BlueStar 36" Range-only works with gas pipes flushed to the wall
Beeg R
4 years ago
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chispa
4 years agolive_wire_oak
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Need advice about BlueStar 30' Gas Wall Oven and cooktop selectio
Comments (5)My wife and I are renovating a 700 sq. ft. house. We're thinking of a 24" rangetop and a 24" wall oven. In the Washington DC area the BS deealers are an apppliance store and one kitchen designer who doesn't stock anything. Nobody has an oven. We even tried to get a salesman to give us names of customers so we could ask to look at their's but he wouldn't do it. The factory in Reading PA has a showroom with a 30" oven but it's not connected. If you want to talk to them ask for Monique. She's honest and helpful. I'm looking forward to hot broiler to make black and blue steaks with. I've never seen a salamander but it looks so easy to change the rack position. Oven shelves don't give you such a good choice of heights. If I bought their high splash with a shelf it would perch there nicely without using up counter space and my hood may catch the smoke. It bothers me about wall ovens that you can't vent them when you broil. With an electric oven you have to do it with the door open and a lot of greasy smoke goes into the room. Somebody here told me that with these ovens you close the door to broil. I don't know if that improves the smoke or not. I can't comment on char broilers but all I can think of is my house filling up with smoke. I guess you can see what my obsession is. I'll be waiting to see if you get some info here....See More36" RNB BlueStar Installation Instructions
Comments (9)Yes, the gas supply on the 36" RNB is on the left (looking from front) BUT your connection for the flex and shutoff should be within 3" of the floor. I brought my 3/4" supply pipe up from below since we have a raised foundation, but anywhere on the back wall below 3" will work also. I put the shutoff and flex connector just above floor level, and used the large appliance flex, I believe 5/8"? of about 30" length so it could be slid into place. The actual stub on the range is a 1/2" NPT male thread, so you will need a fitting to adapt to the flared flex connector. The 110v electrical receptacle needs to be in that 3" space as well. This post was edited by ctycdm on Sun, Apr 14, 13 at 14:42...See MoreWolf DF vs. Thermador Pro Grand DF vs. Miele DF vs. BlueStar ranges
Comments (26)Sorry, just took a look at this thread again and noticed your question...by the time I got to Miele, I had decided on induction, so I didn't give the Miele an actual test drive. I did give it a pretty thorough inspection at the Miele place, though, and thought it was a very sexy range -- and the performance seemed very similar to the Wolf dual fuel. I say that b/c the Miele also has the stacked burners, which I really liked, but the BTUs are higher than Wolf (which top out at around 16k, I believe -- Miele was closer to 20k or so -- I can't quite remember). The Miele ovens on the 48" range were very nice -- the smaller one is a speed oven, and the bigger one is a regular convection. The speed oven wasn't a big plus for me personally, since I really wanted a steam oven as a second oven, but there are people on this forum who love their speed ovens. One thing I really liked about the Miele oven, which Wolf doesn't have, is the burst of steam option, which is great for baking (you can program up to 3 bursts of steam for up to 6 min. each during cooking). I didn't care that much about the MasterChef options on Miele, but again, others love these. At any rate, the Miele seemed very similar to the Wolf, I liked the steam option on the oven better and liked the Miele burners better (also, if you're interested in a grill, theirs was excellent and seemed very similar to the Wolf, which I think is the best in the business). If I had stuck with a range, I would have been very tempted by the Miele....See MoreAnyone with a BlueStar 36 inch RCS Sealed Burner Range?
Comments (32)The glowbar igniters are a really old and proven technology. You'll find it in lots of gas appliances (e.g. water heater, furnace, ovens, ...) as they are so safe. Whenever the thermostat calls for heat, it turns on the igniter. As a first approximation, a glowbar igniter is the same thing as an incandescent light bulb without the protective glass shell. It draws a couple of hundred watts and uses that to produce heat. Right next to the glowbar is a temperature activated gas valve. As long as no heat it produced (i.e. glowbar doesn't call for heat or glowbar is defective), no gas flows. This is very safe. But if the valve detects sufficient amounts of heat, it opens and gas flows over the glowbar and ignites. This is damn simple and there is very little that can fail catastrophically. So, it is inherently a safer design than using click igniters. Those are good for the stove top where a person can supervise the burners. But the oven has to work even when it cycles on/off without human intervention. The downside, of course, is that this glowbar behaves just like an incandescent bulb. Some bulbs live for decades, most live for a couple of years, and a small number dies within months. Same is true for glowbars. Nothing much you can do about it. Fortunately, they are cheap and standardized components. Every appliance manufacturer buys from the same factory. And yes, gas ovens always cycle on/off completely. There generally isn't a great way to modulate heat output. This is a noteworthy difference when compared to electric ovens, which frequently can keep constant temperatures much more easily. For many dishes, that doesn't actually matter. But there are some that do in fact cook much better in an electric oven. And I guess the reverse is true too....See MoreM
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