Lighter colors are more energy efficient than dark. Replacing the gutters may also involve repairing/replacing the fascia---the wood pieces to which the gutters are mounted. If those fascias are damaged(rot/etc.) that could be the reason the gutters are sagging. Replacing the fascias should be done after the old shingles are removed and before the new ones are installed. That allows the installerds to also check the framing to which the fascia trim is installed. As far as checking to make sure the soffit vents are unblocked, unless the sheathing is removed, you have top go into the attic to be able to check. I am going to add another possible solution to the venting problem---depending on the design of your roof. Adding vents that only vent the bottom 2/3 of the attic means the top 1/3 is not vented. If your attic/roof is a gable end design---the ends of the attic are flat extensions of the walls and the roof is shaped like the letter A(called a gable roof)---then a ridge vent is the better option. That allows physics to vent the attic---hot air rises to the top of the attic---and that is where the ridge vent is installed. Good open soffit vents are the other requirement. One soffit vent every other rafter bay is usually sufficient. However, if your roof design is a hip roof type---four angled sections, a ridge vent will not be sufficient. Adding the turbines will help. The limits of length for gutters is basically determined by the width of the fascia. The gutters need to be slanted slightly towards the downspouts. As a general rule, most single family design houses are not to long to require multiple downspouts ulless there is one on each end of the gutter run. (My house has down spouts on each end) Ask the insurer if they have any recommended installers. Ask neighbors and look at proposed contracts---you will be safer with a contract that details exactly what will be done----repairing/thickness of sheathing, inspecting /repairing fascia, adding/type of vents, inspecting/clearing soffit openings, type/brand/color of new shingles, 15 or 30 pound roofing felt, ice dam type/installation, installation of drip edge, disposal of old materials. You need to know if an installer has insurance, is licencsed/bonded, and how l;ong they have been in business. There are a lot of 'new' roofing companies that may do a job that looks good but did not do the basics that have to be done for a long term job.

Sorry not sure what the issue is , maybe take some pics from the other side and further back. IMO motorized screens really do not do much for bug control since the little buggers find the gaps. I also would not like the screen behind my grill. I need pictures of the whole space and how the spaces all relate to eachother

Hi Kathy, I can't comment on colors as I'm in my own color dilemma but both Sherwin Williams and Benjamin Moore have free programs on their websites where you can upload your picture and try different colors out. My problem was it was really hard for me to draw lines around things like window trim and gutters in order to color them but you may fare better since you are not painting the body of the home just the trim details. Good luck!

You mention orange but can't see any in your picture but maybe something like this can work for you... If possible either replace or cover in wood the two iron columns on the porch. Paint all trim including window frames and the flower box in the light greige, dark red door as an accent, black railings. I would paint the storm door the same colour as the front door. Perhaps you can replace your 2 sconces with larger ones of an more current style, Amazon has several inexpensive ones sold in sets of 2. Note: What ever colour you choose, keep in mind that they usually appear lighter once applied outdoor so be sure to make a sample prior to starting the project.