mjgeby, I know exactly what you're talking about. Sometimes with plants that tend to be a bit top-heavy/tippy, the grower will put a two-inch thick cement slab on top of the soil to keep the plant in place. Sometimes there are pebbles/rockes mixed in the cement to make it look prettier. The plant is therefore basically "cemented" into the pot----there is no way to properly gauge moisture levels of the soil, and you really can't tell if the rootss are too big for the pot (because you can't take the plant out of the pot to see the rootball). My solution: wrap a rag around the cement and wack at it with a hammer until it breaks up (best to wear safty glass for this). Once you bust away the cement, you can slide the rootball out of the pot to see if it needs a bigger pot. If not, put it back in the same pot----you may need to put some loose rocks on the soil to keep the top-heavy plant from tipping over. At least with loose rocks you can remove them when needed to check soil!

Futility...Your plant is a Yucca, not Dracaena Marginata. Yucca's should be grown as succulents. 5'/five-feet from an east window is not sufficient. Yucca's are sun lovers, prefer south or west exporsure. I didn't read all replies, so maybe this was mentioned. Instead of sticking your finger in the soil, use a long stake, or lift pot for weight to test soil for moisture. The top might feel dry, but deeper down, nearest the roots, water can linger. Yucca's are slow-growing therefore require little fertilizer. Two-Three times a year will suffice. Yuccas also prefer cooler temps. Some varieties more than others. So, please keep your Yucca in a room that's not over 70F degrees. Pic 1...your Yucca is very healthy and green. PS: Don't trust labels. Sometimes, the wrong label is placed in a plant, but more often than not, customers remove a tag to read care instructions, than place in a different plant. I used to work at HD; customers placed tags in different pots often. Toni

I did see this post which is so old. I live in zone 9 in Houston. I have your particular plant outside in my garden in the ground. We had a horrible freeze last year & the year before 12 degrees last winter. This particular drac always comes back from the roots. Came back this year & the year before. I don't know about constant really low temps, but, knowing me, I would try, especially not liking houseplants. You could try this with a cutting. Also the areca palm was planted next to my house and withstood many freezing winters. Information out is that this palm needs to be in the house. I realize it was planted right next to the house. We finally had to dig it out since it continued to grow sideways creating more and more growth. Also cordylines/ti plants always come back just like the drac. Tropical growers need to know this experience. Happy growing. Carol

Dracaena adapt well to where they are placed. They can adapt to low, medium and somewhat higher light (no direct sun). It takes a few weeks once you move it for it to adapt to it's new home. There is no reason a baby cane shouldn't stand up on it's own - it sounds to me like too much water or too much light (or both). Dracaenas don't like to be pampered. One reason they have continued to be so popular for so many years is because they can handle neglect (to a degree!). They do drink more water when they are actively growing. When they are dormant - VERY little water.