Safe weed control
flopsycat1
2 years ago
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flopsycat1
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoRelated Discussions
Safe termite control for organic garden
Comments (24)I know I'm late to the discussion. Fipronil trench is a perfect solution to preventing termites from getting into your walls. It is a very labor intensive job, and a homeowner can accomplish this if dedicated to the job. In conjunction to this, exercise the bait stations in and around the perimeter of your house. You can also create your own termite killing bait stations. Get some pine garden stakes, a 5 gallon bucket. Mix a super concentrated solution of fipronil in some water, soak the garden stakes in the solution for several weeks, occasionally stir the solution with the stakes about every 2-3 days. Hammer stakes in the ground around your house. Termites cannot detect the fipronil, will eat on the stakes, bring the poison back to the colony and destroy the hive. Use the old solution of fipronil around dark damp areas surrounding your home to amend your barrier. Agee with other post; the chemical deterrent barriers simply don't work and the termites will find the area that is deficient in treatment, whereas the undetectable barrier is the Trojan horse. You can find this stuff on domyownpestcontrol.com or Amazon Love that website. BTW, I use Taurus SC as opposed the more expensive Termidor SC. Now, back to the question. How do I keep the termites out of my garden, and to stop eating away at the planter box. Here is my intentions. On the bottom of the planter, spread a grip load of diatomaceous earth down nice and even with special attention around the wood areas, lay a weed block barrier down. Apply a plastic barrier between the planter box and the garden dirt (stapled). Wet the planter box boards and rub diatomaceous earth (DE) on the boards (use rubber gloves), and as you work your way to the top of keep pouring DE between the plastic sheet and boards. Cover the top of the boards with the plastic sheet to the other side and down about an inch. The diatomaceous earth (if ingested by any bug, will rip their intestines apart and keep grub and termites from coming from the bottom of your planter). Not sure if this is going to work, but it is plausible in my mind. In one growing season, the termites have eaten about halfway through my pine 2x10's! Nasty critters....See MoreBittercress - how to control safely and easily?
Comments (7)amysun, I don't have any advice on the bittercress, but have you thought about planting some Fragaria chiloensis? It's another wild strawberry (it and Fragaria virginiana accidentally hybridized in a garden in France...where neither one is native..to give us the cultivated strawberry, Fragaria x ananassa). Anyway, you might want to consider it, especially if your ground is kind of sandy. F. chiloensis loves sandy sites; one of its common names is beach strawberry. There are also some white-fruited types, which are native to Chile, but should also do very well in your climate. F. chiloensis has really thick, leathery, glossy leaves, and runners very heavily, especially the ones which are native to California. I'm not sure where to purchase them, though, but the germplasm repository in Corvallis might send some to you....See MoreSlope full of weeds, need fast growing ground cover/weed control
Comments (4)If you take a look at photos I have posted on Cottage Garden-gallery (see "Things are starting to fill in") you will understand that I know from what I speak (my whole garden is a slope). When we bought this property many years ago, it was covered with maple trees which provided slightly less than total darkness under which nothing would grow (except weeds). I tackled this mess one area at a time. As my knowlege grew--so did the number and size of the beds. Try to do only what you can reasonably do well at the moment. You will have the time, however limited , to monitor your beds and watch for problems, happy accidents (like a volunteer seedling having planted itself). You will also learn if the plant choices you have made like the home you have provided them. This alone could save you a lot of frustration, time and financial investment. Having tried landscape fabric-difficult to keep in place,mulch tends to slide off (particularly in a hard rain). I prefer to use the 'lasagna method'. Lay down 8 layers of wet newspaper overlapping edges so weeds can't find a way through and cover with several inches of mulch (I find shredded bark works best because it will knit together and prevent sliding. Many local landfills provide this to the community at little to no cost.). Leave to overwinter. This method will not only help to control the weed problem, but will also add beneficial elements to the quality of the clay soil. Ask your friends and relatives if they would help you by saving their old newspapers for you (you will need quite a bit). I don't know the ages of your little ones, but if they are anything like my two kids were at toddler stage and up, there is nothing they would like more than helping mom and dad. Especially if it involves the opportunity to "play" in the water and get soaking wet outside. You could try this project on a hot summer day In the spring you can plant. What plants will depend on your light conditions. I hope this is helpful....See MoreBroadleaf dandelion control that is clover SAFE?
Comments (3)Maifluer has the best solution given you don't want to hurt the clover. If you paint the centers of the dandelions with the herbicide, you should little or no damage to the clover, and if there is some, the clover should quickly spread to fill in any gaps. When painting it on, be careful not to let any drip from the brush onto the clover, and use a more concentrated solution than used in a hand sprayer. For example, if your directions say to mix 2 tablespoons of the weed killer per gallon of water, then mix it 50/50 or 40/60. When you put it on, you don't need to cover the entire plant, just dampen the center of the dandelion. Glyphosate will work well and leaves no soil residue that will hurt the clover. You can also use products containing 2,4-D or dicamba, although these can release vapors that may affect nearby clover (though it won't necessarily be killed). You may also need to make a couple repeat applications before completely killing the plants. Dandelions are particularly invasive where the lawn is thin, so be sure to correct the conditions causing thin areas to help prevent the dandelions from getting going in the first place....See Moreflopsycat1
2 years agoflopsycat1
2 years agoflopsycat1
2 years agoflopsycat1
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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