cut the nails out with a sawzall, but you won't be able to nail into the new one unless you are re-roofing.
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Wow. I’m just gonna be straight. I’m very offended. I have no plans to do this myself. This started as just a question about COST. I get that it might be difficult to assess over the internet. I NEVER said I was doing the work myself. I WILL BE hiring a contractor. In fact I mentioned that one is coming on Monday. I was just trying to COST things out. I’m not an idiot. I don’t base decisions on HGTV. WTF? Just to help commenters in the future ... maybe you shouldn’t make assumptions about the OP’s motives, plans, capabilities, thought processes... I got some good info here but I really wasn’t expecting to be insulted in the process. So I’d appreciate it if everyone just dropped it. Pretend you never even read such a stupid question as “how much does this cost” so you can all sleep at night. Oh, and for those of you that think I’m an idiot for wanting to open the wall, please don’t waste my time. I asked about cost. Heck, I just expected someone to say that either there’s a huge cost difference, there’s no cost difference or it’s not possible to know without seeing it in person. I did get that last response and some great info from a few folks. But then I was called an idiot, that I lack a multitude of capabilities, that I base decisions on HGTV, that I have horrible tastes, etc. Wow. Maybe I just don’t know the etiquette. Is it okay to ask questions on Houzz that I don’t know the answer to? Is it okay to not be a professional contractor? Is it okay to not know what I don’t know? Maybe I’ll update this thread after I’ve destroyed my house and I’m living in a shed. Because I’m just that stupid, right?
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DavidR
3 years ago
Your floor plan is already plenty open. You want it more so? Do you realize how much this is going to cost?

It looks like you just bought the house. I suggest that you live there for a while. You may find that you like it just the way it is, especially when you see the bids for changing what the original architect designed.

As an aside, your wallet will be much happier and fatter if you stop watching those home "improvement" television programs. They're designed to make you unhappy with your house so you'll give money to their sponsors, who already have more money than they need.

Sorry for the rant. I'll get off my soapbox now.
PRO
Patricia Colwell Consulting
3 years ago
I will agree if you just moved in then wait for any changes until you see how you live in the house .
live_wire_oak
3 years ago
A20K beam isn’t going to help you here.
cat_ky
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
I just do not understand why anyone wants guests in their living room, to be viewing a kitchen, that may have dirty dishes, from just cooking a meal, or when you are in the middle of baking, or any number of things. Your floor plan, already looks pretty open, I sure wouldnt want it anymore open. Your house is very pretty, just the way it is.
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Joseph Corlett, LLC
3 years ago
Living rooms adjoining kitchens are everywhere in newer stand-alone condo developments in Florida. It's fabulous for my sink replacement business. Big screen television focal point on one wall, new apron sink in the island opposite. I do this job over and over again.

These condos aren't big, 1,800sf or so, but the retirees who live in them aren't paying on their children's student loans anymore and they want them nice. Very nice.
katinparadise
3 years ago
If you move the wall, how will you handle the flooring? Right now, you have 3 different kinds of flooring. Do you plan to replace it all to one consistent floor?

Removing load bearing wall advice

Patricia Colwell Consulting

Comments (8)

tozmo1

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