wood vinyl/laminate floor with lots of interest or more plain
mamaandsage
4 years ago
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mamaandsage
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Flooring Questions: Laminate? Luxury Vinyl like Karndean?
Comments (45)Magg5412 that's lovely! wow. It's been 3 years already since I posted my question and finally went with wood laminate that was less expensive than the luxury vinyl I wanted. We went with Pioneer laminate from Flooring Liquidators (sweetwater) my husband installed himself starting the day we got keys. The 18" tile floor the builder put in kitchen & baths looked so nice that my DH just wouldn't agree to ripping it up for my 'vision' of uninterrupted wood floors. (I just paid a service to steam clean all my ceramic tile where grout got too dirty for me to get it really clean--well worth it!) im in the middle of repainting inside of my house so no good pix. but the 3 years of wear on the laminate only shows where water got spilled near a plant and no one saw. Sweep. Mop. Done....See MoreChoosing between laminate and vinyl plank flooring
Comments (8)We recently were faced with the same decision for our new build. I was almost completely sold on going with Coretec LVP, but after doing more research on both Coretec and the higher end laminates (12mm that are water-resistant), we ended up selecting laminate. Both were identical in price for us so pricing wasn't a factor for us. For me, the biggest pros of LVP: Better traction in socks, perhaps slightly more water-resistant (but they are NOT waterproof), softest underfoot. LVP Cons: Many have a slight vinyl-like sheen to them that bothered me (Coretec included). Installation guide/warranties always mention not allowing direct sunlight through a window hit your floors because it's vinyl afterall and will expand and contract -- major issue for me. Even Coretec which I consider one of the best visuals for LVP in terms of mimicking real wood doesn't hold a torch to the high end laminates. Laminate pros: It's been around for a very long time and the higher end ones are durable, water-resistant (able to be damp mopped -- but neither laminate nor LVP should be steam mopped). The particular brand we bought has a core similar to Coretec (hence the water-resistance) and also has a 2mm pad attached. It is rated safe to use in bathrooms and kitchens. Coretec has a cork backing which is also good. Laminate looked a little more realistic to me in terms of the sheen it has (more matte) and the particular laminate we compared to Coretec sounded less clicky when walked on believe it or not. Coretec sounded a bit more plastic-like which surprised me. Laminate cons: Many are not water-resistant so it depends on what you buy. You get what you pay for. It's a little more slippery in socks than LVP. I'm not sure if there are any other big cons. Ultimately, you get what you pay for with both types of flooring. They both can and will scratch. Our laminate did not mention keeping direct sunlight away from it whereas most (if not all) LVPs do so that was a factor for us. I think we would have been happy with either floor, but ultimately the laminate won for us because of the sunlight issue as well as it looking more realistic. Also, just something to consider, several local flooring companies talked about the LVP floors denting from very heavy objects (bookcases, dining table, sofa legs, etc and not being able to recover where laminate doesn't have that issue as often. I knew it could dent but was surprised to hear the LVP floors didn't slowly recover over time. Oh, and also pay attention to the installation span distance for each brand of flooring you consider. Some laminates can only span a distance of 33ft or so before needing a transition strip (ours can go 66ft so we will not need transition strips). I believe Coretec can go 60+ft as well. I'm not sure about other LVP flooring brands....See More“wood look” tile vs. vinyl/laminate/PVC which is better?
Comments (13)Tile worked better for my home. I tried some vinyl in a couple of rooms, a few years ago, but my old, large dogs had trouble getting purchase to rise. If you're on a slab do the moisture tests to determine if glue down or floating is the way to go. You don't want mold growing underneath or installation failure. If you choose tile, make sure they leave an expansion gap around the perimeter and don't grout up to the baseboards. Every person I interviewed did it that way as a matter of course. I removed the baseboards and reinstalled them, to ensure I had the gap and a nicer finish than shoe mould. I also told him where I wanted the movement joint where the flooring ran longer than 20-25 feet. I'm extending this tile into other areas, with the current reno, and have indicated where the expansion joints will go, because they never use them. For the kitchen, watch the clearances for any under-counter appliances. They might not fit! Tile raises the height of the floor more than LVP will. My project manager wanted to install my flooring after the cabinets, which wouldn't have worked out well for the tall tub dishwasher. I think he rolls his eyes over my requests, a lot. A helpful link about tile movement. The tile I chose is Mohawk Stage Pointe and has high texture and shading variation. The grout color is the darkest of the shades and hides any staining that might occur. The close-up pic is how it looks IRL. Second is of the room right after install. I love wool area rugs and they dampen sound nicely, as well as providing softness underfoot. Most of the floor in the second pic was covered by an 11x14....See MoreFlooring Help! wood vs vinyl vs laminate
Comments (6)We have gone back and forth on this as well- we are doing a major dining, living, kitchen remodel. We have decided to go with a beautiful wide plank engineered hardwood (French oak) from Bella cera called “Monza” bivio. It’s just light and natural and I think will look beautiful with our white cabinets. It’s a wire brushed engineered hardwood which I like more than the rustic hand scraped ones. It was very affordable at less than $4/SF. We have had a few people try to discourage real wood in the kitchen but my parents have had knotty pine floors for 30 year and they’ve held up fairly well and have been refinished twice. The only thing with engineered wood is the top layer is fairly thin with plywood underneath, so you can’t really refinish them but most wont need to be since they have a 25-50 yr residential warranty. I chose one that had some knots and grains and looked like it’d be forgiving. Some of the new lvt is more expensive but really pretty, I can just tell it’s not real wood and it feels a little plasticky and I just like natural materials. My friend has it in her yoga studio and for that application I think it’s great. The only thing I am nervous about is not being able to steam mop my kitchen and having to use wood cleaner with a microfiber mop. But I like rustic and genuine surfaces- we went with granite and are refinishing Saltillo. It’s not perfect but I’m just a natural materials person. You really can’t go wrong! But I think wood floors are always better for resale personally. The new vinyl is great though, and I would def do it in a bathroom, playroom, mud room, but don’t love it throughout the main house. Laminate is ok, but I don’t like the clickety clack sound when you walk on it, and I can almost always immediately tell something is laminate vs wood....See Moremamaandsage
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3 years agoSherrie Toth
2 years ago
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