Riverspots, can you be more specific about 'tung oil preps'? Reason being that a lot of so-called 'tung oil finishes' contain zero tung oil. Mulemom--I'm planning to use real tung oil on my cabinets. Used tung oil on new wood window interiors that have been installed for three years & so far, so good. Refinished w/ tung oil some window frames which have been in service 4 or 5 years & those still look good. These are old windows that need replacing--leaky, lots of condensation & interior ice, even! Extreme conditions & I'm very satisfied w/ how the finish has held up. As an experiment, late last summer I used tung oil on the redwood side trays of my outdoor gas grill when I refinished them. They've been thru a lot of rain & snow over the fall & winter with no change in appearance. Anyway, I don't have any hesitation whatsoever about using tung oil on kitchen cabinets. More labor intensive, sure, but the results are worth it to me.

Young's from NH are carried by a lot of places- used to also be in box store- don't know if anymore. Here is a link that might be useful: Young's Furntiture

Stained cabinets with a proper water resistant/proof seal coat are much much less upkeep...but I too, get weary of encouraging folks to love the wood. Somehow laminate Ikea MDF board has taken over the youth who are building or flipping homes,and I am certain the paint factories are just loving it. Example: For 7 years, a good friend I have known. In 7 years, she has painted her cabinets 3 times! 'because they needed it'. For the First 30 years the house had stained cabinets...3 coats(more than that)3 painting events later, she just HIRED someone, to come in and replace the doors, and have them painted. In 7 years, 4 painting events in a kitchen. .. Would DRIVE ME CRAZY. Painting doors and drawers and hinges or removing hardware etc etc ....eliminate the kitchen totally and just have open stainless steel shelves(which you can dust weekly)with drawer under the stainless steel work surfaces. LOL. Red oak is very pretty and there is ALOT of it in this area, stained cabinets...WHite oak is nicer, BUT, harder to find for the export market gets most of it. Red Oak floors are very pretty. BUT you have to SAND IT SAND IT SAND IT. Oak is the most common wood in homes the past 40 years, with a sprinkling of ASH, Birch, and hickory, also, so that was news to me. And you do not want to finish it with a red tinged stain, likely... But, at least you did not have your cabinets built with 'stain grade' wood to 'save money'. THAT is a mess to paint. Voids and knotholes about, and if you are going to use 'paint grade' wood for your cabinets, than just plan on enjoying the rustic look in your home, which alot of people do enjoy. But few cabinet makers will reveal what those folks are really getting themselves into..

I refinished my own cabinets and used a good water based polyurethane. I do have a light stain on mine. The water based finish will change the wood the least, but you will want to experiment on the back of a drawer front to see what it will look like. I would head to your local reputable paint store (not home center store) to see what brand they recommend for you. Bring one of your doors with you to show the type of wood in case they recommend something else. Do not use an oil based product as it will amber / yellow the finish both right away and more over time. Make sure you remove doors and lay them flat. Use the correct brush for water based. Use several thin coats. It usually take 4 to 5 coats about 2 hours apart. Follow your product's directions. Do not panic after putting down the first coat - do it quickly and come back later - these products are self leveling and the brush lines pretty much disappear as it dries. Lightly dust with a tack cloth between coats. Do the backs of doors first - be sure nothing runs to the front and let them fully dry a day or two before flipping for the front. Patience is your friend here. I am very pleased with the finish on my cabinets.