Whole house needs work!!! Where do I start.
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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- 4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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New Windows for Whole House - Where do we start?
Comments (9)This is a copy/paste since the same question keeps coming up. This info relates to both the people who make the window and the people who install your windows. I have been answering the same question over and over again on Home Improvement web-sites, which window is the best. Most window buyers have no idea how to rate a window company. Rating windows is not as easy as saying one is better than the other one. Consider these things when rating windows: Looks- which window looks the best to you the owner. Does the window look good viewed from both the inside and the outside? Function- does the window meet your needs? Do you want the sashes to tilt in for easy cleaning? Options- does the window company offer the options that you need? How about colors, windows are now sold in several different color both on the inside and the outside. Window screen are now available with several different options. Maintenance- do you want a window that is easy to clean and does not require any painting or staining? Warranty- how long is the warranty that they offer? Will the company be around to honor the warranty? Does the warranty cover labor? Is the warranty pro-rated? Do you have to buy replacement parts at an inflated price? NFRC ratings- Do you care about how good the glass is? Do you understand the benefits of triple pane glass? Do you know the differences between the different spacers? Do you know about Argon gas or Kyrpton Gas? Customer service- will the company handle your window issues in a timely manner. If one of your sashes (glass) breaks how long will it take to get you a new one. You should check the BBB reports, and several of the other on-line complaint databases to get a feel for what people are saying about a company. Good luck with your project!...See MoreI just bought a new home, lawn is in need, where to start?
Comments (18)I'm going to sidestep the cultivar discussion and get back to lawn care in general. You do not need to aerate every year...or ever. You can if you want to, and sometimes there is a good reason to, but many high quality lawns are never aerated. Some lawns need more water to stay alive than others, but all lawns (with just a few exceptions that don't pertain to your situation) require about the same amount of water to look good and stay healthy. On a mature lawn fertilizer is not needed until May. If you fertilize in February or March (like the TV commercials will encourage you to do), that will encourage over growth of the grass once it comes out of winter dormancy. The grass will use up much more of the stored resources than it needs to use and, by May, leave the grass looking very weak. Normal grass will come out of winter dormancy with a vengeance. It will grow so fast you might need to mow 2x per week to keep it down. If you fertilize early you might need to mow it 3x to 4x per week. The point is it will be fine until May with no fertilizer. The reasons not to seed in the spring are, as mentioned above, spring seeded grass is weak and often cannot take summer heat stress. By July the new grass will have died and been replaced by crabgrass. That is not the end of the world but it does seem like a waste of time, effort, and money. Also spring is the time when weed seeds, like crabgrass, are germinating. When you water 3x per day to germinate the new grass seed, the weed seeds love that and will germinate at the same time. The weeds are more aggressive and will dominate and crowd out the new grass seed. So fall is the best time to sow new cool weather seeds. Cool weather seeds can make it through a normal winter and toughen up the roots for the next summer; and the spring/summer weeds are not germinating in the fall. Here's something I put together a few years ago to help new lawn owners. Hope it helps you. Basics of Lawn Care After reading numerous books and magazines on lawn care, caring for lawns at nine houses in my life, and reading numerous forums where real people write in to discuss their successes and failures, I have decided to side with the real people and dispense with the book and magazine authors. I don't know what star their planet rotates around but it's not mine. With that in mind, here is the collected wisdom of the Internet savvy homeowners and lawn care professionals summarized in a few words. If you follow the advice here you will have conquered at least 50% of all lawn problems. Once you have these three elements mastered, then you can worry about weeds (if you have any), dog spots, and striping your lawn. But if you are not doing these three things, they will be the first three things suggested for you to correct. 1. Watering Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an inch in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. Do not spread this out and water for 10 minutes every day. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. If that does not work, then you might have to water more than once per week during the summer's hottest period. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. You will have to learn to judge when to water your own lawn. If you live in El Paso your watering will be different than if you live in Vermont. Adjust your watering to your type of grass, temperature, humidity, wind, and soil type. It is worth noting that this technique is used successfully by professionals in Phoenix, so...just sayin.' The other factors make a difference. If you normally water 1 inch per week and you get 1/2 inch of rain, then adjust and water only 1/2 inch that week. 2. Mowing Every week mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses will become the most dense when they are mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. In fact there are special mowers that can mow these grasses down to 1/16 inch. Dense grass shades out weeds, keeps the soil cooler, and uses less water than thin grass. Tall grass can feed the deep roots you developed in #1 above. Tall grass does not grow faster than short grass nor does it look shaggy sooner. Once all your grass is at the same height, tall grass just looks plush. 3. Fertilizing Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Follow the directions on the bag and do not overdo it (unless you use organics in which case you may overdo it without fear of hurting anything). At this point you do not have to worry about weed and feed products - remember at this point you are just trying to grow grass, not perfect it. Besides once you are doing these three things correctly, your weed problems should go away without herbicide....See MoreDo whole-house air purifiers work?
Comments (11)Well starting with a simple but most often overlooked "other than that",a proper trap. Within 6" to 1' of leaving drip pan the 3/4tr primary line often has an inverted T open at top to alow adding algacide or blowing out line. That access opening is better capped. The primary line is often not trapped and run's horizonally to dump into a sewer line or dedicated condensate line. It's best to have line trapped as near pan as pratical or line to emmediatly drop 6+ inches then turn horizonally into a running trap. Secoundary/emergency line is often untrapped,although it's best equally trapped as primary plus have means of being routinly charged. Alternatly,to reduce installation cost and ongoing maintainance,secoundary can be of sufficent leingth to dampen suction through it. Regardless how condensate drainage is handled,preventing reverse air flow through lines is desiriable. In a nutshell,air drawn in through line can distrurb water surface causing "spitting"droplets to be picked up and blown into discharge ducts. The condition is exacerbated if return is restrictive ( a condition Mr Heard and Mr Said both agree is very common). Competent techs will check out this"other than that"along with others to insure condensate drain's rather than blowing into discharge ducts....See MoreFirst time buyer and the whole place needs paint. Where do I begin?
Comments (1)Would be comfortable with a white paint? :) If you ca, go with SW...if you can go higher, then BM and there is another brand that costs more than BM but honestly BM is very good. I think "mid tier" is SW but I would recommend this over the standard Lowes or Home Depot brand. We have spent thousands of dollars painting(because we have a special needs child who loves using our walls like napkins) and SW for the quality and price have not let us down yet. We did a lot of work in our home too and it was a new construction tract build. All of the contractors in MD were charging a coupe of thousand for like every type of job and we were like forget that, we can do it ourselves. I will say it was challenging but again, we have a special needs child. With you and your wife, it may be TON easier than it was for us. In other words, if we can do it, y'all can too! ;)...See MoreRelated Professionals
Vineyard Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Jacksonville Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Amarillo General Contractors · Lighthouse Point General Contractors · Longview General Contractors · Modesto General Contractors · North Lauderdale General Contractors · Knoxville Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · St. Louis Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Culver City Furniture & Accessories · Coshocton General Contractors · Exeter General Contractors · Medway General Contractors · South Farmingdale Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Aurora Window Treatments- 4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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Bonnie RileyOriginal Author