Bathroom tile in standup shower is uneven. How would you fix it?
Charlie Pinto
4 years ago
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live_wire_oak
4 years agoHALLETT & Co.
4 years agoRelated Discussions
old house; uneven floor - bathroom/subway tile...
Comments (4)Instead of running the narrower subway all the way to the floor, have you considered a wider ("taller") tile for the first course, to simply act as a baseboard or transitional piece from floor-to-field? Doesn't have to be an actual baseboard type of tile, or even a contrasting tile. The tile can be the same color as the subway should you prefer it to blend. It can be a simply 6" or 8" square field tile from the same manufacturer. As you know, blending colors may help with hiding a discrepancy, contrasting colors can accentuate it. On the flip side, you could separate the base from the field with a liner or some other detail that melds with details you have higher on the wall, at the chair rail for instance. Again, if the liner contrasts, it may accentuate. A basic 6" square tile, or to keep the subway shape, a 6" tall rectangle, would absorb the floor slope better than a "shorter" tile like your current subways. A 6" tile going from 5" to 6" would hide the discrepancy better than a small subway field tile going from 2" to 3". An 8" tile from 7" to 8" might be even better. If you were to use a true base cove tile like a sanitary cove base, use a basic sanitary instead of a shouldered sanitary, as the shoulder will be cut off due to the slope and that could create lippage or padding out issues as you go down the wall. Sometimes I've even used a taller painted wood baseboard to transition from a sloped floor to the field tile on the wall. An 8" tall wood baseboard scribed from say, 7" to 8" to hide the floor slope, with cap and base detailing, would pretty much hide any height discrepancy from the slope/scribing. The easiest and least expensive "all tile" solution would probably be a basic 6" square tile, scribed and cut from 6" to 5" as needed....See Morebathroom wall tiles uneven
Comments (20)I feel for you, OP. The tile work in both of my recently renovated baths is not what I expected (and I even chose tile to minimize lippage and other problems (ceramic, matching grout color, small and common size, tile guys favorite brand) - but still plenty of install issues), despite enormous cost (to me, not for my area). I dont have wisdom to help u fix it, unfortunately, but know this is common - all my friends talk about similar reno issues. Depending what it would cost to change the lighting, compared to cost of redoing the tile with smaller tile, if it was pricey either way I'd do the latter. I wish I had ripped out our master bath tile. Bugs me daily. PS no you aren't guaranteed to get perfectly straight walls with new wonder board. We are finishing 2nd of two new construction or full gut (including studs) master bath size bathrooms. All new studs, floor, walls, ceiling, insulation, durock, etc. Not one wall is perfectly plumb or straight - although most people cannot see that. I can because the 3x6 tile doesn't line up and/or isn't plumb in spots. Turns out wood studs aren't perfectly sized or straight, let alone human margin of error. Even if we had used metal studs, the gc showed why things wouldn't be perfect....See MoreHelp me fix these red tiles in master bathroom please!
Comments (28)I would choose a tile paint that would cover ONLY the red. Find a colour that would work for the bathroom (with floor pattern as-is) and then go ahead and paint JUST the red. But that means you would HAVE to change out the light/plug-in facing to the same colour (or match the wall tile colour). Personally (because I am cheap and lazy) I would look at large throw rugs (no backing...just natural fibres...you have in-floor heat) to cover up most of the floor. By leaving a bit of the red peeping out means you can leave the switch plates alone. If you are moving in 4 years, you can reassess in 3 years. Remember: if you are moving in a short amount of time, you are not the 'owner' you are designing for. You are trying to design for someone else. Someone you do NOT know. That's tough enough on it's own....See MoreRemodeling an uneven pentagonal mid size bathroom, advice for layout.
Comments (9)As in one of your options where you question the purpose of the 'powder room', it may not be the ideal solution but I think is worth considering. For 90% of the time when you have no guest, you could use the 'powder room' and the shower/vanity area as your ensuite. For the 10% when you have guests then the whole space becomes a J&J just like you have now. The advantage of this layout is that your guests have their own vanity and that they don't need to go to your master-ensuite unless they want to take a shower. This one is pretty much the same as above except that I switched the toilet and the vanity in the 'powder room' and changed your closet configuration to give you a larger vanity. The mirror closet is now part of your master closet but it can stay in the guest bedroom if you whish: I am not sure where you place your bed. Is it against the bathroom wall or the exterior wall? If it is against the bathroom wall, you could do the same in the guest bedroom with this layout....See Morecatbuilder
4 years agoCharlie Pinto
4 years agolive_wire_oak
4 years agoCharlie Pinto
4 years agolive_wire_oak
4 years agoGannonCo
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCharlie Pinto
4 years agoBeth H. :
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCharlie Pinto
4 years agolive_wire_oak
4 years agofelizlady
4 years agosusan smitih
3 years ago
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