I've had a Toro lx427 for about one year bought it used I will tell you if you buy one used take down all the part numbers and verify the part numbers are for a Toro mine is hard to find parts for because it's been modified so be carful when buying one and ask the right questions 1 has the deck been replaced if so from what model or was it new from factory by the way those are over 300 for just the bare shell 2 when was the last time the oil was changed 3 does it have a new motor as they have an hour meter on them 4 when was the drive train last serveced 5 has there been any modifications to the drive system other wise yes very good mower I use mine at my house and I also use it on others lawns very good mowing very good with a plow not sure about a thrower but yes I'm sure it will do fine with one mine has a 20 horse Kohler couage very good motor I would suggest if you get a thrower to get the weight rack not the wheel weights wheel weights are more expensive I know stupid but true I've done my research and get a set of chains they are about 70 for a set of two be carful on which ones you buy some are quick release and the prongs break easy better off buying the ones that slip over the tires and strap in

I would say, absolutely go for it! I kept most of my existing cabs and had them refaced (new doors and stain). Since it was a matter of staining and needing a new section of cabs built, I had a local cabinet maker do it all. But, in a painting situation, it would be so much easier. I have read many good things about Scherr's and don't think you could go wrong with that one plan of yours. Call them up so you can be advised as to the best hinges and bore holes for the doors so ordering the doors and hanging them will go smoothly. They will make the holes for you. Good luck and let us know what you decide to do!

I've had some issues like that back when I used dryer sheets. They can cause a lot of problems. I have difficulty believing it's leftover bleach in the machine for one simple reason: If it's coming from the bleach dispenser, the water should be diluting it so it shouldn't be spots. If anything it should fairly evenly lighten all the clothes in there assuming it's a high enough concentration to overpower the water dilution. Somehow the bleach, if it's bleach, seems like it would be getting on there not only after the wash cycle but also after the rinse cycle and even after the spin it would seem for it to damage only in spots. I assume the clothes are left alone in the room and you're not there with it. I suspect some mischief or an accidental spill in or on the machine are far more believable cause potentials than a machine malfunction. or if you set the clothes on a counter or top of the machine that may have had a chemical spill where it could pick up the problem. Do you use liquid fabric softener or dryer sheets? There are some very real candidates for problems too. And the machines are there and used at your own risk so naturally the management is not going to reimburse you for the clothes. There's probably a disclaimer in your lease/rental agreement and possibly even a caution sign in the room or on the machines. FWIW, to properly use bleach you need to wait a while and let the detergent do its thing before adding bleach. That's the reason for a bleach dispenser. If you add bleach with the detergent, you kill any enzymes in the detergent and according to many it essentially kills the cleaning power of the detergent too so it's a waste of money to put the detergent in there at all in that case.

kim k: Our Calacatta (Gold) quartzite arrived at the stone yard polished, and DH and I wanted honed tops. To oldryder's point: all the lines, colors, drama, etc. will be more muted once you remove the polish, but that's actually what we wanted. Among the many other issues we had with our installation, the honing/leathering was likewise a disaster. Our fabricator gave us two samples to choose from: honed and leathered (they had plenty of our slab, so prepared samples for us). The leathered sample look very orange peel-y -- lots of small dimples. We opted for the honed, as it was the perfect amount of matte and smoothness. After the installation, I noticed the tops were very gritty, and the veins had a whitish appearance here and there that were not in the sample we received. When I asked the company for the honed sample to compare, it took them a week (or longer) to 'look for it' (to include their coming back to me and asking, "Are you sure our guys took it with us?") before admitting they lost it. At that point, I had no 'proof' to show what the end result was that we'd agreed upon. While they admitted I should end up with a smooth, non-gritty surface, they didn't know where to go from there. They had me contact a regional rep to inquire, and they had me post a query on on the Stone Fabricators Alliance forum (at which point the pros -- as helpful and understanding as they tried to be -- told me to tell my 'guy' to get off their butts and post the inquiry themselves...a customer shouldn't have to do this for a fabricator). We went back and forth for months. They finally agreed to use different brushes and try leathering the tops -- used a sample, and this time, the leathering didn't result in orange peel. I agreed to having them leather (or whatever they wanted to call it) on site. At this point, I can still see grinder 'arc' marks on the tops, but along with so many other issues with the installation, I just settled. Based only on my single experience, I would not recommend having a fabricator (unless old ryder was nearby!) hone the tops -- unless you can go back and point to an example of what the end product should be. Good luck!