Kitchen design - if durability & maintenance are most important...
lindentree27
3 years ago
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eam44
3 years agomegs1030
3 years agoRelated Discussions
Drip irrigation-- fittings, flow rate,durability, maintenance Qs
Comments (2)My experience with drip irrigation like you are talking about is remote--I toured a setup in Arizona a number of years ago, and my next door neighbor converted his irrigation system to drip a couple years ago, which he kindly let me help with on occasion. So, take my comments as being from more of an observer. The drip systems are pretty much entirely plastic. There may be some metal, but it isn't common. These systems are rated for a useful life of 15-20 years, so the corrosion resistance of the plastic would give it an advantage over metal. I have been doing some surface drip on some trees for probably 7 years now with a used drip system. Each zone is controlled with a plastic ball valve and I have had no problems with these valves. The T tape that I have seen is buried from 8 to 16 inches deep as you don't want to water the surface of the soil except for germination. After that, you want to keep the surface dry to help control weed germination. In addition, the tape is buried deep enough that it won't be damaged by plowing or other field operations, and being deeper helps to hide it from moles and gophers which love to chew on the tape. If you do put it shallower, you could probably pick it up in the fall and store it inside when used on a small area such as a garden. I wouldn't think it would move in the soil, although if the lines get moved or kinked, when they get pressurized they will straighten out. I have also seen drip lines laid out on vegetable crops on bedded rows and covered with black plastic. Don't know if this was T tape, though. However, with the surface use, it appeared the plastic was removed and the tubes rolled up after the crop was off. Don't think there was anything used to hold the tubes in place, though. When it comes to the fall, my neighbor blows out the main lines and the drain line at the other end. He doesn't try to blow out the T tape itself as it has the emitters so has very little to no water in it when not running, and if ice does form it can expand inside the tubing without problem since the tubing is pretty well empty. Whether or not you use a quick connect for blowing the lines out depends on how much time you want to spend blowing the lines out in the fall. Since my neighbor is using settled and filtered ditch water, at the end of each daily water cycle on each zone, he opens the drain valve on the drain line and blows water out for a minute or two to help clear any sediment and protect the life of his investment. I have heard many times that the lines should receive some treatment periodically to prevent minerals from depositing in the emitters, and to control any bacteria that may be growing in the tubes to prevent them from forming gooey deposits that will accumulate sediment and plug the emitters. Usually, this is done by injecting sulphuric acid or phosphoric acid into the irrigation water one or more times during the year to achieve the desired pH of the water to remove the mineral deposits. The frequency of this will depend on the mineral content of the water, though. They also use phosphoric acid, which is a weaker acid, but also provides phosphate fertilizer to the plants. Sulphuric acid will also fertilize the soil with sulphur, if it is needed. If you don't treat the lines occasionally, you are likely to end up with deposits that will gradually plug the emitters and shorten the useful life of the tape. In a garden situation where the cost of what you are using is relatively small compared to a field situation, shortening the life of the tubes by a few years may not be a concern, but it will depend on the mineral content and other contaminants in your water. Good luck!...See MoreMost Durable French Door Refrigerator?
Comments (40)RE: Hi Birchpoint, I'll try to help with posting more than one picture in a post. This is how I do it, I have my photos in photobucket, I open a second window to show the pictures in the files and then copy and paste the photo into the message frame on GW using the edit tab in the toolbar. I then click back onto the photobucket window and do the same thing, you have to keep clicking back and forth, copying and pasting. You can enter lines between photos by hitting "enter" a couple of times between all the numbers and letters that appear after you paste the photo link in the GW message frame. Trust me, if I can do it anyone can. I am working on a laptop. You just have to keep two windows open and do exactly what you did with the first one you posted. You can't see them as photos until you "preview message" so you are working a bit in the blind but you get used to it. If you forget to space down a couple of lines between the photo links, they will just be all connected, not a big deal. If I remember I always try to leave a space or two so people won't have to wait forever for them to load and maybe freeze up their computer. It took me awhile to get the hang of it. I was scared to trust it but you can. You might have to practice a few times. I would have all of a reply written and then not do it right and lose it all. Your first few times, don't put your heart and soul into a post until you are sure it is going to work. It's no fun going back to rewrite a whole post, not to mention, most of us don't have time. My photobucket for some reason doesn't even show some of my pictures after I click on the thumbnail to enlarge it, but I click on the copy link anyway and it still pastes it....See MoreMost durable & low maintenance: Hardie, brick, or stucco?
Comments (59)One shouldn't compare durability of old brick buildings to current residential practices. Old brick is usually structural, three bricks thick or more. The weakness of brick is in the mortar and old professional work usually featured better sands with sharper, more varied particle sizes. Masons these days usually just stick with cheap, readily available masonry sand. Unfortunately, masonry is a dying trade. The biggest problem is that most residential brick work is a masonry veneer, covering wood-based construction. Along with stone and stucco, most brick veneer projects use inadequate vapor barriers and flashing. The masonry may look great from the outside, but the finishes are hiding mold, mildew and deterioration of the wood structure. Sometimes, this happens surprisingly fast. Masonry is considered a moisture reservoir cladding. It will soak up moisture from rain or sprinklers and send it towards the inside as the sun comes out. This makes it a more risky cladding than wood, metal, composite or vinyl. Masonry is one of my favorite exterior finishes but it takes extra effort than what is common in current construction practices. If you go with masonry, ensure your construction team understands the details like minding the gap and weatherproof window installations. When I was in Germany, there was a lot of troublesome renovation happening to the very old timberframe structures that had been stuccoed during times when stucco was considered more fashionable. The lime stuccos inhibited the drainage and drying of the wood, speeding up the timbers deterioration....See MoreIs furniture and furniture placement the most important element to a r
Comments (5)Here's my 2 cents, as a designer with about 20 years experience. Furnishing a room begins with a PLAN. You start your plan by determining what you want to do in the room, which informs everything else. Is it a place for entertaining, eating, TV watching, study, sleeping, playing an instrument? Once you have the function pinpointed, you draw the room to scale, noting positions of every door, window, heating elements, electrical outlets, fireplaces, and anything else of a permanent nature that would affect furniture placement. You look for focal points, natural lighting and views to the outside and to other rooms. The next step is to determine the furniture layout, including upholstery, case goods, floor and wall coverings, and lighting fixtures, keeping in mind scale and proportion as you figure out sizes of furniture, clearances, walkways, sight lines, etc. Only after you have this "road map" for your room will you begin to look at styles, colors, patterns of textiles, window coverings, and furnishings. You take your road map on all shopping trips, as any furniture salesperson will ask "what size (rug, sofa, table, etc.) are you looking for?" If you don't have the answer at the ready, you will waste a lot of time. And the last item you choose before the "frills" is the paint color on the walls. It's easier to match a paint color to your palette than the other way around. The "frills" are the decorative accessories like ceramics, paintings, sculpture, photos, vases, etc. Keep in mind that a room is never totally "done." It will change as your needs change, and should be flexible. Good luck with your project!...See MoreRCKsinks Inc.
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3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoeam44
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3 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
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3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoIsaac
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3 years agoMissi (4b IA)
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