Food oil stain on engineered hardwood
Lana Benge
3 years ago
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Lana Benge
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Dark hardwood vs lighter hardwood floors
Comments (61)When it comes to hardwood, trends are something to ignore! Why? Because hardwood is pretty much a lifetime purchase, and unless yours is damaged in some way, you're probably not going to replace it. So, light wood vs. dark wood, wide planks vs. narrow planks -- that stuff's all going to come and go. With that in mind -- as well as the very real concerns about cleaning dark wood -- I'll vote for a nice, neutral midtone every time. Not too much contrast, not too red, and (unless it's a beach house) not too pale. I think this is the wood that's most likely to give you good service and stand the test of time....See Moresolid hardwood vs. engineered hardwood
Comments (21)I'm a fan of Hickory. Love it! I love it's STRONG variation! Yep. Variation is the word that can be used for Hickory. If you are going for "mid-tone" then it means the Hickory is stained. No problem. That's fine. Hickory takes a stain very nicely. But it will still have plenty of variation. The stain will even that out a little bit, but not entirely. The finish is UV cured urethane. I'm not very excited about that finish. If you are going for factory finish, you will want to work with the TOUGHEST finishes on the market (that's why you go with factory finished...for the TOUGH finish). The UV cured urethane is a ho-hum type of finish. Average would be the best way to describe it. The thickness of the plank is 3/4" = normal for sold. The plank width is 5" with random lengths UPTO 60" (5ft). That tells me there will be many planks in the 3' - 4' range. Again, this is ho-hum average. And with a wide plank product, it will need "glue assist". And Hickory certainly needs it because it has a bit more movement (less stable) than white oak. And then there is the "low gloss" format. The low-gloss finish on this depth of colour = nightmare to live with. It will show dust, etc as well as oily foot prints, sock prints, paw prints and will look hazy at certain times during the day. The "haze" is part of the chemical make up of the finish itself = that's how they take away the gloss...they haze it with a chemical additive. The haze goes away when you sand and refinish the floor. That's the only way to fix it. If you must have a mid-tone floor, I would recommend a TOUGHER finish (aluminum oxide or ceramic infused polyurethane) in a satin. Satin is FAR MORE livable. It offers a lovely glow without being shiny. It hides skin oils (like paw prints from dogs) because it is the same gloss level as skin oils....it isn't hazy....you get the idea....See MoreHelp with hardwood floor selection! UV cured oil finish any good?
Comments (5)The "Maintenance of hardwood floors with Silk Oil finish assumes regular (daily if necessary) cleaning from dust and grit using a vacuum, followed by a thorough cleaning with Coswick Hardwood Floor Cleaner or other similar product." Is 100% normal for hardwoods. The sweeping vacuuming 2-5 times per week is a normal requirement for hardwood (and vinyl and laminate and cork and linoleum). The 'followed by' part does not mean 'immediately afterwards'. A regular 'damp' cleaning (for poly = water only) is 1/week. A regular wood cleaner (for poly) is 1-2 per MONTH. The Silk Oil will be closer to the polyurethane side of things than the oil side of things. Don't get discouraged by the 'maintenance'. These statements are everywhere for hardwood. The part that is closer to hardwax oil is: "In areas where traffic is most intense, it is recommended to periodically apply Coswick restorative cleaners for oiled floors. Such floor cleaners consist of up to 10% wax, and, in addition to cleaning the floor surface from dirt, they renew worn-down finish." The reappliction of the 'oil' back onto the finish is normal for hardwax oils. In essence this finish is a temporary "ail acrylates" 'polish'. The 4 layers means they have thrown down plenty of waxy finish...that needs a bit of a boost from time to time. My issue is the wire brushing. This is a texture that is known to cause issues with cooking oils and spills. I would personally purchase a box of the floor to test test test the finish out for a few months. After that test, you decide if you can handle the high wearing waxy finish and the wire brush texture. European Oak normally requires a HEALTHY budget. Where are you located and what is your total budget and your square footate?...See MoreEngineered hardwood to complement existing red oak floors
Comments (8)I'm in Canada, so I get the cool feeling. As a cork flooring professional I have 'issues' with in-floor radiant heat because the product I LOVE (love cork....LOOOOOOOVE IT!) cannot go over top. Cork has TOO HIGH of an insulation value. It counter-acts any heat that is trying to push through. Wood is a semi-conductor. It will allow 'some' energy (ie. heat, electricity) through while blocking the rest of it. For that reason, most people who want in-floor radiant heat to warm their toes use tile, stone or carpet (are you trying to heat the HOUSE with the radiant heat or are you warming your toes?). The other issue I have with in-floor radiant heat = it severely limits the product you are allowed to use over top. The BIGGEST issue is with ELECTRIC HEAT. Sigh....the stuff that is used most often in 'renovations' with radiant heat. Ahem....electric radiant systems are not the one's who tell you what can and cannot go over their product. They will 'claim' just about anything to get you to purchase their product. Nope. It is the FLOORING manufacturer who says, "Appropriate for use with hydronic in-floor radiant heat." Notice I changed to 'hydronic' with that last statement? Yep. Hydronic = water/oil/gel. It is the most efficient, expensive and the most rigorous to install. It can (potentially) raise the floor height of the room by more than 1". It can be hung from the subfloor BELOW the floors (that means you need access to ceiling in your basement (assuming you have a basement...I can't tell). That will keep the floor-raise to a minimum (or zero...). It is still expensive to install. So...my question is: which TYPE of in-floor radiant heat are you using? Hydronic? Electric? Or my favourite 'oldy but a goodie' = Forced Air (yes...I've seen it! Soooo interesting...from a house built in the 1950's)? The TYPE of in-floor radiant system AND the REASON for the heat (whole home system or just warming your toes) will dictate WHAT you are allowed to put over top....See MoreLana Benge
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