Is this bulb sick?
4 years ago
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- 4 years agonewhostalady Z6 ON, Canada thanked popmama (Colorado, USDA z5)
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Helping Sick Bulb
Comments (5)Its good that someone has probably identified it so you can care for it as it should be. I had a similar experience with a 'found' bulb...in Florida while walking near out condo, it was on the sidewalk and wanting to keep the place clean I pick it up. Having nowhere to throw it I put it in my pocket, then forgot about it. I brought it home in the pocket and discovered it while putting things away...then I made the mistake of planting it. A horror movie could have been made, this thing took off like h*ll and didn't stop. I finally was able to dig enough of it out and Roundup did the rest. I later saw this same bulb growing in the County Park engulfing a tree--literally burying it in its foliage. They speak of the plant that ate America...Kujo...or something like that, but this was a monster from Hades....See Moresick Bulbophylum odoratissimum
Comments (4)I am in New York City, so partial shade is the rule for my guys (for better or worse), water and fertilizer are weakly weekly or when the medium is truly dry. I have relatively good control over the temperature since my orchids are in a small case so I watch carefully that they dont get too cold. The medium (spagnum moss) is very open though I did notice that the moss was not drying out and so I removed some of the bulk. I have plenty of new growth on quite a few of my other bulbophyla (is that the plural?) - and my longissimum is even in bloom (!!!!) so I dont think there was a sudden cold in the case, but is this plant especially sensitive? Could it have needed more fertilizer? Thank you richardol!...See Moresick bulb - suggestions needed
Comments (3)So, the bulb feels more like it's depleted... but it's not rotten, correct? Sort of like an onion that's a little dried out, with loose layers? If this is the case, take a small artist's paintbrush and paint some rooting hormone powder on the bottom to help promote new roots to grow. Then, paint or sprinkle some Captan or other anti-fungal powder on the bulb, especially around the bottom half. Re-pot the bulb, leaving about half the bulb above soil level. Give it a drink, taking care not to get water on the bulb... water the soil top, in other words. Place the pot in a sunny location and let it be. If the basal plate and the bulb are not rotted, you've made a good save... it sounds like either the roots had begun to rot, or the roots had not grown and the bulb had put its energy into blooming instead of root production. The bulb needs some TLC at this point. It needs to grow new leaves and recharge. Give it as much sun as you can, and allow the soil to dry out between waterings. I hope this helps... without actually seeing the bulb, I'm guessing at everything... but from your description, it sounds like the bulb is simply depleted and needs your care to recharge its energy reserves. It will plump back up in time, and new leaves will grow. If you don't already have rooting hormone powder or Captan anti-fungal powder, I would suggest grabbing them from your local garden center... they will come in handy if you plan on growing and re-blooming Hippeastrum bulbs! Good luck... and if we can be of further help, don't hesitate to ask!...See Moresick bulb from sale 2 weeks ago
Comments (1)Don't panic... it can possibly be saved... if the basal plate isn't damaged! It appears to be one of two things... either rot/fungus or a bad case of microscopic tarsonemid mites. The shrinkage is normal if the bulb has just finished blooming... a summer of good care will fatten it up. The papery brown husk is actually dead outer layers of the bulb, and can actually be peeled away with no harm to the bulb. I'm betting it's a case of rot from poor medium and too much moisture. Pull the bulb out of its medium and look at the roots... are they white and plump? Or are they brown and mushy? The latter is rot. Hippeastrum bulbs are very succeptable to rot from staying too moist at the roots for too long. They require a really fast-draining medium. They also like to dry out in between waterings. When I buy a bulb in a kit, I immediately deep six the soil that comes with it, and pot up the bulb in my own rather gritty mix. I use unglazed clay pots that breathe and allow salts and harmful mineral amounts to leach through the porous material. After I pot up a bulb, I thoroughly water it until water runs out the drainage holes of the pot... from then on, I bottom water only, allowing the water to wick up into the pot at the root level, and I never allow the pot to stand in water for more than a couple of hours or so... I only top water about once a month, and then I use copious amounts of plain, un-softened water to leach out any harmful salt buildup. To cure the rot... you will need to do surgery on your bulb. Remove it from its pot, and with a clean, sharp knife remove any rotten roots. The basal plate is the plate-like part above the roots and below the actual bulb. If this is mushy, dump the bulb. If it appears ok, peel back a layer or two of of the "onion" skin and look for healthy tissue... if the rot is only on one side, cut the rot out completely, taking care to avoid hurting the basal plate. Once you have removed all the rotten tissue, dust the bulb with Captan or an anti-fungal for ornamental plants. Cinnamon will work, but it tends to inhibit root development, so only use it on the bulb part. Dust or paint the root area with a rooting hormone, and set the bulb aside for a day or two to dry a bit. When re-potting, use a very well-draining medium that will dry out fairly fast... if the rot was only on one side, plant the bulb with that part above the soil... try to make basal plate-to-soil contact so new roots will develop. Avoid watering until the medium is dry at the root level. There is a good recipe for homemade mix over at the Container Gardening Forum... it's been posted by a gardener called "tapla". His recipe is very much like a bonsai mix, and drains very nicely. I hope the above helps you to some extent. It would be helpful if you post a photo of your unearthed bulb so we can see the root area... then we could determine if the bulb is worth saving....See MoreRelated Professionals
Waunakee Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · Mount Wilson Landscape Architects & Landscape Designers · Aurora Landscape Contractors · Anderson Landscape Contractors · Dunwoody Landscape Contractors · Fair Lawn Landscape Contractors · Haverhill Landscape Contractors · Lynn Landscape Contractors · Merced Landscape Contractors · Palos Verdes Estates Landscape Contractors · Peoria Landscape Contractors · Ridgewood Landscape Contractors · South Hackensack Landscape Contractors · Palos Hills Landscape Contractors · Silver Firs Landscape Contractors- 4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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- 4 years agolast modified: 4 years agonewhostalady Z6 ON, Canada thanked Northern Gardener (3b west central MN)
- 4 years agonewhostalady Z6 ON, Canada thanked Northern Gardener (3b west central MN)
- 4 years agonewhostalady Z6 ON, Canada thanked Northern Gardener (3b west central MN)
- 4 years agonewhostalady Z6 ON, Canada thanked Northern Gardener (3b west central MN)
- 4 years ago
- 4 years agolast modified: 4 years agonewhostalady Z6 ON, Canada thanked Northern Gardener (3b west central MN)
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- 3 years agonewhostalady Z6 ON, Canada thanked Brian Sakamoto (10a, CA, USA)
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