Auntjen -- thanks! I do hope you'll try some GG. Did you see my comments/directions about it above? I hope they help. Moonkat -- I'm delighted you showed up! I thought of you and Nanny often while doing this. Your ceiling and her walls were inspiration for this project. I'm very glad I stuck with it, but I wish I'd just done the BB wallpaper to begin with. It turned out much better than I expected, I think largely because of turning the railing shiny black. That made a huge difference. Glad I could inspire you back and can't wait to see what you do. I gave some instructions above and hope they help. Artlover -- yes she is a Mucha above the stairs. The plexiglas "sg" window over the door is *not* mounted. Got any ideas how to mount it? Chloe's mom -- I love what you did with the $5 clearance wallpaper! It looks just amazing. That wallpaper was perfect. The answer to your q. over there is yes, a coat of good paint will help your beadboard wallpaper be tougher against bumps and bangs. I'll be watching to see what you do with Vivian's room. Mistyhayes -- I hear you; wood is easier to upkeep than white paint. What if you paint your woodwork and the plant shelves shiny black? I put several coats of polyurethane over my railings, and the shiny black, with the satin white, and the flat beige looks just amazing in person. I took the railings and that little bookcase into the garage on a plastic tarp w the car in the driveway, roughed them up just a little with sandpaper and spray painted them black. Misty, it could look amazing if you scrap the curtains and blinds and do GG in there. It's just tracing lines and filling in color - you can do it! Plus you'd get a lot more light in. You can make the GG so you keep your privacy, or leave clear places where you can look out. I can see out my big window, but from outside you just really can't see in well. Part of the reason for that might be because the GG is angled, leaning? Dunno, but I retained the light and view, and gained privacy. No curtains/blinds to wash, hooray! You can go snoop the web for designs you like. Then you can make them on your computer and have Staples/etc. print them, or you could draw them yourself on paper full size. Then pick your fave colors. You will enjoy doing yours on plexi, rather than directly on the window. Your choice, but you can work the plexi on your table, but the windows will have to be done on your feet/ladder. Gallery Glass For those of you wanting to do GG, I recommend the plexi. You can get it at Lowes and they will cut it whatever size you want. It comes 72" x 36". You don't have to worry about being cut or accidentally breaking your window, and it's very lightweight. Or, just mess around with the clings, and that's a great way to get started, and you can cover your entire window with them if you like. The dragonfly window was part clings, and part done on the real window. I cemented the clings in with paint onto it's borders. I did put jewels on my windows. Mostly I used the clear marbles you get at Michaels, but I also found some plastic jewels with no silvering on the back, and I love those. These add an extra dimension and more believability, I think. But they're a bit heavy for on clings.

Leave it. In Ma. we call it character.You got an old house, thats small stuff. From the sounds of it you got bigger fish to fry.But if you're anal , like myself, rip it down and start over.Carpenters don't use a lot of "filler"

@SJ McCarthy I appreciate your response however... Stringers are actually on the outside of a stairwell that is open on one end. My stairs are sandwiched - that is not open on either end - between walls so the sides are called skirt boards. It isn’t a matter of semantics given location matters. I would encourage you to re-read my original post as you have made some very inaccurate assumptions, heavily deviated from the intent of my original post, exaggerated the work required, and have also not directly addressed my questions. Namely: 1. This project was cosmetic meaning there were no structural alterations. It seems you may be unfamiliar with how the lip of existing stair treads that remain in-place are adjusted to receive hardwood treads and risers right atop to preserve the minimal costmetic nature of the “renovation“. Regardless, references to code are therefore entirely irrelevant. This is a quality/ craftsmanship issue from an aesthetic perspective! 2. I get that the average homeowner may not be the most informed, although NOT everyone is so “green” to pay upfront giving a contractor no incentive to do the job in which they were hired to complete. 3. Similarly, one shouldn’t assume that the ‘big boys’ always perform as they are contracted. Unfortunately, in my case, Class A contractors who are insured and bonded with decades of experience aren’t immune to performing subpar work nor subcontracting out to those who perform subpar work. Thankfully, I had hours of video footage to substantiate what was/was not done! With all of this said, I am seeking insight into how this - filling shallow holes/depressions should be flushed out with skirt boards - NOT who should be hired to do the work. If you cannot answer, that is fine although I would appreciate responses to my actual questions. Note: 1. It is NOT necessary to replace skirt boards therefore all of the extra mentioned is beyond overkill, and, quite frankly, off topic. 2. This inquiry is limited to flushing out depressions and filling in boundaries between wood plugs and skirt boards.

Thanks for posting a full photo of your hallway. You are correct. It is too narrow for a console. Art, yes. A console, no. But the impact of Board and Batten would just be lost in that space, too. I would purchase, instead, a pretty runner to draw the eye down the hallway to a larger destination.