The sink is 20 wide by 18 deep and 35 off the floor to the top of the marble. The cutout for the under mount is 12 3/4 x 9 3/4. I got the polished nickel console leg kit from Signature Hardware online. You cut the pipes to make the width and depth fit your application. The faucet is Porcher Reprise. I got them cheap as the line was discontinued but we used them years earlier in the upstairs bath and I wanted it all to match and look like it was all done at once. I had the marble top made, fitting an inexpensive under mount sink. I think the marble cost about $200, the sink was $100, faucets $150. The leg kit was the killer at $500. So yeah it's a $1000 tiny sink when all is said and done. It was an over the top no holds barred jewel for the basement bathroom. It is a very small room (5 x 8) and there is a 36 inch corner shower in it. So I went overboard on the heated marble floor and sink. Doing most of the work myself allowed the extra expense on the sink.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. I ended up getting the Ruvati RVH8400 which is a 'bat-wing' or 'butterfly' style corner sink. After reading some of your comments I was a little worried about water splash when swinging from one bowl to other. But my fabricator installed it in such a way that it left a little 'V' between the two bowls, kind of like in the picture below. He also positioned the faucet so that when it swings, the water goes over the V so that it falls on the stainless steel. So far it has worked quite well and my tenant is very happy with it. The sink finish looks really nice and the bowls are deep. I had bought a Ruvati sink before, and this one is just as good. Here is a link that might be useful: corner sink

When we remodeled, I took a chance on this configuration by Franke. I had always had evenly divided sinks but felt the need for a larger sink (this was 12 years ago and apron front "farmhouse" sinks were not such a big thing as now). I knew what we chose was 'different,' but I love it. The disposal is on the small, shallower sink side (like a prep sink), and the large part is plenty large enough for big pots, cookie sheets, etc. I couldn't decide if I wanted the low grid that sits on the bottom, or the grid that sits on the small ledge several inches below the top of the sink, so I got them both. I actually rarely take either of them out except to clean. Dishes waiting to be washed in the DW or by hand can sit on the top grid without being seen easily from a bit of a distance, pots can sit there to soak, etc. I actually have had many occasions to soak silverware and small items in the small sink with very hot water without using much water. I realize it might not work for everyone, but I quickly got used to it and can't imagine anything else now.

"When you sandwich the sink rim between the heavy counter material and the cabinet side there's zero extra space if the cabinet side tops are all installed level. No possiblity of any space opening in the future.." Good theory, little real-world relevance. First, the sink flange would have to be rabbeted into the cabinet tops perfectly flush. Secondly, tops aren't the exact same thickness throughout and nearly all have to be shimmed somewhat. That means there will be a gap the thickness of the shims between the sink flange and stone bottom. That means an uneven silicone joint and on the recommended slight positive reveal that won't look good. When a sink is pushed against a stone bottom by straps, the gap is tight and consistent no matter what the shims are doing. Furthermore, if the sink ever has to be replaced, it's now much more difficult because the cabinet sides have to be unzipped to get the sink out and reinstalled to get the new sink in. A strapped sink is replaced in little over an hour by backing off two bolts. Using cabinet tops to support sinks is not good practice.