Staining Maple Stair caps to match LVP which is urban oak
Jennifer P
4 years ago
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Comments (14)
G & S Floor Service
4 years agoPPF.
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Help! Sealer from manufacturer doesn't match for island.
Comments (51)Yikes - i gotta go (have my coat on, I don't know why I checked back after emailing Y about DD's dance class tomorrow). Merillat mentioned sanding sealer that is only used when sanding soft woods - it stiffens the wood fibers so you can sand smoother. Not usually used on oak. Sealcoat is a "sanding sealer" b/c it can be used that way but really I don't want you to sand the veneer much at all. I am telling you to use it (if you want) b/c I found it made the oak a little smoother w/o totally filling in the grain like a grain filler, and it is harder than poly, will make the finish more durable than poly alone w/o putting on lots of thick (multiple thin coats) poly. you thin (and clean) shellac with denatured alcohol. You can let excess dry in container and then throw it out. Rags can be thrown out (in small quantities) when thoroughly dry. Sealed in water you'd have to check with town about hazardous waste (same with leftover stain, paint). That's why I have multiple cans sitting in my garage LOL. Clean the shellac brush by pouring alcohol into clean PB jar, swishing the brush around - you can pour the cloudy shellac into your metal can with lots of water for disposal, or pour it into another container and let it evaporate. Pour more alcohol into jar, swish until clear. then wash brush in mild soap and water, hang bristles down to dry. It may dry a *little* stiff, but you should be able to soften it by flexing bristles with your hand. if they "crack" rather than flex, you've still got shellac in the brush and need to clean with alcohol again. you *can* just stain and apply the polycrylic if you want to, straight out of the can I'd do 2-3 coats (which may end up looking plasticky but you can try wiping off the last coat like I did on my island trim), if you use the wipeon stuff you'll need 6 coats minimum, and you're *supposed* to sand b/t coats to get it to stick so I'm really leary of telling you to sand that much. You can do 1 coat of regular Sealcoat over stain, sand *lightly*, then 2 coats rolled on poly (barely sand b/t coats). That *should* be enough protection - at least until you have kids and they kick their feet against the island LOL. I'll check back after 1 pm....See MoreStaining pine stairs
Comments (13)That's as close as I could get, sometimes I think it would look better with more contrast b/t the risers and the treads since the grain is so different, why even "pretend" it's the same wood by staining it the same color? But all my baseboards, trim are pine, the Minwax Honey Maple was the best I could do to get pine to match waxed oak treads and Cider oak cabinets in kitchen. Preconditioner may be easier for you to work with than shellac. If builder has contract to stain the stairs, then ask him if it includes using preconditioner to minimize blotchiness. Also, I would recommend a really tough finish on the treads - I've heard Minwax Fast Drying Poly for Floors isn't bad, though I haven't used it. They took the high-VOC good stuff off the market (at least here in CT). Faron recommended Zar Ultra oilbased Poly (if you can find it) for my windows - I got a can of it thinking I'd try it on treads before they stopped shipping it this winter but maybe you can find a can on local Ace shelf, if builder will use instead of his preferred Minwax products. If you ask here and on Flooring forum, you'll get a whole lot of recommendations on what to use for finish - I'm tending toward Waterlox varnish now that I've seen my cousin's floors. But it all depends on what your builder is willing to use. Shee - my treads are wedged in tightly to the skirtboard, attached to risers with finish nails (you can see the holes, at least they're sunk). Since the stairs were preassembled and not built on site, they may also be screwed in from the sides/back but I have no way of telling....See MoreProvenza LVP in road trip?
Comments (548)https://www.prosourcewholesale.com/products/vinyl/resista-plus-h2o/drifter_11820030101677_40762588?fbclid=IwAR3Dey5pZpWyBZ9SoamAh6q4lpgcUlNwBBCdXXOuC9WrNE8618Rxm7TZoYI for the Resista Plus H2O EVP 9"x72" Drifter Vinyl Flooring 6 colors available Color: Drifter...See MoreAnyone Install Coretec Grande Goldin Oak
Comments (273)@autumnjohnson no, I really didn't notice until you said something. I think once all the planks are put down, it kind of blends in. I found the floors to be much more beautiful once they were installed versus the store samples. My mom installed Coretec Ravenswood Oak, and she didn't care for some of the distressing on hers, which come to found out, mine have to. Again, I didn't notice until she said something about it. Now if every plank had the same markings, that would be different. There are some planks that I love better than others, but overall, this flooring is beautiful, and I can't say enough about durability. No scratches or dents and we've been here for 8 months. My only complaint is that it was difficult for the installers because they said it was more rigid than standard LVP (not to mention heavy!). It is essential for the planks to be line up perfectly or there will be gaps. There were several gaps that they had to fix before moving in, and there are new ones that I will be having them address at our 1-year check-in. I would make sure whoever installs your floor is experienced and comfortable with this type of thick flooring and be sure to order extra. I don't think this is a flaw of the flooring, but rather the installation, and the nature of floating floor. Gaps will occasionally occur....See MoreJennifer P
4 years agoSJ McCarthy
4 years agoJennifer P
4 years agoHALLETT & Co.
4 years agoJennifer P
4 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoJennifer P
4 years agoJennifer P
4 years agoG & S Floor Service
4 years agoCharles Ross Homes
4 years agoJennifer P
4 years ago
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