I am happy to report that the sink has been excised from the Corian! It's now on my DR table (which tends to be my overflow project room) and I spent a few hours last Saturday looking through the remnants at nearby stone yards here in southern Maine. Yikes - what a variation in price! In one very close to my home, I saw a remnant of imperial Danby Marble that was beautiful with the sink, as the soft tan in it was picking up the crackle finish in the sink. I made my vanity in the powder room from an antique bureau. I need a top about 23 x 43, and currently have a 3" back splash. That place quoted me $1050.+ :-( Current top, which I'd save and possibly use again someday, if I tire of the sink above. I went to a much smaller two man operation, and while they didn't have a remnant that I liked as well, their price, including templating and install, was approx. $400. :-) I left my name and they saw the faucet handle that I lugged around to hold up to the stone, so they know what I'm looking for. I'll check back with them from time to time to see what else they may have. I also saw this overmount sink in a painted wooden top in the link below, and if I can't find some stone that doesn't break the bank, I may go this route. I could also do some faux marble painting, in either something like the Imperial Danby or what I think the dark green marble is above - Empress Green? I think that a soft white with tan veins, along the line of what I did on this little antique table with gray veins below might be best in my home, though. Here is a link that might be useful: Another possibility - stained or painted wood

Nolamom, sorry for the late reply. I hadn't checked this thread for a while. We used a Corian Counter-Seal ring. The KD says something seemed to have changed in the adhesive Corian tells the fabricators to use, as during a 2 year period about 5 failures like ours happened (2007-late 2008). The fabricators swore they were using the approved stuff and were certified, so it wasn't their fault. The Counter-Seal people said it was past the 1 year warranty, so it wasn't their problem. The KD quit selling the undermount rings as he couldn't afford to cover more new counters for replacements. I just saw some ads for a new overmount sink that has a very flat thin lip, so it seems to almost look and work like an undermount sink. Here's the info--it's from an article on CNET. "How about an easy-(and inexpensive) to-install overmount sink that gives you the look of a flushmount? That's what you get with MicroEdge, the latest offering from Blanco. It's an ultrafine rim--1.25 mm--that installs over virtually any counter material for a precision, near seamless edge. The sink isn't cheap--you'll spend around $600--but the install is standard enough that you can do it yourself or hire someone to do it for you for far less than a flush or undermount." I'm was actually glad I didn't see these sinks before we ordered the granite, as I might have given in to my DH's desire to just replace the sink section of the laminate and do an overmount sink this time. If granite/quartz isn't an option, these new sinks might be workable for OP. Good luck!

Live Wire Oak - your comments don't mention that the big name brands also sell "asian imports". You won't sell any "off brands" (what does that mean - Kraus?), but Blanco, Franke, Kohler all sell chinese-made sinks. Usually the only way you can tell is by looking on the box, where the origin is required to be listed. Sometimes if you call the company, and ask about a specific model number, they will tell you, sometimes not. Furthermore, many sink manufacturers source their stainless steel from Asia, even if the sink itself is made in U.S., Turkey, or Switzerland. There is no way to tell that. Warps and dents occur in sinks with thin gauge, regardless of where they are made. Rusting is a result of people using steel wool on their sinks, which leaves behind particles which sit on the surface and rust. You will find rusting from this in a $2000 sink. Your criticisms don't jibe with all the satisfied customers of Kraus and Vigo. You've been on this forum a while, and must have seen their posts.

I replace sinks for a living and have yet to pull a countertop to replace a sink except in solid surface. You tap the cabinet front off, change the sink, and put it back on. I've done it twenty times. Did it the day before yesterday. For easiest sink changes, insist that your fabricator strap, not insert fasten, your sink in place with a Hercules Universal Sink Harness (Braxton Bragg) or a Sink Strap (Regent Stone Products) or two. Two easily accessible bolts instead of 12 inaccessible ones. I'd change a strapped apron undermount in a hour at most. Make sure he puts a nice radius at your sink cut-out too, 3/8" minimum. No pencil edge, please.