We had 15" in our old kitchen and I hated it, but it really depends on how you're using the space. In our kitchen, it was the primary work space so I was always hitting the cabinets, and the stand mixer kept gouging the underside of the cabinet when I'd forget to pull it out all the way before flipping it back. But if, in contrast, you're using the space to house a microwave or toaster oven or what-have-you--16" will be fine (and better to have the storage space there). Don't forget that you can put three shelves in a 34" cabinet, too, though. We have three in a 32" cabinet and love it--every shelf doesn't need to have a full 12" of clearance. I can reach all of our shelves (intentionally designed that way) and we keep cans/jars on the lowest shelf since they don't need height. How tall are your ceilings? If you post that with a floor plan, I'm sure you will get lots of feedback and ideas on how to plan the cabinetry! If you're doing custom cabinetry, I wouldn't feel hemmed in by standards sizes and distances--one of the benefits is that you can mix it up and do what works best for your space.

Thank you everyone for the suggestions. The pictures really help. The White Taupe is so close! I had never heard of it, thank you. I only need a piece that is 50" x 50"! I think if I can't find a close enough match, I will have to have either a different material or interesting multilevel cabinet design. It is not a single run, it is a stand alone area next to the kitchen.

Update: I called the guy at the stoneyard (the nice, helpful one), and asked him if he could track down a remnant of a dif. slab from my lot. He did, but it won't be cut until mid next week, so I won't know if it's white/dark/etc. until then. I made sure to get the info of that fabricator, and the salesman also was calling my fabricator with the info. I just don't trust my fabricator to be honest. While I was waiting for the confirmation on remnants from that guy, I called the owner and expressed my utter dissatisfaction. Overall, I'd say that didn't go well in terms of his responsiveness. I told him I was appalled that I was asked to pay the balance. He didn't think that it was that off-base to ask me to pay since they are out money too. (Mind you I did pay 1/2 my total so far.) I made it clear that I will not be paying the balance until the job is complete and right. He's trying to say something to the effect of "Well, how much isn't done?" As if that matters. The fact is it is not done since they made errors. I don't think he was too happy that I was attempting to track down a remnant either. I again noted that my 1st slab was sold, and that I had to settle on this slab, to which he says if I don't like this slab I should have never got it. (My point apparently went right past his head.) Obviously I like this slab, but I liked my 1st slab better. I tried to explain that my deposit was put down knowing I was getting that specific slab. I noted that I also had to settle on their sink installation or risk it looking worse. I was sure to tell him about my interactions with the saleswoman. I explained that she was treating me poorly, and I'm not sure if she just treats everyone this way, or just me because I look young, have a small kitchen, etc. He said they've never had a complaint about her (who knows if that's true or not). I told him I will no longer deal with her because I will lose my cool. So anyway, I tried to install my bathroom faucet yesterday, and guess what now? The holes are drilled a bit uneven, so when I put in the faucet and handles (widespread) there's a larger gap between the faucet and cold water handle than the hot water handle. Part of the problem is the mounting piece for the faucet that doesn't give much room to center better. I think drilling the center hole a little larger will be an easy fix... But, while attempting the install of the faucet, I got to look real closely at that counter area. Apparently when they drilled the holes, they lost control of the drill and the bit dinged/gouged the sink counter 5 times between the hot water and center holes! (They are rounded divots.) They are pretty hard to see in the photo, but in real life they are pretty deep. I just can't win with this company! I can't believe I can't find any reviews online for them (positive or negative). I am tempted to join Angie's list just to see if there's any. I'm still waiting to call the owner to explain my new bathroom counter issues. I just don't think this is going to go well. I am thinking about giving him the option to work with me or letting him know I will go ahead and get a 3rd party (BBB). I was ready to let them know I wouldn't even worry about the remnant, and I'd just use that left piece pictured above. Now I think I will wait to at least see the remnant; it's only a few more days. Any new advice?

for the handles, may I suggest something to pick up on the hues in the flooring? A little more copper toned. you have light cabs, light floors. I think throwing in a dark ORB w/o actual copper highlights would be too much of a contrast. IMO. cypress park Sandra, I like the porcelain one better than the other one. Does the backsplash have to be done immediately? If the tones in the porcelain tile you picked clash w/the ivory tones in the counter, it could be a problem. However, I did find some copper toned ones that should be avail. these are porcelain/SS, and treated so as not to stain or tarnish. I LOVE these for your kitchen. timeless and gorgeous. They are probably not super cheap, but it would be worth it for me. http://www.miusartmosaics.com/arabesque-lantern-beacon-copper-tile-in these would also work. the site is here: maybe they have them in stock.http://www.westsidetile.com/arabesque-tiles/ i like this one too. notice the copper faucet. beautiful w/the glass mosaic. if you got the cream countertop, this would look amazing w/your floors. this last one is a copper colored slate/quartzite.