Well, It's in the ground! It was certainly ready for a transplant, just starting to get a little potbound, the rootball held together quite well. Here's a new question that may be unanswerable due to the east-west divide: How much water a week should this get in the ground? I have an israeli style drip irrigation system, relatively rare in the east, mainly for my many containers. So I can add a drip emitter on the figs roots. Right now I drip 1/2 hr every other day, so a 1 gal/hr emitter would give a 1/2 gal. Or I can just leave it alone and see how it does from rainfall and the biweekly or so lawn sprinkler. I hope it doesn't mind occasional rain flooding, it's near the rain gutter outfall (truly the only place I had to plant it). The rose that was there seemed to survive the water fine.

I don't have good answers for you, but now I know the name of the weed that's infested parts of my lawn and some of my beds! Thanks! Honestly I've had very poor luck controlling with herbicide. It requires repeat applications over a few seasons to significantly reduce an established infestation. I've used both Roundup (non-lawn areas) and Weed B Gone Max (lawn areas) with limited success. In beds I have found manual control (hand-pulling) much more successful. It takes diligence. You need to pull in the correct conditions and do so frequently. With shallow-rooted rhizome plants, when you pull don't think of pulling up, think of pulling sideways. Find the densest cluster and that's where your main root mass probably is. Start from the edges and pull towards the direction of that root mass. Work when the soil is loosest. That would be after rain for heavy soils, and after a dry spell for loose soils. Again, start from the edge and work towards the center. While you are gaining control, pull any flowered plants even if they break and you know they'll grow back. Pull slowly and carefully to try to get as much root as possible. Any remaining roots will resprout, so what you want to do is each day where you have time to weed, go back over the spots you've already done before working in towards the worst areas. The goal is to kill it off from the outside in by getting any new plants from runners (which might be quite far from the main plant). This prevents the patch from getting bigger while you're working in exhausting the main plant. I did use spot Roundup after lots of hand-pulling. I've had great success with this method in beds with both sheep sorrel and mugwort. The key is to work on it at least a couple times a week and be diligent about it, always working from the lightly infested areas in towards the center and never letting the new offshoots get the chance to establish deeper, thicker roots. You might try a pre-emergent to keep new seeds from sprouting, but I haven't researched their effectiveness against this weed.

Couple of thoughts: For effective erosion control, you need an evergreen plant. Nearly every part of the country (except maybe the southwest) gets a reasonable amount of rain in winter and that's when most of the erosion happens. Or in early spring before things have leafed out. I can't think of ANY groundcover that has a particularly long bloom period - a month at best in most cases (except maybe iceplant, Delosperma, but doesn't sound like enough sun for that to be happy. And you want a groundcover that roots as it goes. That's where the erosion control comes into play also - you need a dense, spreading root system to hold the soil in place. Lithodora is not a bad suggestion. Not an exceptionally long bloom time - finished in my area by late spring/early summer. Screaming blue flowers. But it is evergreen and each plant can spread to about 3-4'. The only drawback is it can look pretty ratty after winter and generally needs a good grooming/cutting back, which could prove tricky on that slope. And not all that effective at keeping weeds at bay. It's rather loosely knit in its growth habit and weeds come up easily in between the stems/runners. My favorite ground cover for this situation is creeping raspberry, Rubus calycinoides. Has a very directional flow to its growth so will appear to flow down the slope. Evergreen, with a great foliage texture and bronze winter coloring. It layers upon itself making a thick mat so ideal for weed suppression. But flowering is sporadic, the occasional white strawberry-like flower followed by an edible gold berry. Not the slightest bit invasive, either.

I use chicken grit that is granite chips (the colored grit is some decorative stones that were mixed in). I use mix of grit and perlite and some turface for all my succulents. Aquarium pebbles are usually bigger, much smoother (maybe that decorative grit is aquarium gravel? - not sure) and often colored. Here is photo of chicken grit: Some plants will root faster than others. So it also depends on which leaves you are propagating. I have done it on top of mix of perlite and some C&S soil too, but usually do not bother setting it up like that any more: Here are the same leaves I showed on April 9, that were on a black plastic cover, (I put them on a terracotta saucer) plantlets are bigger now (I didn't do anything with them, didn't water):If I wanted to keep growing them (not sure if I will - have plenty of plants, haha), I would probably put them on top of the mix and sprinkle little of it on top of the roots . It could be also just perlite or pumice if you have some. Or any mix you are using, juts put very light cover.