Above range cabinet
Alice Edwards
4 years ago
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Comments (25)
Alice Edwards
4 years agoAlice Edwards
4 years agoRelated Discussions
16" deep wall cabinets ok above range?
Comments (4)Both wall and base cabinets will be custom. Using a guy locally who is able to get them done at a good price. It's a small kitchen and condo so trying to maximize storage and countertop space. I think I'll lop off 3" from each wall cabinet adjacent to the hood. I lose a little space but I looked at lots of pictures and I prefer that look over the hood squeezed in tightly. Thanks for your comments....See MoreCabinet Modification Above Range?
Comments (19)Am I the only one who doesn't dislike the black backsplash? Gee. For more suggestions on the backsplash especially, repost on the kitchen forum. http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/kitchbath Anyway, are you doing any work that requires a permit? If not, it doesn't matter what code is; it's just a matter of what's safe and pleases you. GCs sometimes go on autopilot, I've noticed. (Is his name Anthony?)...See MoreMy white kitchen cabinets above the range are starting to yellow.
Comments (13)First, the design is not sufficiently deep to provide good capture area. It’s a pretty bad hood design. Read about good hood design. https://www.houzz.com/discussions/2315922/wall-hoods-for-wok-cooking Second, the fact that you don’t know anything about the insert says that it’s the cheapest worst quality that they could buy. Because... Third. The Site painted cabinets coated with house paint are the cheapest possible route for a builder to go. So, that’s hand in hand with all of the above. It’s completely the wrong way to go for any type of durability or quality. But it looks good enough for a while. Enough to get you past the one year warranty. Sometimes. What you needed was a custom maker who finished in his clean room to KCMA standards. Or a manufactured line that was tested to KCMA standards. https://www.kcma.org/certifications/ansi-kcma-standard Fourth. The finish that was there was ruined by the sandpaper abrasiveness of the Magic Eraser and the chemicals in PineSol. Pine oil is a terrible contaminant that blocks adhesion of any future finish. Someone could try to repaint those, but the existing contamination would bleed through and create issues with fisheye, bubbling, and just general adhesion. For a for now fix, I’d remove the hood and buy a stainless one. It at least will be better ventilation, and cleanable. It addresses the immediate issue, and upgrades the style to a more modern direction both. Long term, the rest of your cabinets will experience the issues that your hood cabinet has. The builder gave you below industry standard quality. It will not wear well. Having all of that contaminated porous coating sanded back to bare wood to start over with a higher quality and more durable coating will cost more than buying new cabinets. It’s very labor intensive. If the existing coating was primed with the right stuff, and is adhering well enough now, and hasn’t been too contaminated by oils or silicone, then it might be possible to have them recoated with a professional grade coating at a later time. That would run you roughly 10K + for the cabibets in your house. How much + depends on how many cabinets and the details. I’d reserve judgement on that project for a few years and just live with what is, and a new stainless hood, for now. And never ever scrub anything with a magic eraser, or use pine sol on anything that isn’t non porous. Or bleach. Or any one of a half dozen cleaners that ruin finishes and should only be used on non porous surfaces. Dusting with a soft dampened microfiber is all most cabinets should need. If there has been spills, or you don’t fix your inadequate ventilation and have grease floating around attaching itself, then Dawn, a microfiber, and then rinsing the detergent residue, should be all of the big guns ever needed on cabinets. They are furniture. In your kitchen. But half the junk you use on your furniture isn’t needed and is bad for it too. So no oil anything. No pledge. No freaking oil soap. Or orange glow. Or anything that has oil or silicone in it anywhere. No abrasives. Do you know that paper towels with recycled content are abrasive? Don’t use them on cabinets or furniture. Most “furniture care” products damage things. Planned obsolescence to keep the consumer buying at maximum....See MoreWhy are Range Hoods mounted with no cabinets above?
Comments (7)It's for looks but, why not? The available storage above a range hood can be fairly small and of low quality. In the average 30" wide by 24" tall cabinet used above a range, 12 or more linear inches of the "storage" will be taken up by hood guts. You wont' be able to have a shelf in it because it will be cut by the hood and the duct. The rest of it may get really warm when the range runs - particularly when the hood is running. I have never seen a hood cabinet that contained anything of merit except greasy dust. The ductwork is usually left exposed in the cabinet and it' warms things up. Not catch on fire hot, but warm enough to ruin spices or books or other fragile things. You might be able to route the ductwork in a magic way or find a magic hood that doesn't need ductwork. Others have, but I don't know of any hoods like that. But sometimes there are other considerations - it you want the cabinet above to match depths with the rest of the wall cabinets, you might end up with a hood that doesn't work very well because it won't be able to cover the entire surface of the range. It is suggested that you cover the range plus some extra, so a cabinet for a hood for people who cook a lot or with a lot of power will stick out further than wall cabinets. And it's fair for you to trade performance for looks or a little bit more space if it's important to you. But that's part of why people go cabinet free, or turn it into a mantle look or whatever they like to solve the ventilation problem and have it look good....See MoreAlice Edwards
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Alice EdwardsOriginal Author