Julia, there's a reason why you involve pros w/tile layouts. Can you tell me what type of waterproofing was done under that shower tile? do you have any pictures? or do you know what was used? not that same purple stuff, I hope. Who decided to go this high w/the pony wall? look at the cut tile at the bottom. This would have looked better if you just shortened the half wall by 4-5 inches, and used a full tile. There's no reason it has to be that high. You work around the tile measurements so you don't have to get those tiny cuts. do you have a niche on the other side? why exactly are you deadset on LVP on this floor? whatever you used is going to butt right up against that busy tile, so make sure it matches. What are you going to use for molding where those two meet? you'll have to cut the LVP. you'll need a 100% silcone caulk for that joint to waterproof it, but what are you going to use to hide the cut edges? It also looks like you have a low spot way off to the left.

@Benjamin Brazier - Sorry you are having this problem too. Yes, the EVA foam was too hard for me. The foam tiles I now have are 5/8". I've only had them for a few weeks so I can't really speak to their wear and tear. But, I do have 60lb dog and his nails have not made any kinds of dents or tears in the material. I'd order two squares and try them out. Maybe try gouging them with a sharp object to see how they stand up to sharp pet nails. I tried to get my dog's nails trimmed last week so as prevent damage to the foam tiles but his are so well filed from walking on city concrete sidewalks they couldn't do more trimming. I just got an order of 255 more tiles and will complete our entire apartment this weekend.

I see you've decided on a prep and recoat. That's a great idea, as it will extend the life of your floor. They can only be sanded so many times. After your kids are grown and your existing finish is worn, if you're tired of the dark red, bleaching could be a viable option for a fresh start. If you search here for "bleached brazilian cherry", you'll find a bunch of previous posts with good information, along with sample pictures. Bleaching is a very effective way to lighten Brazilian Cherry and reduce the red. It does NOT need to be stained after bleaching, but it can be stained to even out or adjust the color. The floor does darken but it NEVER comes back anywhere near as dark, nor as red. I first experimented with the process for a client who wanted Teak, using a product that was harder, cheaper and more readily available. I suspect I have more experience with bleaching Brazilian cherry than anyone else here, having done it for over 20 years. It's not an "intense process", nor even particularly tricky. We use the same two-part bleach (sodium hydroxide + hydrogen peroxide) as on white finished floors we've been doing for 50+ years. The only significant difference bleaching BC is that it doesn't soak in the bleach like Oak. The person applying it must rub until almost dry or it can leave black spots. Puddles, streaks and bubbling from joints will do the same thing. If this happens an extra coat can be applied. FYI, one never applies "1 to 2 bleaches". Two coats is always the minimum, with the second coat rectifying any laps or inconsistencies in the first coat. One other challenge, which it shares with all bleached wood floors, is that bleach bubbles up the newer style trowelable fillers, so any open cracks or joints must be puttied between coats of urethane. The first pic below is from a house where most of the floors were Oak, but the kitchen and dining room were old engineered BC longstrip. The second pic is a 10+ year old bleached sample sitting on an unbleached BC floor finished with Bona Naturale. The left side is sealed with Bona Classicseal and coated with non-yellowing waterborne urethane, while the right side is finished with old school oil poly. The floor in the third pic was about 13 years old and we refinished it last year with Bona Classicseal and coated it with non-yellowing waterborne urethane. As you can see, the more variation a floor has before bleaching, the more it will show after, unless it is stained.

Thanks! We have decided against the shorter tiles. @eld6161 I had actually read that whole article previously and thought that my cabinets had warm yellow undertones (they’re a natural maple but with a coffee glaze or something like that) so the floors seemed to have the same and then the cabinets don’t have a very strong grain so the grain in the floor wouldn’t compete/clash. What color would you say my cabinets undertones are? What about the floors? Here is a pic of the floor we are currently leaning towards (there is only one plank and the rest were the shorter planks) I am going to go tomorrow to buy a box and lay out, etc. I appreciate the suggestions for other flooring options but we are really set on wood look tile. We’ve put it in, in two previous homes and love the warmth and look of wood with the durability of tile.