Improving on a mature, but somewhat chaotic landscape
A Fox
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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Patricia Colwell Consulting
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Comments (16)Thanks again everyone... I have done a scale drawing of the front yard and mapped the existing plantings. I'm definitely a planner. I actually did a scale drawing of the front yard, driveway and house (bird's eye view) and then did a larger scale drawing of the existing front bed. It doesn't look like much and is a little hard to see in this scanned image, but I put a good bit of time into it. I spent a lot of time with my tape measure, pencil and eraser! 1 square = 5 ft I have read (cover to cover)the Southern Living Landscape Book, Southeast Home Landscaping from the Creative Homeowner Series and The Complete Idiots Guide to Landscaping (did I just admit that?). I have the Better Homes and Gardens Landscape and Deck Designer software, but it is not user friendly enough for me and I have all but given up on that. Pencil and paper seem to be quicker and easier for me to work with. I also played around with the standard Windows paint program and the photo of the house from the curb. I wanted to get an idea of how the symmetrical beds would sort of look. Here is what I came up with I know I need different heights, etc. in the beds. I think the symmetrically placed beds make a big difference. Thanks again for pointing that out. I know it seems obvious, but when you've been living with something for a while it can be tough to see the obvious. I will try your "3x3 block here, low and spreading here" approach. Maybe that is my hang-up. I keep trying to figure out what plants should go where and I need to think first in terms of size, height, etc. The hostas and sedum we put in were ones that I bought last year in a moment of weakness and needed to get out of their pots. I think they'll look nice where they are for now and I told my husband that they are temporary in that location. We are definitely getting estimates on having the walk re-done. I think broad deep steps that curve farther out toward the driveway would be nice and I had already thought that incorporating bricks would tie in nicely with the house. We need to have a new driveway installed, so that would probably be done at the same time. My husband and I already had the "hardscape comes first" discussion. I agree that it will make a significant difference. Not to mention the fact that I would prefer to plant once and not move things if I can avoid it. Have I mentioned the roots in our front yard? The 40 foot pine tree we removed had such a massive root system. I have talked to a designer in our area to get an idea of how she works and we also have a landscaper in the neighborhood that we will get estimates from on the walk and possibly the front yard layout. I wanted to try to do it myself first. If I don't feel confident enough with whatever I come up with, we will hire the designer to draft a plan that we can implement over time. Gottagarden, I linked that retaining retaining in my favorites the other day after seeing it on another post. I saw several walls on that site that I like. My husband and I have been talking about doing exactly what you say. The expense of that would be the only drawback for us. The drawing I did in Paint doesn't show it well, but that is what I had in mind when I did that drawing. Thanks again everyone. I really value your input....See MoreHelp! I need landscaping advice.
Comments (9)Bonnie, is the soil in your area made of clay or sand? I have clay--- hard pack clay. That was the first thing I had to deal with when I started my garden beds. I did a variety of things to get going. One might say I was obsessed. I tried all the techniques to set up new beds in a hurry. I came away knowing for certain, that the double digging technique is a necessary first step - one that was advocated to by Geoff Hamilton (a garden great). These are my experiences so far.... With the front yard, I somewhat cheated and hired a landscaper to install stone pavings for the walkway. In this case I had him remove all the lawn grass and topdress it with triple mix topsoil. I had not instructed him to rototill it into the ground (but on hindsight I should have). I took several shortcuts with this job because I had several potted plants that needed to go into the ground. Already I was delayed by more than a month in planting the perennials. So instead of tilling all the topsoil into the hardpack clay layer, I spot tilled it. whereever I planned to place my perennials I dug a big enough hole and basically tilled the topdressing, manure, bonemeal into the area. Unfortunately this front bed had a slope and so several bouts rainy weather resulted with soil erosion. I was constantly having to clean the sidewalks. So to remedy the problem, I addressed the area which was most vulnerable and installed a plastic lawn edger, slightly raised to prevent the water from entering the beds. Weedcloth was added to keep topsoil in place. Horizontal trenches throughout the bed to slow the flow of water. I used coconut coir to help slow water and act as mulch too. I then planted perennials with deep root capabilites to help break the flow and also to help hold the soil. Only then did I start planting the annuals to fill out the empty spaces. I would say, this front yard bed is now very pleasing. The backyard is another dilemma. Most recent as of today. I created 4 garden beds there. One by the backfence. Here I piled on upturned grass sods which were taken from other bed site. I left the grass here to rot and mixed it with topsoil and compost. It's largely made of clay and broken down with compost. At first it was a really ugly looking pile but now that the sods have broken down, planted with shade lovign plants, the area looks great and thriving The bed by the side of the fence, I dug the sod (used in the backfence bed) and clay out entirely and filled it with compost, topsoil, rotted manure. I used a newspaper layer to kill off the remaining grass. _-- result -- NOT TOO GOOD. Plants were stunted. It might as well be Sahara desert located in the middle of a jungle. The bed that lies next to this bed, was double dug. I got lazy and simply left much of hte clay in place, broke it up and added my topsoil, compost, manure nd builder's sand mix. The results were great. These 2 beds are constantly being affected by water that is coming from my neighbors yard and this is the problem I am now facing. I may need to raise the beds instead and somehow try to see what I can do to prevent the neighbor's water from flooding my area. Despite that, the bed with the 50%clay matter & 50% organic matter works wonderfully, while the other bed with 95% organic matter is not. Plants have suffered. Almost no earthworms in that area which means something is definitely not healthy about it. I can only speculate that there are some trace nutrients I wasn't able to address when putting in the topsoil - or perhaps that the topsoil is of poor quality. Or that the rain managed to wash away any trace nutrients. So the lesson in my story... Clay is good and double digging continues to be my preferred technique. Use topsoil from good garden centres, don't cheapen on it....See MoreHere it is....the proposed landscape backbone!
Comments (46)Here is my latest update...sure I'll continue to tweak but at least most of the selections are made (nothing mail order this go around). Still struggling a bit with the speciman conifer next to the house. I want the red fruit of the crabapple to pop off the backdrop confier (when there isn't any snow). Any suggestions on any plants is appreciated! All plants shown at about 30 year spreads. A = Picea abies AA = Aesculus 'Autumn Splendor' AG = Acer griseum (the one plant I took from my old house) AP = Aesculus Pavia #5 AS = Acer saccharumàâÂÂLegacyâ or âÂÂGreen Mountainâ BE = Acer negando (existing - cutting down in 2-3 years) CC = Cercis canadensis #5 CJ = Cercidiphyllum japonicumàCK = Cornus kousaàCR = Carpinus caroliniana #5 G = Picea glauca var densata GB = Ginkgo bioblia âÂÂAutumn Goldâ GG = Thuja Green Giant LT = Liriodendron tulipifera MJ = Magnolia 'Jane' NS = Nyssa sylvatica #5 O = Picea omorika OV = Ostrya virginiana #5 P = Picea pungens PC = Pinus cembra or Abies concolor or Abies koreanea or Picea abies âÂÂCupressinaâ or Picea OrientalisâÂÂAureospicataâ PG = Picea glauca (existing - cutting down in 2-3 years) PP = Asimina triloba PS = Pinus strobus #5 QB = Quercus bicolorà#5 QE = Quercus ellipsoidalis #5 S = Pinus strobus #5 ST = Malus âÂÂSugar Tymeâ or âÂÂPrairifireâ TA = Tilia amerciana (existing) TD = Taxodium distichum #5...See MoreLandscape Design Help / Advice in Northeast Florida (Zone 9A)
Comments (24)Yes, I understand that the immediate intention for the play area is not to install a play set. But it's coming eventually and do you want the planting scheme to do dual duty by working now and also be ready for the future without any major alterations? Or do you want to subject yourself to the possibility of making a lot of changes when a play set is installed? A year is NOT a long time. As the play area develops, it is divided from the planting area with a bed line. The bed line is something to be figured out now, on the plan (as information about the play set/area becomes known.) The bed line divides places where people could possibly walk ("floors": lawn, low groundcover, mulch-only) from places where they couldn't ("walls" & "furniture": shrubs, perennials and tall groundcovers.) Trees ("ceilings") could be located in either areas Another possibility with the pitts is to cut them down and do a total rejuvenation -- where you control/shape their re-growth (which will happen very quickly since they already have developed root systems) -- and trim them so as NOT to reach way out into the yard. Let them grow as a much narrower hedge which is later trimmed into tree forms and reaches and screens above the fence. Based on some of the prior discussion, I'm going to speculate that one potential problem that could come up is not devoting enough depth to the planting beds (that are likely to surround most of the yard.) In general terms, this bed(s) ought to be allowed 6' depth as an average minimum. There are usually instances where it can easily be deeper, and possibly some instances where it can be shrunk to 4' when sacrifices must be made. Plants require space and trying to maintain a bed that is too skinny/shallow is not only difficult & more demanding of maintenance, but it doesn't look very good either. That's something to be mindful of....See Moretfitz1006
4 years agoA Fox
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoA Fox
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoLyndee Lee
4 years agoYardvaark
4 years agoMissi (4b IA)
4 years agoA Fox
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