I'm not familiar with that brand of epoxy, but these would fall into the category of "finish that needs to be regularly renewed" Poke around a marina and look for a boat with a teak brightwork and ask how often they need to refresh it. If you are in Tampa, FL, you are going to get a lot of sun. > If you want the new wood look, you must use Smith's Penetrating Epoxy and/or Epifanes Marine Varnish. Sand off the current patina before applying

I obtained an outdoor folding teak dining table that had been stained with a red stain. The table is made of slats; some run horizontal and some vertical. There are a lot of gaps between the slats. I attempted to sand off the layer with the stain. The range of results is considerable. Some have the honey color. A few are grey. Most are shades of red. A few remain quite red. The slats are not all perfectly even in height and some slats are harder to get at for that reason. Also, the stained corners of the sides of the slats are quite apparent. I found it very difficult to sand in between them. If I could disassemble it completely, I might be able to sand every part evenly, but I do not know whether that would get the stain out. Also, as the outer ring of the table is joined with dovetails, I am unsure that I can do that.

Thank you for the lovely throw pillow suggestions! They are beautiful. I think my biggest dilemma is picking the main cushions for the chairs. This is the collection: I am thinking a light tone would be bad, because it would stain more easily. Maybe tan or grey? I like the idea of picking up the blue in the throw pillows, so I wouldn't want that for the main cushions.

Cumaru, like Jatoba, is photosensitive. That means it gets darker as it ages/sees UV/light. The wood will turn orangey brown all by itself. To REDUCE this look, you can work with a FULL water based polyurethane. Oil based (which is cheaper and considered the 'norm' by anyone who is a floor refinisher for more than 10 years) turn ORANGE as they age. Your current floor PROBABLY has an oil based finish on the Cumaru. That means you have orange on orange = REALLY orange. Personally (I like movement and I like RAW looking hardwood...no oil based finishes for me) I would work with either Loba 2K Supra AT (very very tough and NEVER turns yellow) or Bona Traffic HD (the Gold Standard for finishes and NEVER turns orange). If you must stain it, you will have to go DARK. Yes. Dark. A slight stain or a mid-tone stain will not cut the natural wood browns in this floor. You would have to go Jacobean or Espresso or Jet. I would have a large patch (one room) fully sanded so that you get an understanding of the natural colour. See how you feel about a raw look. It will be 3-5 steps LIGHTER than what you see. A clear coat water based poly will allow the floor to look 'raw' and light. Then any 'darkening' will be the natural/normal colour the floor will turn ANYWAY. It will till be lighter and less orange than what you see right now.