Hello, I would love some Castor Beans. I have a number of different morning glories, Joe Pye weed and other seeds. Contact me for list JohnSpagnoli422@hotmail.com My GW email rarely works. John

In an extremely high % of cases, necrotic leaf tips and margins are caused by over-watering, an excessively high level of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil solution, or some combination of the two. High root temperatures, nutritional imbalances, ammonium toxicity, and phytotoxicities (things poisonous to plants) like air pollution can also cause or contribute to the physiological disorder causing the symptoms. In most cases, the greatest amount of traction is to be gained from making sure your watering appropriately and flushing the soil of accumulating salts when you water. If you can't water appropriately w/o limiting normal root function or root health, you might want to take a look at the soil you're using. In any case, getting to the point where you can water to beyond the point of total soil saturation, so you're flushing the soil when you water, without having to worry the soil will remain saturated for an extended period, represents something of a breakthrough for the grower. When you find yourself at that point, it is much, much easier to consistently maintain your plants in a state of high vitality, which means you don't have the unsightly symptoms to remind you that the plant is being asked to tolerate something it's not genetically programmed to deal with. I'd start using a 'tell' to 'tell' you when it's time to water (see more below). I'd also keep learning more about how much impact soil choice has on your potential for consistent success. A General Overview (click me) Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Al

Hey I want to follow up on my tree. It has been outside since June and it is so much happier. I do not like to use pesticides and that Rose rx worked well for my roses so I try to just use it when necessary. the Rose RX worked! I sprayed it and gave the tree a small trim .. rose rx has neem oil. Then I did it again about 10 days later but pruned it a lot more..This I did i think 3 times and around July 4th really started looking good. Looking much better. Even the companion plant flourished! oxalis? It was dying too. I think my plant problem here is multifaceted. fungus and spider mites and the rust..IDK 1. spider mites, some of my plants get holes in the center of the leaf, not eaten from the outside and no visible bugs except daddy long legs.hummm. 2. systemic issue? some of plants and most of my perennials have bumpy deformed leaves..and the holes.. My lemon tree was doing poorly as well. bumpy funny shaped leaves and small holes in the middle part of the leaf. 3. my small lilacs i transplanted for a mother 3 years ago have powdery mildew. i tried soapy water/murphy's oil soap..but gave up.. But I saved the Avacado! I have to tell my brother as he gave it to me in a milk carton in 2006? I am trying to save my lemon tree with the neem oil (started from seeds) but that is another story I will post pix soon on that one!) some of my other house plants need attention before I have to bring them in this fall. I would prefer not to use pesticides because of the bees and birds.. do you think the neem is safe? The cold nights come quick here in Vermont.

Extension offices all have master gardeners working out of them. Typically the extension agent (or farm advisor as he/she is called in CA) only works with commercial entities. The MGs are the 'retail' arm. They can go to the extension agent for advice if they are stumped. That is exactly what the MG program is for.