I'm glad he liked it! One caution about reducing the opening of the archway to the LR...to eliminate the need for filler b/w the refrigerator and wall, the doors have to stick out into the doorway so they will be able to open fully. What size refrigerator did you buy? I put in a 30" wide, standard-depth refrigerator b/c in spaces like this a narrower but deeper refrigerator usually works best. Normally, I recommend sizing for a 36" refrigerator, but you have limited space so you need to make the most of what you have! Note that I also recessed the refrigerator into the wall behind it a few inches...you may or may not be able to do that (it depends on what is in that wall and whether it can be moved). This recessing helps to minimize the impact of the refrigerator sticking out into the room as well as makes it look closer to counter-depth and built-in. BTW...I don't know if you noticed, but there's a 3/4" finished end panel on the non-wall side of the refrigerator...this is to make it look more "built-in" and to provide support for the full-depth cabinet over the refrigerator (full-depth is 24"). If it turns out you have yet another 3/4", I recommend putting a finished end panel on both sides of the refrigerator. Also note there is an end panel b/w the 9" filler pullouts and range. This end panel is so there's something to attach the filler pullouts to. Filler pullouts generally are a better use of space than cabinets of the same width b/c filler pullouts do not have walls or face frames. They attach to the sides of the cabinets on either side of the pullout. This can net you anywhere from an inch to 3" or more of additional space (depending on the width of your cabinet's walls and whether you have a face frame and whether they're inset.) If you are using frameless cabinets with 1/2" walls, then you would probably not gain much in this case b/c of the need to "add" a wall on the range side. But, if you have framed cabinets, I would stick w/a filler pullout. Here's an older thread that talks about filler pullouts: Thread: Rev-A-Shelf Spice Racks for Fillers -- Have you seen these!! Here is a link that might be useful: Rev-A-Shelf Filler Pull-Outs - Base

I like the idea of playing with color. I actually like the red and white but I think the red should be on the bottom. For now, I would simply paint the cabinets a color you and DH both like. A single color or two-tone. I also noticed the floor as the problem instead of the cabinets themselves. However, I wouldn't want to change out the floors if a major kitchen remodel might be a future possibility. It is possible that the right choice of cabinet/wall colors might make the flooring visually recede so it's less "jump in your face", especially if you use a couple floor rugs or a runner. Like Rebunky, the long walk from fridge to sink jumped out at me. But you are also blessed with a nice, long stretch of prep counter. I really think that people should live in a home for awhile before planning a major remodeling project. This way, you can identify what works for you in the kitchen and what doesn't. Sure, it's more of a hassle to remodel when you're living there but I think people tend to end up with a better finished project after they have lived with a space for awhile. Congrats on the new home! Enjoy.

Yeah, I know it’s a tall order to come up with something that accomplishes what I want but I figured I'd see if others on Houzz had some ideas. Both sectionals that I'm considering are pretty spacious. The first one is 144” x 79” and the other is 120” x 110.” msteezzy - here’s a picture of the space you asked about.

I always try to cite the NKBA guidelines, because they are standard for a functional kitchen, and it's better to know all the rules, before we start to bend them. ;) In my own kitchen, on two sides I have narrower aisles than recommended, but it works OK for my layout. My DW opens into a long aisle, not against the island, and the island overlaps the fridge and range by 50% each, so there is step-back space in front of each appliance. Behind the seating I have base cabinets and uppers, providing more space at shoulder height than vertical elements would. My DW is in the prep space between the sink and range, but due to an entry on the other side of the sink, that couldn't be changed. One of the advantages to an island is a second egress--if someone is blocking a path on one side, another person can go around. For instance, if two people are sitting at your island on the long side, anyone entering from the back door can cut through the work aisles, rather than try to squeeze by the second seat. Of course, then you have someone cutting through the work zones, but that might not happen often, if ever.