I think I am definitely sold on getting rid of the pony walls, moving the DW to the end of the run and using an OTR microwave. I actually have new HVAC being installed this month so I'm going to ask the installers when they're here what the implications of moving the return vent over a couple of feet are. I'd lose an outlet that I never use anyway, but otherwise I don't think it'd cause any problems. I don't really want to go with nonstandard-sized appliances. They cost more than the bigger ones and there are lots of townhouses/condos in this area with similar-sized kitchens, and all of them have standard-sized appliances - I don't want to be "that weird house with the odd-sized fridge" or whatever, when it comes to resale. Plus my fridge is actually new and I like it very much. Here is my latest and greatest U-shaped variation: I'm trying to depict having the fridge built with the 2 full-height panels on either side and the fridge-depth cabinet up above, in case that isn't clear from the drawing. The sink isn't as off-center as I thought it would be, and as someone upthread pointed out, it was off-center in the original drawing anyway because my window placement was a bit off. It looks like the faucet would only be about 2" to the right of where it is now. I don't really care for the integrated drainboard sink, sorry. I actually wish I could get rid of the drainboard entirely but there always seems to be one random frying pan or knife or something that has to be hand-washed. I would do a small trash pullout in the sink cabinet, if I did one at all. I might not. Something about the idea of having a trash can in a cabinet skeeves me out a bit. Latest galley: The more I look at it the more I think I might prefer going with the galley version and nixing the corner issue entirely. Technically it gives me a bit more lower storage (including the pantry pullout in that), but a bit less upper storage. But like I said before my uppers aren't full now anyway. It has 15" less countertop frontage, but 10 sq ft less space overall... the extra sq ft loss mainly coming from corners.

Ok... here's where we're at! We had 1/2 of the countertop come out GREAT. We scribed the side and back of it, and it is darn near perfect. The short side did not come out so well. To make a long story short, we cut our long side a tad too short on our final scribe, so we took out our extra we had planned for squaring up with the adjacent side. So, now we have a 1/4 gap at the back of the backsplash. It is tight in the corner, then it veers out to 1/4 gap withing 4 feet, then it ends at our range. So, should we just caulk that? I was so heartbroken to see that gap - the other side turned out sooo nice. At least the good side is the important side (sink and DW). The gap side will be near the range, and I can put a pitcher of cooking utensils there to cover it up. Or... should we do the whole thing again??? (It took us all day, and we still haven't done the sink.) Opinions?? Any ideas on how we could "fix" this?

When you signed off on the cabinet order, was the order placed right away or did it wait until the molding price came in? I bet you are being penalized for placing a separate small order and they may have a minimum shipping charge that you would not have had to pay if the molding had been ordered at the same time. Do not mention it until you get an answer, but if yes, it is more for that reason, you should let them know you expect they will take care of this without penalty to you and speak with a manager if necessary. They should not have placed your order until it was complete if it would cost you more to do wo without discussing it with you. If they didn't, you should not have to abosrb the cost. If you are still within the time when you can cancel the entire order with minimal/no loss, you might nicely inquire if that is possible while you work this out, and then place the order again with everything included. Before you say anyththing else you might want inquire if this is the case. The fact that the labor for the molding was included in the original contract clearly indicates that they were aware that you wanted it. And, yes, I think molding makes a huge difference in the finished look of the kitchen even if it is a very simple molding. The one exception might be a galley type kitchen or a contemporary style. JMHO. Unless DH is exceptional, most men don't place anywhere near as much importance on aesthetics as you would, but chances are when you go to sell, the molding will pay for itself. Sue

Robbcs3, the circular gouges were caused by spinning the knob. The knob has a very small rectangular base in the vertical direction. There is very little room on the base outside the limits of the screw hole, so drilling the correct hole size is critical. Also, after I looked at one, the base actually has a tit I assume to bite into the door preventing any future movement. He must have used his power driver to attach. I could understand one door, but to have 5 is extremely negligent. Another question. As stated above my cabs are frameless thus requiring a furring strip at the top of the cab for attachment of the crown. What is the preferred orientation of this strip on wall cabinets (side/ends with no doors) that do not go all the way to the ceiling? I was thinking if it was inset a 1/16 inside the wall line no seam could be seen when looking up or set it flush with the wall so the seam would be in line with the cab wall? Also, does an inside corner dictate the positioning of the furring strip or can it be placed in either position aforementioned?