You'll certainly enjoy opening up these two spaces - the flow will be wonderful when entertaining - and the light! I love you current chandelier - very interesting but I'm not a fan of swagging. Either have the electrician move it so it is centered over new designated area for dining table or replace it and add another fixture. Otherwise it will look unbalanced and that would spoil the finished look.

Glad to hear you're using quarter sewn oak - I haven't worked with oak for years but it would seem as though quarter sewn oak but I think it's going to be a trend in 2020.

Will it be weird to have the chandelier not centered with the small windows?

Will your new dining room be 13 x 13 or 14 x 12?

Can you please post photos of the other walls in the dining room?

I can't go in there right now because they are sanding but the wall with the peninsula is having a 12'' over hang making the 14x13 room feel more like a 13x13

You can keep the light centered and just center the table under it. Depending what is on the other walls, the off-centered feeling can be balance by adding something on the opposite end.

You can use a 60-72" round table or if you want a rectangular table, you can buy an extension table that extends up to 84".

I’m worried the kitchen seating will be too close

If you buy a 60" long table, that will give you 48" on each end of the table. That is good. You can get an extension and it will be a touch crowded but acceptable, when you have guests over.

I presume the breakfast bar would not be used at the same time as the dining table?

I leave the light centered on the window, but move the table toward the window and place a buffet along the wall you show pictured above.

A scaled floor plan would be helpful complete with window placement and the current placement of your chandelier.

Do you want or need a buffet in the room?

I have one but I was thinking of getting rid of it since we have the counter for buffet now. I want to prioritize airiness

I have drafted up two potential layouts based on your drawing. You didn't include the measurements for the window placements or the lighting fixture in question so I placed it according to where it looked like it might be. If you give me actual measurements from both walls, I can site it exactly, but both these drawing point to potential issues either way. How were you envisioning positioning your table? It looks like you have a bow window there that could also act as a centering device. Your glass block windows are much less a focal point and in fact could be taken out of the equation with a drapery treatment on that wall that would camouflage their newly off-centered position as created by the counter top over-hang.

By the way, the table placed there at 72 x 42" would only fit 8 maximum and that would be squeezy, so it would be good to know how many people you routinely need to seat before embarking on the search for a new dining table.

Seeing the full floor plan and knowing you don't want a buffet, I recommend a 72" round table. That will feel very balance, accentuate the bay window. You will have to move the chandelier slightly toward the bay window.

You should be able to fit 10 people, 12 if you use banquet chairs.

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I love both of those ideas! I was thinking of a round table first but the ones that expand and get smaller are really expensive. im nervous having a large table when we aren’t entertaining might make the room feel smaller. so then I thought about getting a rectangular 36x72” table and I can out another folding table next to it for when we entertain. I think either way I will need to move the light fixture and ignore the two smaller windows.

I often entertain up to

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/ekedalen-extendable-table-dark-brown-20340758/#pip_product_description

this was the table I was thinking

https://www.westelm.com/m/products/build-your-own-sculptural-glass-3-light-chandelier-h3857/?cm_src=AutoRel

light fixture idea

Your note above did not include the number of people you need to be able to seat. It stopped just before the number.

The big take away though is that your ceiling fixture needs to move no matter what and I'm happy to hear you're prepared to compromise on the symmetry issue with the two small windows.

Re the dimensions of a table, 36" wide will not allow enough width to a) put food on the table or b) squeeze 2 on the end in a pinch. 40" is better and 42" better yet. The other thing that is handy in accommodating additional people is not to have legs at the corners. A pedestal or trestle style is much more accommodating this way.

The light fixture is currently centered between both the small windows and the bay window. I was thinking of having another 72x36 to make a 72'' square when entertaining but is 72'' enough for three people? I usually entertain 10 people on the weekends and 15 during the holidays. Im starting to think its going to be tough to fit more than 10 comfortably.

On the dining room side of the wall, you're adding a bar? Wainscoting or at least wood paneling rather than painted drywall beneath the bar would be a good idea.

Consider adding a corner cabinet w/glass front doors above and solid doors below for use as a "china" cabinet. (unless those are plantation shutters you're going to keep?)

https://www.google.com/search?q=bifold+closet+doors+door&tbm=isch&ved=2ahUKEwiJ2eOn8NTnAhWJ0VMKHQ3xDwEQ2-cCegQIABAA&oq=bifold+closet+doors+door&gs_l=img.3..0i8i30l4.86763.91399..93896...0.0..0.440.2296.16j2j0j1j1......0....1..gws-wiz-img.......0i67j0j0i7i30j0i8i7i30.BcCUaiwyWpQ&ei=F5VIXsnxKomjzwKN4r8I&bih=628&biw=1366 

IF you make the bar the same height as the table (rather than higher - requiring tall/awkward uncomfortable bar stools), sitting at the bar will be much more comfortable -- bonus: you can place a pair of dining room table chairs there until you find a pair of extra chairs that work with your dining room chairs.

If you turn your table parallel to the countertop of the bar, it might fit better than with the narrow end nearer the kitchen.

If you cannot rotate your table ninety degrees and make it centered/fit, there are ways to "move" the overhead light fixture. You build a shallow ( 4" deep ) wood box on the ceiling that covers both where your electrical box now is and where you need it to be and keep the wiring beneath that box.

Still recommend a round table

A round table large enough to seat even 8 people would make it almost impossible to get additional seating in the room. Plus, a 72" round means that people across the table from each other cannot converse because they are simply out of range. (a la banquet tables that usually seat 8). I have included a seating guide go give you an idea. Your idea of two 72"x36" tables has the same liabilities and more if you choose a table with 4 legs at the corners because someone would have to staddle a leg at each "end".

https://www.countrysideamishfurniture.com/blog/entry/the-complete-guide-to-dining-table-seating-capacity

I heartily agree with suezbell who suggests trying all this out for yourself with graph paper and furniture cut outs that are done to scale.