In my experience and from what I've read, you can repot Phals that are blooming and trim roots in the process. Full-strength bottled lemon juice and lime juice on a paper towel have removed spots on my Phal leaves when they've just arrived from a commercial grower. I've never rinsed off the leaves right after but make sure there's no liquid in the crown. I've used RealLemon and RealLime 100% Juice from concentrate, manufactured by the Dr. Pepper Snapple Group. However, the leaves have never had a white film on them. If your lime juice doesn't work, perhaps the grower can offer options. WhiteCat8 Here is a link that might be useful: RealLime Juice

I think you may be watering too often. You state that you used non absorbent pots to help fight damping off. But I would think they would have the opposite effect. By not allowing the pots to breathe, moisture would be retained in the mix. I am not totally convinced it is fungal and even if it is I agree with Al that there is no need to be concerned yet. It could just be physical damage from a knock or something when moving them. I would hold off any chemicals or home brewed concoctions, reduce the water and watch carefully. If possible I would try to make a few more holes in the cups too. 2 holes in a plastic container which is getting watered frequently is probably not enough. Also in future I would not set the seedlings so deep in the pots. They end up with a mini humidity retaining wall around them. Fill the pots to the brim and plant the plants at the top. Plants are like people. It is better to keep healthy through an appropriate lifestyle than to live unhealthily and then reach for medicines to reverse the effects.

A note on using straw or sawdust in the tumbler, those are HUGE nitrogen eaters and to compost them will take a lot more green sources than you would normally use. I found with my tumbler that a 40/60 mix of greens/browns resulted in the 14 day compost that they advertise. For greens I used fresh grass clippings and for browns I used the usual mixture of shredded leaves, brown paper, etc. I turned it every day and never added any water to it. The grass was that soft, fluffy really green stuff that was about 6" tall in early Spring when we mowed it. I've never gotten the same result with grass that wasn't that fresh. Granburyflowergirl you've added too much moisture or moist ingredients to your tumbler and you should dump it out. If the inside of the tumbler stays too wet for extended periods it will rust and break. My mom had one, but it was located where the sprinkler system hit it every night when she watered the yard. Her tumbler rusted out in less than two years. But I called the Compostumbler folks and they sent me some new parts for free, since it was still under the 2 year warranty. I've never had any problems with mine and when the contents are not too wet, I don't have any trouble turning the handle either. It would be nice to get finished compost every 14 days, but it's just not possible with ordinary ingredients. I start a new batch in the fall with ground up leaves that I moisten before I put them in. Then through the winter I add our kitchen waste a couple times a week. Usually by about May the tumbler is finished and what I get is mostly leaf mold which is wonderful stuff. I've had my tumbler now for about 15 years. Since it doesn't smell and doesn't look real icky either I can keep it fairly close to the back door. In winter I don't have to walk too far to put stuff in it. DH prefers his ground compost bins to the tumbler and he makes a lot more compost than I do, but it's really hard work to turn the piles with a fork, sift the finished product and store it in barrels. Cheryl

Bayer Tree Care - a systemic that should fix the leaf problems . Does this sound like what your leaves look like ? From U of F : Alternaria Leaf Spot (Alternaria dauci) Symptoms: The disease usually starts on the leaf margins of older leaves, causing dark-brown to black spots with yellow borders. The expansion of numerous spots on a leaf will cause chlorosis (yellowing) and eventually necrosis (death) of the entire leaflet. Likewise, a few spots on the petioles (stems) may result in the death of an entire leaf. This fungal pathogen may also cause a shallow, firm, black decay of the roots. Cool temperatures are most favorable for disease development.