Grass dies every fall
Brandon LaBonte
4 years ago
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Comments (11)
morpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
4 years agoroysterfam
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Peach tree dies back every year.
Comments (1)Add 3 pints fertilizer to soil out from tree trunk. Best way I can explain this is put heels to trunk and fertilize outward that way you will not fertilize close to trunk always fertilize peachtree after fruiting and before blooms set. Now that take care tree hungry by multiplying root count so feed top with water elments needed. At end of porch water fall can be way to high in winter months winter is when roots of peachtree die badly cause over wet soil. Following spring and summer crop and heat load on plant will in short time lesser roots pick all water up. First leaves to eye lost color and fall from tree bumping limb hand will release many leaves limbs and trunk are dieing at sametime this complete cycle caused by winter pastthere as many methods as they are to lower water to tree in area like this I want list them gutter maybe the easy answer....See MoreFall grass barely growing/new seed 26 days no germination
Comments (5)crouch- If you believe your soil is compacted, you should consider aerating as part of your late summer/early fall lawn care program. Try sticking a long (6" or so) screwdriver into your soil. If it is tough to get it in to the handle, you may well have a compaction issue. Not sure where in Jersey you are, but right around Labor Day is when I get into aerating/overseeding activities in CT. Cold overnight temps, shorter days, and an abundance of maple leaves makes October much too late around here for a high success rate with kbg overseeding. I was absolutely blown away with the results of my efforts last fall, which I moved up to Sept 2-4 (I know everyone says "fall overseeding," but "late summer" would be more precise). Of course I'd love to pat myself on the back as some sort of lawn guru, but the truth is we had pleasant days, not too cool nights, regular rain, etc. right into Thanksgiving! With crabgrass dying with the first good frost, I may not automatically reach for the roundup. I have found that cutting my existing crabgrass/lawn as short as possible and bagging/raking the clippings allows me to seed immediately without the use of roundup. If timed properly, the desirable seed germinates and gets strong enough in the fall so I can apply a pre-m in the spring to prevent the crabgrass seed from germinating. I wouldn't necessarily give up on it this year, but I can't expect you will get optimal results at this point either. I would heed billhill's advice about organic material and watering. KBG is a notorious slow germinator. I would also seriously consider having a soil test done. I understand you wanting to be able to mentally turn the corner on this one way or another and nobody likes to see their hard work go unrewarded. Maybe adjust expectations downward and hope to be pleasantly surprised now. Armed with the knowledge you can gain on this board, this may well be the last spring you need to endure lawn envy....See MoreTransplanting Perennials, Grasses, Fall Trimming or Not...
Comments (7)Thanks for the great suggestions and advice! I would love to try the Karl Foerster grsss, I googled it and it's really beautiful, I think I have admired those in various gardens around here this past year. We have a chain link fence around the perimeter of our very small back yard (which is about 20 x 40 ft), and if we decide not to spring for a wood privacy fence, that might be a good alternative to hide the chain link. Thanks for the advice about the lavendar - I didn't know about the woody plants only being pruned in spring, so it's a good thing I asked before hacking away out there! I'm glad to hear, actually, that I should wait till next Spring to transplant, I'm so swamped with work right now. The maiden grass is a real conundrum, my BF loves it and wants to keep it, but I can already see where the center area is thinner, and it flops a lot more than it used to. He will not like starting over with that initial "bare" look of new plantings, but it's taking up too much space in the front bed, and space is at a premium around here. Seems like everything the previous owners planted was done as a fast fix-up to sell the house, without regard to spacing or considering how plants would mature. I've made so many mistakes with my own plantings, too, that my garden never looks filled in and established, since I have to keep moving things. Those grasses were the one plant that looked full and lush, even though now they've gone a bit too far. One question on grass variety and color - they flank the main front window of the house, and we have a fieldstone facade, so the ligher green with the white stripe looks really nice with the stone. Since we have the lawn in front of the bed, I thought this was a more striking transition, rather than planting a tall grass that is also a darker green (though the plumes are to die for!) Are there any tall, upright varieties that would be less like the color of the lawn? I would be totally happy with this maiden grass if it would just stand up better. I do think I will end up staking it through Fall and Winter, anyway. Well, there's one of my squirrels out there waiting for her afternoon handout. Thanks again for the input!...See MoreGrass in raised bed develops fungus, dies. Poor drainage?
Comments (1)Contrary to common wisdom, putting gravel under the soil will make drainage worse. So save all that labor for a different project. Why do you think it stays so wet? What kind of soil or soil mix is in the planter? How deep is it?...See Moremorpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
4 years agoroysterfam
4 years agomorpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
4 years agoBrandon LaBonte
3 years agomorpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
3 years agoBrandon LaBonte
3 years agomorpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
3 years agomorpheuspa (6B/7A, E. PA)
3 years ago
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Brandon LaBonteOriginal Author