Fisher and paykel washer won't drain
Nicki Tucker
3 years ago
last modified: 3 years ago
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zneret
3 years agoNicki Tucker
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Fisher and Paykel 2 drawer Dishwasher - Drawer won't stay closed
Comments (3)There are spring latches at back of the cabinet for each drawer that grab the end of the drawer rails to hold them closed. The latches flip open when the drawer is opened, grab the rail and flip closed when the drawer is closed. One of them probably somehow got flipped closed when the drawer was open and now isn't functioning properly. Remove the lower drawer so you can get to the back of the cabinet and clip the affected latch open. Another possibility if the the latch isn't the problem is that the link support that holds the water supply and drain hose so that they fold properly behind the drawer when it's opened and closed has broken and the hoses are interfering with the drawer....See MoreFisher Paykel Washer
Comments (1)I assume you mean it "is [not] advancing past the rinse cycle."  :-) The rinse cycle is more properly referred to as the rinse phase or rinse period. The machine performs several different actions ... drain, fill, and spin. Anyway, if the pump does run but the machine doesn't drain, then the diverter valve is very likely the problem. It has either gone bad/stuck and not shifting modes, or is trying to shift but is clogged with lint/debris, or the controller board could fail and be constantly sending power to the diverter such that it's always in recirculate mode (in which case the diverter may also be bad and caused a short in the circuit on the board). Run a Perm Press cycle. The diverter is not used for recirculation on Perm Press. If the machine doesn't drain after the wash period but instead recirculates the wash water ... diverter problem. Or test the pump and diverter in Diagnostic Mode. With the machine's power off, press and hold Wash Temp Down, then press Power at the same time. Should get two beeps and the panel comes on. Press Regular to run the pump, confirm that it does run. If there's water in the tub and it recirculates, then the diverter is stuck or the control board is keeping it constantly engaged. (Wash Temp Down or Up runs cold or hot water if you need to get some in.) In that case, you can troubleshoot further by getting under the machine and disconnecting the two wires on the diverter. Let the machine sit turned off for 10 mins or so to insure the diverter is cooled and has time to shift to drain. Run the pump again in Diagnostics (or run a Perm Press cycle), see if it drains. If so, then the controller board may be the problem. The Delicate button turns the diverter on/off in Diagnostic Mode. The diverter takes a minute or two two heat and shift when turned on, three mins or so to cool and shift back when turned off. If the board is bad and keeping the diverter on, then Delicate on or off will make no difference....See MoreGW11 Fisher & Paykel won't drain
Comments (1)Beaner84, Regards to the machine not draining ... do you mean that the new pump doesn't run? Or the pump runs but the water doesn't drain? When it's supposed to be draining and you open the lid for a look-see ... is the water recirculating back into the tub? If so, that indicates a broken or clogged diverter valve. The diverter controls which way the pumped water flows -- out the drain hose, or back into the tub through the recirculation port. The code you cite is 37, not 200. Fault 37 is Blocked Pump, but that doesn't necessarily mean the pump really is clogged or non-functional ... it just means the machine is supposed to be draining but the controller board is sensing that the water level is not going down as it should ... which is exactly what will happen if the diverter valve is stuck in recirculate mode due to being broken or clogged....See Morefisher paykel washer gwl11 won't rinse/spin
Comments (6)A bit interesting that the fault triggers at the point of spin and not earlier during agitation. Agitation of course involves the same drive motor running in stepping-control motion. Fault 243 (11110011) - Stepper Test Failure Rotor Position Sensor (RPS) Fault. The Motor Control Module has attempted a motor step test and found the motor has not stepped to the correct position. Source: Wiring Action: Check the RPS harness for continuity and that the connectors are are not loosened from the RPS and/or Motor Control Module. Source: Rotor Position Sensor Action: Check the RPS with an RPS tester [Note: This is an F&P service tool. There is no other way to directly test the RPS. DO NOT attempt a resistance reading on it with a volt/ohm meter]. Fit a new RPS if found faulty. [Note: A replacement RPS is not too expensive to just replace it if suspect.] Source: Motor Control Module Action: Replace the MCU Source: Motor Action: Check continuity of motor phases. Check continuity of the bridge terminal on the stator and observe that it is not burnt. Replace the stator....See Morezneret
3 years agoNicki Tucker
3 years agoNicki Tucker
3 years agozneret
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3 years agoNicki Tucker
3 years agodadoes
3 years agoNicki Tucker
3 years agodadoes
3 years agoNicki Tucker
3 years agoNicki Tucker
3 years agozneret
3 years agodadoes
3 years agoNicki Tucker
3 years agozneret
3 years agoNicki Tucker
3 years agodadoes
3 years agozneret
3 years agoNicki Tucker
3 years agozneret
3 years agoNicki Tucker
3 years agoHU-352499387
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