Hoya Carnose Leaves Brown Micro Spots
Kay Alm
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
Featured Answer
Comments (19)
Kay Alm
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Help with Dwarf Meyer Lemon Tree - Brown spots on leaves
Comments (3)Thank you! I did fertilize it with an slow release organic all-purpose fertilizer (10% nitrogen, 2% phosphate, 8% potash, 1.8% calcium, 3% sulfur) when I first repotted it so, so maybe it's hitting the tree now? I was worried that the cause was fungal, overwatering (although I've been very good about not "overloving" my tree) or even some nutrient deficiency/imbalance. Would it be better to leave it be (let the existing fertilizer leach out) or should I "treat" with a citrus fertilizer? Thanks, again, for your advice!...See Moreblack spots on hoya leaves
Comments (5)I took off all leaves that had even one spot on them. They were pretty much all at soil level. Then I just made sure to let it dry thouroughly. I might have sprayed the base of the flants with a fungicide, but I can't remember now. I don't think I did. Hopefully it won't happen to you, or if it does, you'll catch it sooner. My plant is doing well now though....See MorePlease help--spots on my Hoya tsungii
Comments (7)Thank you all. To tell the truth, though I am sorry for harming the plant, I am relieved to know that it is sunburn and not some horrible disease that will kill the plant. It is hanging from east-facing eaves, a foot or two from the white stucco wall of the house, and only gets morning sun. Of course, it gets more sun in this season than in others. The long shoots it puts out have nowhere to go, so they hang down. Would it do better if I let it climb up a tree (not that I have many candidates for that job, either)? Will it climb up a tree? I appreciate all the comments....See Morediagnose and treat brown spots and falling leaves on fiddle leaf fig
Comments (7)It looks like the larger of the leaves is mostly mechanical injury. You can see witness marks where the large leaf was folded, which caused the compromised veins which limited water/ nutrient flow leading to the necrotic spots, though over-watering can't be ruled out entirely as the cause of some of the other lesions, especially in the smaller leaf. It's unlikely it's a bacterial infection. Bacterial infections are usually moist and limited in their spread by venation (veins). The image of the smaller leaf doesn't show clearly if the lesion is bounded by venation, but bacterial infections aren't that common. I read up a bit and think it could be bacteria or fungal infection. So far I’ve sprayed it with copper fungicide spray and watered with a root support treatment. And cut off most of the leaves with the spots. I don't know what's meant by a root support treatment. But the efforts were likely unnecessary or aimed in the wrong direction. Leaf loss could easily be due to the reduction in the light load as we approach the dark days of winter, or could have been caused by over-watering. Watering is an important skill. If you're following the oft repeated advice to water when the top inch or two of the soil is dry, then it's highly probable you're over-watering .... unless your pot is less than 5" deep. More important is what moisture levels are deep in the pot, at the bottom. To monitor moisture levels there, a "tell" is very useful and much more informative than a digital device (finger) or a cheap water meter. The idea is to insert the "tell" and read what the tip tells you moisture levels are at the pots bottom. See more below. If you can water correctly (so you're flushing the soil when you water) and effectively control moisture levels, and are fertilizing appropriately, the 2 remaining issues would be light levels and temperature. The plant needs lots of light and, ideally, wants to be grown in the 68-78* range. If you wonder about fertilizing, please ask. It's very important that containerized plants are provided with appropriate nutrition, as the nutrients are essential for keeping the plant's systems orderly and they serve as the building blocks from which the plant creates its living parts. You might find this piece I wrote about Long Term Care of Ficus in Containers helpful. Using a 'tell' Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small effort. Plants make and store their own energy source – photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that terrestrial plants need plenty of air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough air to support the kind of root health most growers would like to see; and, a healthy root system is a prerequisite to a healthy plant. Watering in small sips leads to avoid over-watering leads to a residual build-up of dissolved solids (salts) in the soil from tapwater and fertilizer solutions, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water – so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma. It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we water a very important factor. In many cases, we can judge whether or not a planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay, or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water. Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential. Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'. One of the most reliable methods of checking a planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm) would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom. Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue. Questions?...See Morefloral_uk z.8/9 SW UK
4 years agoKay Alm
4 years agoDenise
4 years agoDayna Moore
4 years agosillappeal
4 years agoPepeuve Garcia
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoKarenS, NYC
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoPepeuve Garcia
3 years agoKarenS, NYC
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoPepeuve Garcia
3 years agoKarenS, NYC
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoPepeuve Garcia
3 years agoKarenS, NYC
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoPepeuve Garcia
3 years agoPepeuve Garcia
3 years agoPepeuve Garcia
3 years ago
Related Stories
GARDENING GUIDESHow to Fix Bare and Yellow Lawn Spots
Restore your turf’s good looks by reseeding unsightly patches
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGN12 Items Worth a Spot on Your Kitchen Counter
Keep these useful tools and accessories out in the open to maintain high function without spoiling the view
Full StoryHOUSEKEEPINGOut, Darn Spot! Tips for Removing Carpet Stains
Know the right solutions and when to use them to prevent stains from pets, soda, chocolate, blood and more
Full StoryKITCHEN DESIGNHow to Mix Metal Finishes in the Kitchen
Leave matchy-matchy to the catalogs and let your kitchen's personality shine with a mix of metals for hardware and fixtures
Full StoryWALL TREATMENTSPersonal Spaces: 11 Inventive Ways With Wallpaper
See the great wallpapered rooms our photographers spotted in Houzzers’ homes from coast to coast in the U.S.
Full StoryKITCHEN STORAGE13 Popular Kitchen Storage Ideas and What They Cost
Corner drawers, appliance garages, platter storage and in-counter knife slots are a few details you may not want to leave out
Full StoryFALL GARDENING7 Reasons Not to Clean Up Your Fall Garden
Before you pluck and rake, consider wildlife, the health of your plants and your own right to relax
Full StoryFRUIT TREESHow to Grow Your Own Persimmons
Sturdy and easy to care for, these trees offer bright fruit through winter — and keeping them in bounds is no sweat
Full StoryBEFORE AND AFTERSModern Function and Simplicity in an Updated 1970s Kitchen
Goodbye to retro appliances and wasted space. Hello to better traffic flow and fresh new everything
Full StoryTHE HARDWORKING HOMEWhere to Put the Laundry Room
The Hardworking Home: We weigh the pros and cons of washing your clothes in the basement, kitchen, bathroom and more
Full StoryMore Discussions
April Lee